I clicked on this auction and saw the Ivory 305 and said Oh My ;D. I saw it had a bid for only 10 and I said Oh My 8), I saw the next picture and sighed Oh My :'(,,,,,Doug
http://www.ebay.com/itm/232276647000?rmvSB=true
WOW! What a shame!
Wow! That really is tragic.
That's too bad, the 1st picture looks like a real deal.
It is tragic and a reminder I need to pull all colored 302s out of storage and pull the housing off of the base. I lost a blue one recently transporting it in the car, I stopped to pick up some stuff at the market, when I came out the cold had cracked it. I won't make that mistake again, but it has really put me off of the colored 302s.
I can never see the words "Oh my" without George Takaei saying them... ;D
Dick Enberg...it was his trademark on NBC Sports
I would buy it just for the escutcheon. All 302-family telephones have a boss molded into the housing which, when drilled out, will accommodate the turn key for the 305 or the 410. The collector value is in the turn key, the escutcheon, and the appropriately marked base. Housings are ubiquitous. Just an FYI: Reproduction housings made by Ray Kotke do not have the boss.
Quote from: Doug Rose on March 24, 2017, 09:26:57 PM
Dick Enberg...it was his trademark on NBC Sports
Never heard of him... ;D
Lions and tigers and bears...
Quote from: twocvbloke on March 24, 2017, 09:17:59 PM
I can never see the words "Oh my" without George Takaei saying them... ;D
https://youtu.be/6nSKkwzwdW4
That is really sad.
I already have an Ivory 302 that has a major corner crack. I tried similar-colored resin, but it peeled right out after it had hardened.
Also notice the spiderwebbed lift. That actually might be repairable, but Ivory thermoplastic doesn't react well to Acetone or Denatured Alcohol polishing.
After I wrote the previous post, I started to think. I've been waiting to try out Unbeldi's crack repair method on my cracked Ivory 302, but it didn't seem logical to mix up a batch of the Ivory plastic/Acetone liquid and only use it on one phone.
I have an Ivory parts 302 with plenty of broken shards of plastic I can use for repairing other phones. That also has a perfect lift.
Shortly before it ended, I put a snipe in. I won it for $41!! ;D
I figured that anyone else would have only bought it for the switch assembly and 'on/off' badge, overlooking the original Ivory housing.
I've seen two different types of switches used on 305s; the knurled type similar to what was used on 532s, or the depressed-side type used on 510s. Which one would be correct for this? If the depressed type, I'm thinking about molding a replica from the knob on my 510.
I need plenty of other parts (dial, handset, cords), but I'm very happy with my purchase! :)
Very good, indeed. You beat out three other "parts" collectors, including me - :-\ - but it went for a lot higher than I wanted to go. Will be interesting to see how your "patching" process works on the housing.
Thanks! Sorry it didn't go to you...I just couldn't stand knowing it would be parted out. IMO, there's still enough of an Ivory 305 to keep it alive!
I'm going to try making a mold of a crack-free 302 corner, and put it over the existing corner when I pour the liquid. This way I can pour through the back, and have a near perfect corner on the outside after it's hardened.
I can't wait to see the results.
Cool. I was thnking the same thing but I have so many projects going on right now I did not need another.
Quote from: HarrySmith on March 27, 2017, 09:45:52 AM
Cool. I was thnking the same thing but I have so many projects going on right now I did not need another.
I have too many projects as it is, and I feel like I'm buying more projects than I am restoring old ones. Still, I'll be restoring another 'old' project at the same time as this, so that's how I'm justifying my purchase... ;D
Well, it looks like it should be here earlier than I thought...tomorrow. :o
I have reconstructed several plastic stereoscopic viewers and one technique I developed was to use a metal staple placed into the unseen side of the plastic to provide retention to a stressed apart crack in an item. I would use my Dremel tool to drill 2 holes big enough to insert a paper clip sized wire, bent like a paper staple with the legs slightly bent inward. I would mill out a small recess between the holes across a right angle to the crack and through it. I could then join the crack and insert the staple so the cross piece would fit within the recess. Then the repair could be filled in and the repair would have added strength and resistance to fracture. Most often, I used this technique with bakelite but it could work with other plastics depending on it's thickness.