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Testing my S/C 1216 - Pick a wire, any wire...

Started by Greg G., July 18, 2011, 06:06:27 PM

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Greg G.

I started to take the dial out to send off to Steve Hilsz, but stopped when it occurred to me I should hook it up first to see if I at least get a dial tone.  The dial needs some TLC, does not return on it's own.  Plus from looking at how it's mounted, it's going to be a task just removing it.

Anyway, I slit open the cloth cover on the stubby line cord, and am not sure which wires I need to just hook it up to test it.  I know it's only a couple of them I need, but which ones?  I spread them out as best I could and only reduced the size by half so you could get a good look at them.

My first guess would be the solid red one, 3rd from the left, and the only other solid color which is 10th from the left.  Appears to be either a dark green or black.

The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Russ Kirk

I am far from an expert at wiring in these older sets,  but my guess is to try the standard telecom color codes.

There are many different color code schemes. 

I have not seen one for 9 pairs like in your photo.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/25-pair_color_code

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair
- Russ Kirk
ATCA & TCI

gpo706

That looks a much of wiring conundrum as a 12 key Dictograph wire...
"now this should take five minutes, where's me screwdriver went now..?"

Adam

That's a great color code chart for the standard 25 pair cable, but not applicable to older style multi-button phones, I'm afraid.

I seem to recall these older cables started with Red and Green as pair one and Black and Yellow as pair two, then went on to the striped ones.  So, your idea of trying the solids first is a good hunch.

There aren't that many, you should be able to get it just by trial and error.  Pick one as the first wire in a pair, then try to complete the pair using the other 17 one at a time.  No go?  Pick the next one, then try the other 17.  Etc.  Etc.
Adam Forrest
Los Angeles Telephone - A proud part of the global C*Net System
C*Net 1-383-4820

LarryInMichigan

Have you looked at any of the documents at: www.strombergcarlsontelephone.com?  Even if you exact model is not mentioned, other models may have used the same color coding.

Larry

Greg G.

Silly me, I forgot I found the schematics tucked away in the phone:
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

LarryInMichigan

Quote from: Brinybay on July 20, 2011, 06:02:17 AM
Silly me, I forgot I found the schematics tucked away in the phone:

That would be too easy ;)


Greg G.

#7
I need some help identifying the wires and interpreting the wiring diagram. I tried hooking it up with a couple wires I thought would be correct, but it's totally dead.  I tested the transmitter and receiver elements in an identical working SC handset, they function.   I tried dialing the extension it was on and pick up the handset to see if there was a connection, but there wasn't any.  

There seems to be more wires on the phone than in the diagram.  I counted 13 wires in the diagram, not including the red, white in bold on the far right and the black on the left.  The phone has 18 wires.  I tried what I thought was the red and white wires (per the diagram), but looking at it again, what I thought might be a faded red is actually the solid orange, there is no solid red wire.  Could the line cord have been separate from all these?  Since it was just cut off and appears that nobody has ever tinkered with it (judging from the condition), I'm assuming that nobody would have taken the time to remove a separate line cord, but I could be wrong.

The other thing I'm wondering is I'm doing the testing w/o the buzzer attached to the base plate.  I don't know if that's needed to complete a circuit of some sort?  The green/red wire is attached to the buzzer, but I'm not sure of the color of the other wire except that it's not black/red, appears to be black/white.  I know nothing of electronics.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Russ Kirk

#8
Boy,  this is tough one.  Using the schematic and photo of the splayed end my guess - and it is a huge guess - is...

Schematic From left to right
1=Black
2=red white
3=blue green
4=blue brown
5=green white
6=blue
7=orange
8=brown
9=slate
10=blue orange
11=orange green
12=blue white
13=orange white
14=black white
15=red
16=white
17=black red
18=green red

the color of the splayed ends, counting L-R from only the very tips (left to right) are...
13=orange white
6=blue
15=red
12=blue white
2=red white
4=blue brown
5=green white
16=white
9=slate
1=Black
8=brown
18=green red
11=orange green
7=orange
14=black white
3=blue green
10=blue orange
? mystery color (white ? again?)

I cannot find
17=black red

This is only a guess and you will be best judge of colors.  One would think that when one strips the cable back to expose fresh wire the original colors would be there.
- Russ Kirk
ATCA & TCI

Greg G.

#9
Here's a better pic of the two that appear to be white.  One appears to be a very light greenish color, but I'm not sure.

The other possibility I thought of is to remove the remaining line cord altogether and start from scratch, attaching a simpler line cord.  This is only going to function as a single-line phone anyway.  If that's a workable solution, I would just need to know where in the phone they need to be attached.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Greg G.

One other test I would like to make is to see if the buzzer actually functions separate from the phone.  I have a gizmo from Radio Shack, but I don't know how to use it for this purpose, or, is there an easy way to rig the buzzer to a phone that works to see if it buzzes?
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

LarryInMichigan

You can use your multi-meter to measure the resistance across the buzzer to verify that it is not open.  To make the buzzer buzz, you need a low DC voltage, probably 24V.  You will need some sort of power supply for that.

Larry