GTE AE 120B payphone opened but is the missing coin relay blocking a dial tone?

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I purchased an upper housing key and T key to open this GTE singleslot Payphone:

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=26643.0

I will post the cosmetic restoration of what I have learned is a 1980 GTE rotary 120b but had to take it apart again because I do not have dial tone-- only a faint fast busy signal when testing the receiver with my RS phone tester.  I had the same signal before working on it, but the dial was gunked up so I thought that was the culprit. I now have US cleaned, lubricated, and cleaned contacts on the dial. I have not purposefully changed any connections or setting which looked correct to begin with.   I checked them against the schematic and setting on DSK's 120b post from 2014. Pictures look the same EXCEPT I do not have a coin relay so nothing is plugged into P3. My ringer has a capped black lead and DSK's looks to as well (this is not on the schematic):
 
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=11846.0

With the phone connected to the RS tester it passes a loop test and dial test. The receiver test produces the fast busy signal, the transmitter test transmits the busy signal and passes. The ringer works and the hookswitch works appropriately for the ringer, receiver and transmitter. The busy signal is there immediately on all tests and silences with the hookswitch. Dialing the dial stops the signal if the polarity for L1 and L2 is correct. Changing to another rotary array or selecting different strap setting on the chassis assembly makes no difference in the busy signal although some arrays are louder than other but all less loud than a normal dial tone. Disconnecting all arrays and all straps and the ringer makes no difference. Connecting to a POTS makes the same fast quiet busy signal. I thought I should be able to use this without a coin relay and fear something is fried on the chassis assembly (picture two). Picture one is the back of the upper housing for the six wire AE rotary dial which is mostly plastic on this one from 1980. I need some help please. thanks JC

[RDPipes]

This is certainly shorted out, my eyes can't tell you without being there and seeing it and both sides but, it looks like the board itself is burnt beyond repair. I don't know what these boards cost but, I can imagine. Hope someone can help you out with more positive answers sir.

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h

This is certainly shorted out

thank you for your reply. The part you circled looks like the rest of the board in real life--probably an optical illusion in the picture.  The only questionable component I can see is up near the ringer. It is a coil that is up by the ringer which the schematics refer to as the 'choke assembly"  When I disconnect this I lose the low fast busy signal but get no dial tone.  I think this coil blocks the audio to the handset from the power supply and I have noticed it on other newer residential AE phones with board-type networks like in a AE80E. I think I would probably try to figure out ringer, hookswitch, and the 6 wire dial connections to a network I could install to by pass the board rather than replacing it.

[RDPipes]

h
thank you for your reply. The part you circled looks like the rest of the board in real life--probably an optical illusion in the picture.  The only questionable component I can see is up near the ringer. It is a coil that is up by the ringer which the schematics refer to as the 'choke assembly"  When I disconnect this I lose the low fast busy signal but get no dial tone.  I think this coil blocks the audio to the handset from the power supply and I have noticed it on other newer residential AE phones with board-type networks like in a AE80E. I think I would probably try to figure out ringer, hookswitch, and the 6 wire dial connections to a network I could install to by pass the board rather than replacing it.

Oh Okay, that's some really weird allusion. If it's the choke coil you think your having problems with I would check it's continuity / connection to the board its attached to first. It's hanging off the bottom of it and may have come loose at it's soldered connections. This can happen with a lot of components and just looking won't always tell the truth, using a meter and moving the coil or trying to while looking at the meter will tell you a little more. One other thing is to get a diagram that tells you the resistance values of the coil so you can also check those before assuming anything else. Now that's what I would do going on what you've told me.