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#1
General Discussion / Re: AT&T slimline 210
Last post by poplar1 - Today at 10:02:15 AMQuote from: neondave on March 21, 2024, 12:08:42 PMInteresting , still some landline users out therea few slight diff between 210 / 210M . Wonder where they are made now
Checking on eBay, I see Mexico, China, and Taiwan.
#2
Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: Stromberg Carlson wont dia...
Last post by poplar1 - Today at 09:55:33 AMWhere are the dial wires connected? I can't read all the network terminal designations, but it looks like there are no wires connected to the double F terminal.
#3
Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: AT&T 2500 key pad intermit...
Last post by poststalker - Today at 08:00:09 AMWell, it's working again after another strip down and clean. I'll see how long it lasts. Thanks all for your help!
#4
Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...
Last post by RDPipes - Today at 07:41:14 AMI've painted quite a few prewar metal (zinc) case phones WE & SC and I've found no matter what rattle can paint you use 24 hours isn't long enough time for it to completely cure even using a oven because it's still remains a bit rubbery after words. It's okay to handle but, if one takes their finger nail and presses on it it'll mark it, it's not 2K automotive paint and it will never be but, you can get good results. Just be patient for the paint to cure and watch your flash times. I've had cases even when oven baking it took close to a mouth before I could rub it out. below are some I've done.
#5
Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...
Last post by TelePlay - Today at 07:12:53 AMBaking cures the paint polymerization process in one hour. The same level of curing, making the paint hard and tight on the surface, can be achieved by letting the painted item sit at room temperature for 3 to 6 months.
Paint doesn't dry, the carrier solvents evaporate and then the paint cures. IIRC, all auto paint shops expose newly painted surfaces to heat lamps to do the same thing.
Take two small pieces of sheet metal. Clean, degrease with acetone, sand with 400 grit to get a surface bite, blow off the sanding dust with a clean cotton cloth and then a hair dryer and then prime and paint both the same way at the same time. Bake one first at 110 to get the solvents off without bubbling the paint and then at 250 to 300 and after it cools, do your fingernail test on both. Then decide which is best.
Paint doesn't dry, the carrier solvents evaporate and then the paint cures. IIRC, all auto paint shops expose newly painted surfaces to heat lamps to do the same thing.
Take two small pieces of sheet metal. Clean, degrease with acetone, sand with 400 grit to get a surface bite, blow off the sanding dust with a clean cotton cloth and then a hair dryer and then prime and paint both the same way at the same time. Bake one first at 110 to get the solvents off without bubbling the paint and then at 250 to 300 and after it cools, do your fingernail test on both. Then decide which is best.
#6
Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...
Last post by tubaman - Today at 03:00:22 AMI've only painted a few parts but as Teleplay have also used standard automotive aerosol primer and top coat. I haven't baked it on but it seems reasonably robust - probably not as strong as the factory finish but then I wouldn't expect it to be. I'd also say if it's being air dried to give it a few days before any rough handling.
#7
Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...
Last post by turbofirev8 - Today at 01:50:07 AMThanks for the reply. Other then the heating though, your process sounds pretty much exactly how I tried to do things, particularly on my third attempt. As I understand it, heating a piece, which will bake off the solvents in the paint, only really helps the paint to dry quicker and lay a bit smoother as it allows it to flow some during the process, but it doesn't necessarily help all that much with adhesion, correct? Certainly it won't help paint to adhere to a surface it wouldn't adhere to normally anyway, at least that's how I understand it.
Any idea what brand of paint you use? Probably Krylon or Rustoleum I'm assuming, as that is what Wal-mart, like pretty much every other store around, usually carries. That is actually where I got the paint, both brands, that I used on all these different attempts.
I'm going to go back to not using a solvent to wipe it down as I think it is getting trapped in the more porous surface after the blasting process and not evaporating as quickly, though I've never had that problem with plain steel parts before. Either way I think the use of solvent is just adding to the issue, and I fear if I used soap and water to simply wash the parts the soap might do the same. Instead I'll sand it by hand for the hundredth time. Then go back to using a tack cloth and compressed air for final prep and see if that and the combination of the Kyrlon 5X adhesion paint, which worked on the other phone part I mentioned, will do it. Frankly, I'm not sure if blasting them is hurting more then helping at this point. I'm only using glass bead to blast them though, which is relatively mild and does not significantly pit the surface, not like sand or black oxide would. I figured a more porous surface is what I would need to help adhesion here though, as I've had luck with similar techniques in the past with materials like aluminum, but I'm not sure if that's true or not on this material.
