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and very rarely ever needs repairs, once you fix them." - Dan/Panther

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Now the Story Can be Told - 1949 WECo 500 Set

Started by Dan/Panther, March 20, 2010, 11:08:11 PM

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I have attached three pictures.

The first shows the different (302, 500 rivet-on, Galion and mystery) footpad inner plates.  This is the one that is against the base plate when the footpad is mounted.  Unlike the D/P footpad all have dimples for alignment (which can easily be removed) and a circular recess to fit on the base plate.  The D/P has a triangular recess rather then circular and no dimples.  If the circular recess does not fit over the triangular bump in the base plate, I am sure it can be modified to fit.

The second picture is the outer plates.  This is the side that sits on whatever surface the phone is placed.  All but the 500 has a recess.  The recess is needed when the screw is used to attach the footpad to the base.  This rules out the 500 rivet-on type.

The last picture is how each footpad looks when attached to the baseplate.  The 500 rivet-on and Galion use outside to inside connection so they would not work.  The 302 has the flat top rather than curved so it is not desired.  The Unknown is a little smaller and a little less rounded to the shape but two mounted on the back end should be very difficult to see the differences.  The heights are the same so that will not be an issue.

I believe the Unkown is from a North Electric TP-6-A.  I have found that the TP-6-A (Army Signal Corp phone) were made by Connecticut, North Electric and WECo.  I have never seen any of them and do not know what manufacturer used the leather footpad.

D/P - can I get some dimensions on the triangular recess on your footpad?  If this is acceptable, I can take the dimples out and do any changes that may make it easier for this to fit.  Also we need to find another one.



dan,  try removing most of the dried tape with a razor blade. but stop before you scratch the paint. then lay a soaking wet soapy washcloth on the spot for a while. if that doesn't loosen the residue, maybe goo gone or denatured alcohol. use the chemicals very sparingly until you see what the results are.

Jim Stettler

Quote from: Dan/Panther on March 25, 2010, 09:14:03 PM
Paul has requested that I remove the tape residue from the bottom so as to see if any other markings are present. One problem. The tape was Duct tape, and the glue has tried very hard. Does anyone know of a sure fire, and mild way to remove the dried tape residue, without using a harsh cleaner of solvent, which may damage the black finish, or damage any markings, as some of the green marking is covered by the residue. Also the word LOUD is directly above the arrow pointing, and is under the tape residue.

I like citrus based adhesive remover. It is mild and I don't think it would hurt anything. The stuff I have on hand is

3M Adhesive remover citrus base. It is solvent free and food-grade. It is citrus extract and propane. It may attack some plastics.

I got this from a countertop guy. sells a lemon based adhesive remover

You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.


I have used goo-gone with success  also. I find it interesting the gongs are painted A  & B and not stamped like later ones.

I would clean it exactly like you are doing.
"Imagine how weird telephones would look if our ears weren't so close to our mouths." - Steven Wright


I vote for goo-gone as well, it's a great cleaner but not harsh.

I think you are cleaning it up well, like I said earlier it's in good hands.

And who among us is amazed that it works??? :D

That ringer is seriously overbuilt. 

Jim Stettler

Regarding tape residue. I have been told by a coin collector that the make a n adhesive remover to remove old tape from currency. You could probably find some at a coin dealer.

I would not scrape the residue.

You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.


I've used spray silicone lubricant on stubborn adhesives with good results.  Coat the area liberally & let it soak in for a few minutes.  Then gently massage with a soft toothbrush or the pad of your thumb.  When all is removed, a soft rag is all you need to remove the remaining lubricant, which will polish the finish on the base quite nicely.


The Galion appears to have the largest relief. I wonder if an appropriate nut could be sandwiched inside of the Galion foot so it could be screwed on from the inside. Anything between the foot and the frame would not show, and the Galion is about the best match for shape.
Here are a couple more ringer shots. The aluminum inner baffle unlike later 500's these are glued to the frame. The glue residue is very apparent and I'm not about to try to force them off.

The More People I meet, The More I Love, and MISS My Dog.  Dan Robinson


I will start with the mildest, which appears to be Goo-gone.
Any objection to removing the tarnish from the ringer gongs, the insides are near mint, and the outsides are just slightly tarnished. A light treatmnet will bring them back to normal, I'm not suggesting a polished look, just to remove the darkness.

The More People I meet, The More I Love, and MISS My Dog.  Dan Robinson

Jim Stettler

I have been noticing the part#'s
With the last 3 digits being on different parts.

I would  guess that D117 was the main code for this version on 500

the xxx#'s are for the parts. The part#'s seem to start @001 and looks like they are probably sequential.

I would like to see a list of the parts and their #'s added to the list of accumulated info.

I am thinking proper handset elements may be D117xxx  #'s

You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.


i think the trick on removing the tape will be to let the goo gone soak into the residue. i suggested using the razor blade first because sometimes dried duct tape will flake right off with a little scraping. this leaves just a thin layer of adhesive to deal with. good luck.
i vote for removing the tarnish on the gongs.


You might want to get the gongs looking a little better, as you suggested.
Don't forget about trying WD40 for the duct tape.
Let me know what you decide for feet.
I might have a donor phone I can get some off of.

Dennis Markham

Dan, the earlier C Series ringers had the gong baffles pressed on.  It is not unusual to find the early ones like that. I never noticed adhesive on those.

I would avoid cleaning the gongs.  You don't want to remove those A & B designations by accident. 

It's interesting to see how the ringer was modified for production.  But the basic design is the same. 

Nice photos.  If you can take one more from directly above, looking down, we haven't seen that view.

Thanks, Dan.


The Chassis is numbered D117001, then followed by 125, and parts that are riveted to the chassis like the line switch mechanism is numbered 125 also, but the network portion riveted to the Chassis is 209, and the Equalizer is numbered 35 on the housing, but the insides are numbered D177018-35
I'm thinking the D117 is like you say, the 125, I'm thinking may be the number in a sequence, like 125, of 200 ?
The ringer is numbered D117006, then 124, I'm not seeing a definitive pattern to the 3 digits numbers.

I think a soak is the answer. I'll try it where no graphics are located so I don't screw up.

The More People I meet, The More I Love, and MISS My Dog.  Dan Robinson


The last photo I posted was from above, would you like a closer shot ?

The More People I meet, The More I Love, and MISS My Dog.  Dan Robinson