Planned VoIP Topography with Princess/Trimpline Dial-Lite Support

[AliceWonder]

I'd just like to share my current plans with marrying "new" tech (VoIP) together with "old" tech within the house I currently live in.

Not really a "help sought" thread but of course if anyone notices a flaw I'm more than welcome to learn.

Most of my low-voltage wiring experience is related to RG6 coaxial networks (FM, ATSC, CaTV, DirecTV---and often MoCA/DECA on top of them as secondary service) and Cat5/5e/6 TCP/IP LAN networks.

Dropping cables through walls, intelligent routing to avoid NM-B power cable interference, etc. is all stuff I have tools for and experience with, just not previously applied to telephone networks.

Learning how to do this hard, not a lot of good information that I was able to find on the Internet---it seems most of the relevant information seems to be in trade school textbooks, some of which I was able to find at a larger library.

Anyway, what I plan to do is recreate a standard analog network but with an NID that is not phone company owned up in that attic. Five bedrooms, plus house line, means a six-line NID to make sure every room can (if they choose) have their own VoIP number.

The VoIP ATA will be located in the garage where it has easy access to the Fiber Optic uplink router.

For my version of the local loop - Two solid core Cat6a (or possibly Cat6) will go from VoIP to NID, I can put jacks in at both locations and use standard network cable testing equipment to test integrity. Then just patch cables from Attic 8P8C jacks into NID and from Garage 8P8C jacks to ATA (obviously with 6P2C on each pair for VoIP ATA).

Using the T568B standard, the Green pair is the one that straddles the Blue pair, so I'll get my six lines out of two runs by using Brown pair in each run as line 3 and Green as the spare.

I do have ground access in Attic but obviously not NEC earthing electrode, but since my local loop originates in the house, I don't believe lightening surge suppression is necessary.

The VoIP specific NID will provide the phone support, but not the Princess Phone dial lite support.

For that, originally I was going to use a junction box (plastic with hinged door like cable companies install) but I think I'm actually going to use a 3-line NID located near the 6-line NID. I could just use a single 12-line but I want to keep the lines separate.

Again the "local loop" will originate in Garage but with a single Cat6a (or Cat6). In garage, the network cable will terminate with two 6P2C jacks in the wall and two unterminated pairs that can be terminated in future. These 6P2C jacks are for Princess Phone transformers.

A 2012A/2012C with 1.75 VA can power a single Princess phone (or allegedly several Trimline clones) and I assume the modern Panasonic replacement is also 1.75 VA but I don't know.

A KS-20426 L3 (avoiding the recalled Ault manufactured unit) with its 5.5 VA can allegedly power up to five Princess phones, but I've read reports that in some models of Trimline clones, they will eventually melt the wires in the handset.

So... having two 6P2C jacks allows me to support multiple Princess Phones with the more powerful transformer one one jack and still be able to support Trimline phones with the less powerful transformer on the second jack.

Reality is I will probably only ever need to support one Princess Phone and no Trimline, but why not wire for the possibility?

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For each destination point in the bedrooms, I'll run a Cat5e cable for phone lines and a four-conductor alarm system cable for "Princess Power". Each destination gets two 6P6C jacks, each jack has two lines from Cat5e and pins 1,6 for top jack use Green,Red wires from alarm system cable and pins 1,6 from bottom jack use Black,White wires from alarm system cable. Using alarm system cable because riser rated four-conductor phone cable is hard to find.

Anyway the alarm cable goes to the three-line junction box. When a princess phone (or Trimline clone) is to be used, I can wire the wires for appropriate jack to the Customer Bridge Module that is fed from the right transformer.

Since power if fed on positions 1 and 6, obviously phones with modular jacks that expect it on positions 2,5 will need a phone cord that one one end switches positions.

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I've already ordered the necessary Tii customer bridge modules. Tii NID boxes (3600 and 3700) seem harder to find retail, but there's no rush on this project.

[ka1axy]

If it were me (and this is how I wired my house when it was built), I'd run 2x CAT5 between the wiring closet and each room. Terminate on 110/66 blocks or RJ45 patch panels.

Keeps your options open and allows use for phone or network.

I run a Panasonic KX-TAW848, patch extensions into it from the patch panels so I can change number/room assignments without having to reprogram.