Anyone with any further thoughts, tips, or suggestions though would be appreciated. Thanks again.
Any idea what brand of paint you use? Probably Krylon or Rustoleum I'm assuming, as that is what Wal-mart, like pretty much every other store around, usually carries. That is actually where I got the paint, both brands, that I used on all these different attempts.
I'm going to go back to not using a solvent to wipe it down as I think it is getting trapped in the more porous surface after the blasting process and not evaporating as quickly, though I've never had that problem with plain steel parts before. Either way I think the use of solvent is just adding to the issue, and I fear if I used soap and water to simply wash the parts the soap might do the same. Instead I'll sand it by hand for the hundredth time. Then go back to using a tack cloth and compressed air for final prep and see if that and the combination of the Kyrlon 5X adhesion paint, which worked on the other phone part I mentioned, will do it. Frankly, I'm not sure if blasting them is hurting more then helping at this point. I'm only using glass bead to blast them though, which is relatively mild and does not significantly pit the surface, not like sand or black oxide would. I figured a more porous surface is what I would need to help adhesion here though, as I've had luck with similar techniques in the past with materials like aluminum, but I'm not sure if that's true or not on this material.
Anyone with any further thoughts, tips, or suggestions though would be appreciated. Thanks again.
#8
Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: Stromberg Carlson wont dia...
Last post by TelePlay - Yesterday at 07:55:27 PMWith the new images, I can see the red circled leaves (white wires) are the mute circuit and the blue circled leaves are the pulsing circuit.
#9
Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...
Last post by TelePlay - Yesterday at 07:49:41 PMI've always had good results using rattle can automotive primer and paint from Walmart.
As, I remember, after stripping the metal and/or sanding remaining original paint smooth with 400 grit, degreasing the surface with acetone, applying the primer and then the first coat of paint after an hour of applying the primer.
Then baking it at about 120 degrees to let the solvents bake off and then increasing the temperature to set the paint.
When cool, sand with 600 grit, remove all sanding dust with clean compressed air and applying a second, and final coating.
Bake the same way and when cool, apply a coating of renaissance wax with a soft cotton cloth and buffed using a micro fiber cloth.
Works on brass, pot metal, aluminum and steel. Never tried it on copper.
Water and silicone surface contamination will cause issues.
Bought a larger cubic inch convection oven at Walmart for about $55 a few years ago.
This link has the method I used and baking times/temps.
https://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=8770.msg202165#msg202165
As, I remember, after stripping the metal and/or sanding remaining original paint smooth with 400 grit, degreasing the surface with acetone, applying the primer and then the first coat of paint after an hour of applying the primer.
Then baking it at about 120 degrees to let the solvents bake off and then increasing the temperature to set the paint.
When cool, sand with 600 grit, remove all sanding dust with clean compressed air and applying a second, and final coating.
Bake the same way and when cool, apply a coating of renaissance wax with a soft cotton cloth and buffed using a micro fiber cloth.
Works on brass, pot metal, aluminum and steel. Never tried it on copper.
Water and silicone surface contamination will cause issues.
Bought a larger cubic inch convection oven at Walmart for about $55 a few years ago.
This link has the method I used and baking times/temps.
https://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=8770.msg202165#msg202165
#10
Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: Stromberg Carlson wont dia...
Last post by bcarolla - Yesterday at 06:51:46 PMQuote from: poplar1 on Yesterday at 03:40:40 PMIn the second photo, it appears to me that the 2 white wires are connected to the muting contact springs. So when you dial, you are not hearing dial tone, because
the receiver is shorted.
Also, make sure there is not an added wire (strap) between F and RR.
I hear dial tone until I move the dial and the switch in red goes closed.
Quote from: TelePlay on Yesterday at 03:51:39 PMDid I get this wrong? To me it looks like the white wires are connected to the pulse contacts in the dial, the red circle.More images per your request. Hope they show what you are looking for if not tell me what more is needed. The last picture shows where the two white wires from the dial plug in. Thanks!!
Could use better images of the dial from different angles showing what is operating both sets of leaf springs.