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#51
All Other Pay Telephones / Converting an Intellicall payp...
Last post by MaximRecoil - March 23, 2024, 11:01:09 AM
About a dozen years ago I made a thread here where I talked about wanting to do this, but I didn't know enough about how Touch-Tone keypads worked at the time to actually do it:

https://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=7423

The payphone's chassis is an Intellicall 3003 (which has never worked at all for as long as I've owned it) and the housing is a Tidel-3. The keypad is stock and it doesn't have the tone-generating hardware built into it, so that stuff must be on the Intellicall chassis.

In order to convert it to a regular home phone using 2500 type components, I needed to know the pinout of the keypad and I needed tone-generating hardware.

I'm already familiar with the newer types of 2500 keypads that use a 16-pin tone-generating chip (e.g., TCM5087, S2559FS, UM9559E, and maybe others that work the same way as those three) in combination with a 3.58 MHz crystal so that's what I wanted to use. They are simple and I can easily fix anything that could ever go wrong with them, unlike the convoluted older designs (like the Western Electric type 35 keypad).

So I bought one of those newer types of 2500 keypads, an NOS one on eBay for $10 which uses a UM9559E chip in order to use its tone-generating PCB.

I used a continuity meter to figure out the pinout of the Intellicall's keypad (see attached picture number 3), and once I did that, all I needed to do was wire the 7 relevant pins on the Intellicall's keypad to the 7 through-holes on the 2500 keypad's tone-generating PCB (see attached picture number 4).

Attached pictures 1 and 2 show a complete phone wired together, using the Intellicall's keypad, the eBay 2500 keypad's tone-generating PCB, and an ITT 427 type network, and everything works perfectly.

To connect wires to the Intellicall keypad's header pins I used some front panel connectors (which already had wires attached to them) that are intended for use with a PC, since they are the same size and pitch as the front panel header pins on a PC's motherboard. I used a pair of 2-position ones for pins 1-4 (I couldn't find a 4-position one in my junk pile), and a 3-position one for pins 5-7.

The only thing I need to do now is come up with a way to mount the tone-generating PCB, the network, and the ringer in the payphone's upper housing. I'll probably screw in a wooden board below the keypad using the 4 screw holes that are already there, then screw the tone-generating PCB, the network, and the ringer to the wood. I'll need to make a little metal bracket with a hole and rubber grommet, and screw that to the wood, for the rear mounting stud on the C4-type ringer to slide into.
#52
General Discussion / Re: 12-button Princess® with ...
Last post by TelePlay - March 23, 2024, 10:52:11 AM
Quote from: HarrySmith on March 22, 2024, 12:33:10 PMPictures?

Harry, in case you are wondering, I just checked this topic and found that it in no way blocks images from being uploaded. Just uploaded this one without issue or problem.
#53
Quote from: Gerd on March 23, 2024, 06:59:27 AMWhat I also found out: For me it seems that is not possible to remove the finger wheel due to the type of rotary unit. If you look to the picture you can see 3 metal-pieces like wings on "position 12, 4 and 8". There are little pins on the finger wheel that are stopping the clockwise rotation on that wings after releasing that little metal-tongue with the precision tool. Sorry for my english I hope I explained the problem the right way.

I think what you have is a plastic finger wheel that either has shrunk a bit making it a tighter fit on the spider mount or the 3 finger wheel mounting slots may be filled with dust and crud over the years.

This is a comparison of your dial, from the front, with one that I have. There a 5 wings, 2 (in red) that are used for attaching the dial main spring and 3 (in green) that are used for mounting the finger wheel.

01 Dial front.jpg

The 2 main spring tabs have a groove through which the main spring passes and the red arrow shows the hook at the end of the mainspring that holds it in place on that wing. Your dial uses a "C" clip to hold the mount in place, mine uses a nut.

The nut or "C" clip is holding the mounting spider and the dial mainspring in place. When removing clip or the nut, the mount will lift up and out and the main spring will be attached to its back. when putting it back in, make sure you put about 1.25 to 1.5 turns of tension into the spring - that is the tension in the spring when the dial is at rest. Being new to phones, this will be a learning experience for you. The mount and mainspring assembly do not have to be removed to get the bezel off.

This is the front view of the mount, with the main spring in place. The finger wheel mounting wings are circled in green, the spring attachment wings are circled in red.

02 Mount front.jpg

The side view of the mount with main spring attached shows the difference between the 3 mounting wings and the 2 main spring guides. The 3 mounting wings are made to fit into slots in the plastic finger wheel to hold the finger wheel perfectly flat on the mount. In this image you can also see the slotted main spring wing with the main spring mounting hook indicated by the red arrow.

03 Mount side.jpg

The main spring easily detaches from the mounting wheel for cleaning so if you get this far and it falls off in your hands, no problem. Very easy to insert the spring in the 2 grooved wings and hook it onto the mount.

You can see a hook at the other end of the spring, not annotated, which is the hook that attaches the spring to the dial case when putting it back together - attach the dial case hook, put 1.25 to 1.5 turns of tension into the spring, set the mount back on to it center dial case post and attach the "C" clip. There are 3 mounting holes in the dial case spaced 120° apart, this allows you to pick the one that after putting the tension into the spring, ends up with the small finger wheel locking tab in the 5 o'clock position.

