Cheater Subset for Testing a WE D1/202

[Ed Morris]

Several years ago Phonesrfun described a cheater subset that can be used in place of a subset for B1 and D1 phones.  I tracked down the original thread and built his cheater subset to test a D1/202 I had just finished up. 

I wasn't sure if the polarity of  the 2uF capacitor mattered in this particular circuit.  From Bill G's photos, I could see that the positive terminal of the 2uF cap was connected to the green lead from the phone, so I hooked mine up that way, and it worked fine.  The other component is a 220 ohm 1/2 watt resistor.

Using the cheater, I was able to test the receiver for dial  tone, and check the dial using a BK 1045.  Plugged in to the house line, I could dial out, and hear and talk on the phone.  Audio quality was surprisingly good.

[ThePillenwerfer]

I've managed to track down the original description of the cheater and the capacitor in that is a non-polarised electrolytic, denoted by having a 'waist' at each end.  It would be useful if you could put a voltmeter across the cap in yours to make sure it is the right way 'round. 

[TelePlay]

In 2011, I bought a D1 that had the cheater built into the base.



the full topic on that phone is at this link:

     http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=5953.0

Lot of discussion on the forum about using these but you device is the first, and handiest, of them all.

I used the WE caps in my rebuilt AE lamp phone project in the ringer circuit



which worked out well being old and the right value. Those large piles of used parts come in handy at times.

     http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=16425.msg178768#msg178768

     

[Ed Morris]

Polarity is correct.  Funny, I didn't even notice until I looked at the original photos again that the capacitor was non-polarized.  I guess I got lucky.  Here is one of Phonesrfun's photos from the original thread:

[Dan/Panther]

Are these cheater subsets for testing purposes, or can they be permanently installed on the incoming line.
Also, will this interfere, or cause any damage to a phone with a builtin subset ?

D/P

[Ed Morris]

I would defer to the experts on the advisability of long-term use, but I made mine for testing.  However, I understand that some people do install them in the base of their 102's and 202's and use them permanently.  Of course, there is no ringer with a cheater subset.

[TelePlay]

The D1 I received with the cheater



discussed here

     http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=5953.msg71067#msg71067

came with the cheater and a modular line cord so as received, it would could be plugged directly into the wall (no subset), dial out and answer calls if another ringer was in the house to hear an incoming call, or an external ringer.

Over the forum, some knowledgeable members said it is fine to do that, others disagreed.

The caps that came with mine were old WE caps (1976 and I suspect WE stopped making caps a long time ago or someone more recently had a stockpile of them). IIRC, the cheater protects the handset elements, especially if the phone has an E1 handset by making the phone look like it has a ringer (resistors) and a capacitor to pass and handle the ring voltage without frying the handset.

That's all I know.

[markosjal]

I would defer to the experts on the advisability of long-term use, but I made mine for testing.  However, I understand that some people do install them in the base of their 102's and 202's and use them permanently.  Of course, there is no ringer with a cheater subset.

enter the cigar box ringer!
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=19777.msg202707

[Babybearjs]

interesting way to get the phone to work without the traditional parts.... I udes to be able to pickup modular kacks at the dollar store... haven't had to look lately, but one thing I try to do is if the jack has the 8 holes for the different spade connections, I'll try to add a few screws to the block to make is lake what you guys did.... using an old jack as a terminal block doesn't hurt!  besides, isin't that what the 42A originally was???

[markosjal]

interesting way to get the phone to work without the traditional parts.... I udes to be able to pickup modular kacks at the dollar store... haven't had to look lately, but one thing I try to do is if the jack has the 8 holes for the different spade connections, I'll try to add a few screws to the block to make is lake what you guys did.... using an old jack as a terminal block doesn't hurt!  besides, isin't that what the 42A originally was???

I love these jacks (see pic from Cigar box ringer). They have holes for 8 screws, two modular jacks and are smaller than those of 42A size.  I buy these for about $1 US each at a hardware store. I have even mounted them inside some phones to give them an Internal modular jack, and on older phones i use it with round line cords with molded modular plugs on both ends to keep it authentic looking . It has four conductors to the jacks so it is ready for a lighted princess dial or a 2 line phone.

As for the cheater subset if you just want to show a phone as "working" it is okay but I do believe the Mini Styleline network is the way to go , especially if you have enough conductors on the line cord, or enough space for internal mounting. I have tested a lot with a WE 202 with F1 handset. The anti sidetone of the styleine network does keep my own voice from making me go deaf in one ear. For continued ongoing use, a real network is far more desirable. I get annoyed when the sidetone is not "just right" . Having just the right amount of sidetone also is an indicator that I do not have a failing carbon mic element. I guess that is why I can not stand modern cell phones.


Mark

[AL_as_needed]

This is a crafty sub-set idea, may go this way with my D1. I Like the idea of having an all modular connection as it could  be moved from phone to phone without having to rewire anything. One sub set does it all.