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302 Dial

Started by liteamorn, September 16, 2011, 10:22:33 AM

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liteamorn

I won a WE 302 from ebay that seems to be in pretty good shape. I am hoping it works when I get a new cord (modular) and plug it in. If it doesn't I will cross that bridge then.
The phone is dated 1948 and really seems to be in decent shape for it's age. I am trying to bring it back to looking great without totally dismanteling it(not sure I am ready to undertake that kind of project quite yet).

The dial plate is in ok condition, the # 1 and #2 are quite worn but still can be seen. Would you guys put a new overlay on it? I ordered one from oldphoneworks but with the date on the old dial plate I think it might be a better idea to keep the old one.

I also have a question about the finger wheel, it is in good shape but could use repainting. What kind of paint would you guys recommend? Some kind of enamal? Rustoleum?

I have found many things here by searching

LarryInMichigan

If the rest of the dial plate looks good, you can try to restore the numbers '1' and '2' with a fine point red permanent marker (and a steady hand).  I prefer authenticity over perfection.  If you mess up, you can always stick the overlay over it.

Larry

Doug Rose

Quote from: LarryInMichigan on September 16, 2011, 10:53:32 AM
If the rest of the dial plate looks good, you can try to restore the numbers '1' and '2' with a fine point red permanent marker (and a steady hand).  I prefer authenticity over perfection.  If you mess up, you can always stick the overlay over it.

Larry

I agree with Larry, especially if all the dates match.  Handset elements as well as the phone shell and the base of the phone, ringer and coil all will have dates. Getting all the dates to match is not easy. I am not a fan of the overlays, if its mildly worn and you can still see the 1 and 2, let it be. Post pictures of the phone when you get it. If the line cord is good, you might want to rethink the modular cord. You can always get a modular adapter. ...Doug
Kidphone

liteamorn

Thanks for the replys ! I will probably leave the dial plate as is, the #'s are all visible, just worn a little worn at 1&2. I don't have that steady a hand to try the permanant marker and I am afraid I will ruin it. I ordered a new dial card assembly, the old one is kind of beat, it is all intact but the plastic is shot and the ring is kind of messed up too. As for the line cord I do not believe it is original, it is a coiled cord and I am sure they did not make a coiled line cord in 1948. I ordered the cloth colored modular to replace it but if you guys have any better ideas I am all ears. I am going to try to clean up the plastic body, first with steal wool and Avon Skin so soft as I have seen here.

The f1 handset is in great shape, sans the usual dullness. The caps both came off with no problems at all . The mic is dated 48 like the rest of the phone and the receiver is only marked HA1 on the front and c1 on the back. I think it might be original but I will look more into that.

I will post pictures later in the week before I really get into bringing this back. I will be asking lots of questions during the process I am sure.

I started this hobby with a recent purchase of a NOS 554 for my kitchen and I swore I would not indulge this (didn't we all?). Now I have a working 500 in my bedroom and this 302 which I am starting to work on now. This is addictive.

Doug Rose

NO STEEL WOOL on this! It is thermoplastic and not bakelite. It would be ruined in seconds. Use Novus II or Brasso to clean it up. No steel wool, sandpaper or anything like it. A wet sand only if it really need it. Post pictures when you receive it...Doug
Kidphone

liteamorn

Got ya with the steel wool Doug. I actually have the phone now and the shoe polish technic really made it look good


liteamorn

How about the finger wheel, would you lightly sand and pain? if so what paint is best?

bigdaddylove

There are a number of ways you can go with the paint. There have been several threads written that will provide more detail but from my experience here are a few options:

1. Rustoleum gloss black thinned 50% with naptha 2 parts paint, 1 part naptha (Chuck's method)
2. Use Brownell's baking lacquer.
3. Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black.
4. Sherwin-Williams "High Heat Black" spray paint #1614.

The general consensus here seems to be that for a smooth and more durable finish, you should cure the part in a small toaster oven.


rp2813

I've used a sharpened red colored pencil on numbers before.  It's not permanent, but if the phone isn't going to be used much it may be all you need, and mistakes are easily wiped away.
Ralph

GG



rp2813: Red pencil!  Excellent idea! 

I used a fine-point permanent black marker for touching up the digits on a numeric WE numberplate, but I did it under a magnifying lamp, holding the numberplate in one hand and the marker in the other. 

After doing that, I covered the numberplate in transparent "Contact" plastic, which is sufficiently adhesive to stay put but can be peeled off without damage.  ("Contact" plastic can be cut roughly to size and then stuck on the numberplate and trimmed to an exact match after pressing it gently into place.)

"Contact" plastic on retouched numberplates would be good where red pencil was used to touch up red numerals, so they don't smear when dialing. 

RE. toaster oven:  I'm concerned that doing it that way would be a) a fire/explosion risk due to the volatile compounds in the paint, and b) would leave toxic chemicals in the toaster oven that could later get into food. 

So what I'd recommend is a heat lamp in a reflector.  However, put the painted part on some kind of metal tray under the heat lamp.  Place the tray on something non-flammable for example some small glass drinking glasses or anything made of metal or glass, so the bottom of the tray (which will get hot) is not in direct contact with any possible flammable surface below it. 

Also for obvious fire safety reasons, do not leave any kind of heat lamp or toaster oven or anything else of that type unattended.  You should be able to glance over at it to see that it's safe, until the process is finished.

Kenny C

I've baked many parts in my kitchen oven. No problems with the taste of food or any explosions so far. I've been doing it for almost a year. I am not worried about it in the least. I've also baked cords.
In memory of
  Marie B.
1926-2010

liteamorn

If I had a light I would use that. I do have a toaster oven and I think that will be where I bake it. Waht grade sandpaper would be best? it has a few pock marks , almost pit marks where some of the paint is off. I like to clean them up too.