This last image is the finger wheel itself from the back with the winged spider mount in place.

04 Fingerwheel Back.jpg

Green circles show the 3 finger wheel mounting wings in place, inside their mounting slots.

The 3 green lines show where the mounting tabs started when the finger wheel is first placed on the mounting spider, when the locking tab is at it "beginning to attach" position (the red arrow). As the finger wheel is rotated counter clockwise to get it into the locked position, the 3 finger wheel wings are in the open, flat area of the finger wheel (blue arrows) as shown by the green lines.

As the dial is turned counter clock wise to lock it into place, the 3 mounting wings slide into their locking slots as seen in this image in the green circles, in the slots holding the finger wheel perfectly flat and tight against the mounting spider.

Bottom line, seems like your finger wheel is "frozen" in place in the slots and just needs a bit more torque to break it free from the mounting spider. I have had some finger wheels that needed a lot of torque before they broke free. And there is no way to get a lubricant into those slots to help break it free.

If you get the finger wheel off, it would be best to stop there. You can clean and polish the bezel in place and with the finger wheel removed, you can clean and polish the plastic and then place a new number card in the finger wheel.

If you want to remove the bezel, you will find either 2 or 3 screws holding it in place or a bezel retention ring. I can't tell from your image because the finger wheel covers up the bezel retention method.

Bezel Retaining Ring Image.jpg

If it is a retention ring, use a pointed tool to rotate it counter clockwise until the 3 tabs are free from  the metal slots into which they fit (a clear image of this is inside the green circle). Then lift out the ring and then remove the bezel.

If there are mounting screws, remove them and then remove the bezel.
#54
Old Free to a Good Home Listings / Re: Free One Box of Miscellane...
Last post by RDPipes - March 23, 2024, 09:33:20 AM
This is GONE! No longer available!
#55
Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: NE-500 from Turkey - how t...
Last post by Gerd - March 23, 2024, 06:59:27 AM
Okay, here's an update: first of all - thank you all for helping. At least I used a micro screwdriver as mentioned. I found out that it worked perfectly to pull down that little spring.
What I also found out: For me it seems that is not possible to remove the finger wheel due to the type of rotary unit. If you look to the picture you can see 3 metal-pieces like wings on "position 12, 4 and 8". There are little pins on the finger wheel that are stopping the clockwise rotation on that wings after releasing that little metal-tongue with the precision tool. Sorry for my english I hope I explained the problem the right way.
Sadly the problem can't be fixed.
I love vintage things. Using my Gillette DE Razors same like f.e. the old WE 500 Series. Everytime I hear the Ringtone, it reminds me to The Rockford Files. I am probably one of the greatest "Rockfish" Fans in Germany.
At least I will look if I can find a black 500 from the 60th on the Internet.
Anyway - thank you all for the support - I will appreciate your help also in the future.
A nice weekend to you guys.
#56
General Discussion / Re: AT&T slimline 210
Last post by MMikeJBenN27 - March 23, 2024, 12:19:16 AM
I still use a "land-line".  I don't see how you can collect classic phones and not be able to test and use them.

Mike
#57
General Discussion / Re: 12-button Princess® with ...
Last post by MMikeJBenN27 - March 23, 2024, 12:16:11 AM
12 buttons came out in the late 60s, modular came out in the mid 70s.  Hard-wired 12 button Touch Tone seems rare because you were charged extra for Touch Tone service, and most people passed because of that.  In about 1980, the extra charge was sharply reduced, at least here in California, to just $1.00.  Touch Tone then took off.  That's why it seems like 12 buttons are always modular.

Mike
#58
General Discussion / Re: 12-button Princess® with ...
Last post by Robert Gift - March 22, 2024, 11:43:42 PM
Quote from: 5415551212 on March 22, 2024, 03:10:09 PMThats a bummer when these go missing, I have whipped one up by soldering up a resistor / diode / LED part + some heat shrink and hard wire it in the phone.
I could probably make one and mail it to you.

Thank you, both.
Was thinking of soldering stiff wires to the light bulb and bending them to hold the bulb up in the same position as the socket.

My previously-purchased thrift store Princess telephonever had a light.   The warm glow was much of the charm of a Princess telephone on a nightstand.
#59
General Discussion / Re: 12-button Princess® with ...
Last post by TelePlay - March 22, 2024, 03:57:30 PM
Quote from: Robert Gift on March 21, 2024, 07:25:18 PMLight bulb insert is missing. Can I find the light bulb insert?

Here's one source:

https://www.oldphoneshop.com/products/princess-telephone-socket-and-bulb.html

Might be others for sale at a lower price.
#60
General Discussion / Re: 12-button Princess® with ...
Last post by 5415551212 - March 22, 2024, 03:10:09 PM
Quote from: Robert Gift on March 21, 2024, 07:25:18 PMLight bulb insert is missing.   Light bulb resistor looks good.

Can I find the light bulb insert?


Thats a bummer when these go missing, I have whipped one up by soldering up a resistor / diode / LED part + some heat shrink and hard wire it in the phone.
 
I could probably make one and mail it to you.