295A subset generates busy signal

[Sargeguy]

My as removed from service 295A subset ($32.50 from eBay) hooked up to my reliable B1 manual set.  The phone appears to be wired as per the usual schematic on the door, and looks like it has never been rewired.  When hooked up it generates a busy signal.  There is movement in the ringer when I touch L2 with the line.  Assuming the wiring is okay, and the ringer works, before I start dismantling it, any troubleshooting tips?

[poplar1]

Do you think the condenser may be shorted? Try disconnecting the ringer temporarily.

[Sargeguy]

Looks like that may be the problem.  With the ringer detached it no longer breaks tone.  I will rummage through the subset pile for a replacement

[LarryInMichigan]

You can always leave the original condenser in place and hide a small new capacitor next to it.

Larry

[poplar1]

I thought it would not break dial tone with the ringer connected; in other words, the ringer because of the shorted condenser is effectively across the line and making it busy. But you are saying that with the ringer disconnected it still won't break dial tone?

[Sargeguy]

With ringer attached I get a busy signal when I dial in
With ringer detached and no phone, my phones ring normally when I dial in.
With 40AL attached, does not break tone with hookswitch depressed
With B1 attached, does not break tone with hookswitch depressed

[poplar1]

Are you saying you cannot break dial tone even with the ringer disconnected?

When I put a short across the condenser, this busies out the line and I cannot break dial tone with the ringer connected. With the short still there, when I disconnect the ringer, the line is no longer busied out and I can break dial tone, but there is also a pop in the receiver when I hang up.

[poplar1]

Also, if red ringer wire is on L2 instead of C, this will also busy out the line because the ringer coils are directly across the line.

[Sargeguy]

I either get a busy signal with the ringer attached when I dial in, or I can't break tone when I push the switchhook on the manual set when the ringer is not attached.  The ringer (black and white wires) is connected correctly.  I need to backtrack and do some troubleshooting of my wiring, unplug all those party line phones, etc. and rule out other causes. 

[poplar1]

A quick way to check the secondary circuit which includes the receiver and capacitor is to remove the transmitter. The dial tone should go away and you will have a "monitor" (like the butt sets where you can hear another phone going off hook or incoming ring current without the line going off hook). If the condenser is shorted, you will still have dial tone with the transmitter removed. (This also works with 302s and AE 40s, but not with 500s.)

Another indication of possible problem with the secondary circuit is the loud pop when you hang up.

However, I am unable to duplicate the problem you are having with breaking dial tone, with the ringer disconnected, even when I short the capacitor.

I haven't tried shorting either of the windings of the induction coil.

[HowardPgh]

The condenser does double duty in the older subset, talking and ringing.
Try hooking a good phone at your connection and then hook up the subset to your connection. When you hook up the 295a, see if there is a drop in volume in the working phone. Your symptom sounds like a bad condenser, if all the other wiring is correct.-Howard