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"The phone is a remarkably complex, simple device,
and very rarely ever needs repairs, once you fix them." - Dan/Panther

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#1
Quote from: TelePlay on Today at 02:39:57 PMAnyway, the point I was making about 3-1 Oil is that being 20 weight oil it is too thin to use as dial grease on the mainspring shaft, too thick to penetrate the bearing points on the gear train and too thick to put on gear teeth (it's a thicker coating) to become a magnet for dust and dirt that turns to mud over time, as in the image below (it required a round toothpick to remove the mud that had turned very hard in the small gear that is on the axel that turns the governor worm gear) where the mud was so think and hard that the gear mesh became tight, clogged up, and greatly slowed down the dial speed.

Any type of oil or grease will trap any dust/dirt that lands in it. It's not much of a concern in a normal home environment though, because while the dial mechanism isn't sealed anywhere near as well as, e.g., a typical mechanical watch mechanism (which usually has O-ring seals for water-resistance), it's still fairly well sheltered from normal dust in the air. Ones that get as gunked up as the one in your picture probably spent a lot of time in a dirty environment, somewhere like a factory or a mechanic's garage with a lot of dirty air blowing around all the time from things like fans, engine exhaust, and people blowing the dirt off things with a compressed air hose.
#2
Quote from: Fwbeachbum on Today at 03:00:51 PMDoug, Many thanks. That would explain why the receiver won't come out of the cap as well.

Try putting it in the freezer in a zip lock baggie for about 4 hours.
Then remove it and tap it gently on a flat surface, it should loosen it up.
The same thing happens to the colored WE 302 sets but, I've been lucky just tapping them on the bench and using a small punch to push them out being careful not to puncture the capsule.
#3
Quote from: Fwbeachbum on Today at 03:00:51 PMDoug, Many thanks. That would explain why the receiver won't come out of the cap as well.
Jeff...if the receiver element won't come out, a different element will not help you. You have to try to get it out without damaging the Bakelite, which is not easy  ...Doug
#4
Doug, Many thanks. That would explain why the receiver won't come out of the cap as well.
#5
Make sure the spring contacts are bent up to touch the back of the transmitter. That just happened to me on my new 1500.
#6
Quote from: RDPipes on Today at 10:58:58 AMYou never want to use standard (red & white bottle) 3 in one oil in a fan motor because its detergent oil . . . there is a 3 in one you can use in the Blue & White bottle that is made for electric motors. 

Guess I got it right, after reading the front label . . .  ;)

SAE 20 3-1 Oil Engineered for Motors.jpg

Could not take the motor apart. Actually, had a hard time getting to it. It was running dry (vibrating) after it warmed up, ran 10 minutes, but after using a 1/8" ID 18" long plastic tubing and a couple of applications to get oil somewhere near the front and rear shaft bearings, all is well. Will remember your advice next time I have to work on a motor (however, I have taken motors that would not turn apart and after cleaning them, used high temperature grease on the shafts and that worked well).

Anyway, the point I was making about 3-1 Oil is that being 20 weight oil it is too thin to use as dial grease on the mainspring shaft, too thick to penetrate the bearing points on the gear train and too thick to put on gear teeth (it's a thicker coating) to become a magnet for dust and dirt that turns to mud over time, as in the image below (it required a round toothpick to remove the mud that had turned very hard in the small gear that is on the axel that turns the governor worm gear) where the mud was so think and hard that the gear mesh became tight, clogged up, and greatly slowed down the dial speed.

Anybody can use anything they want, it's their phone. Everyone has their own pet oil that works for them for if didn't, why would they be using it? The other oils might work just fine but why use something other than dial grease and oil when both are readily available and inexpensive?
#7
I personally like the little cheapie analog multimeters.  Watching a moving needle reveals more info about the circuit you're testing. You can see dial pulses, whether a transmitter is working, continuity in bell coils. You can also see intermittents in cords, whether a capacitor is good, receiver working or not. All this can be seen using the Rx1, Rx10 and Rx100 scales.  The needle responds to changes much faster than the changing digits on a digital multimeter.
One example of a test I do to check the bell circuit in a phone without taking it apart. Set the meter to Rx100, put leads on L1 and L2 with receiver on hook. When you initially touch the leads to L1,l2 the needle will kick a little. This shows that the ringer is continuous, the capacitor is OK and the cord is good.
If the phone is not single party or an older one, you may have to do this test between ground and and one of the L's. Of course do all these tests with the phone disconnected from the line.
#8
Auction Talk / Re: Med Blue 500 for $64.00 - ...
Last post by HarrySmith - Today at 02:31:07 PM
I was questioning it myself as I looked further.

BUYER BEWARE!!
#9
Auction Talk / Re: Med Blue 500 for $64.00 - ...
Last post by countryman - Today at 02:18:56 PM
No intention to spoil the party but that looks like a fake shop. Be careful.
#10
Auction Talk / Med Blue 500 for $64.00 - NOT ...
Last post by HarrySmith - Today at 02:11:34 PM
I came across this while surfing the net. I know nothing about the phone or the site it is on. Looks like free shipping too. Some pretty cheap stuff on this site.

https://www.napashopzon.com/product/1956-Mediterranean-Blue-Rotary-Phone-Western-Electric-Soft-Plastic_umw3469ba855268.html