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Rust, mold, dead bugs and cobwebs...

Started by Greg G., July 13, 2010, 10:17:27 PM

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Greg G.

...but by golly, it was made in USA by Ma Bell so it still works!  Got a 5302 for $5 today.  This was a CL find sent to me by another forum member, LarryInMichigan.  It was a bit of a drive, one hour south of me, but it worked out that a friend who lives halfway there needed some help.  So after helping him, I just continued south.

Didn't get a dial tone at first, tried dialing anyway, then I heard the dial tone, but then it quit.  Hang up, start over, same thing.  Did like they do in the movies, jiggle the switch hook.  That worked!  Switch hook was literally covered in cobwebs and a dead insect of some sort, probably the one that made the cobwebs.

Typical with the 302 bases (or so I was told and am finding out is true) the screw holding the condenser bracket is missing, but it's also missing a base screw.  The case is in otherwise good shape, no cracks or major gouges, just dirty and moldy.  One cradle ear is a little bit banged up, but it's relatively minor.  Has a vintage number card from the scenic town of Port Orchard, just a ferry ride away from me.  (But the phone was on this side of the water).  G1 handset with a straight cord and all matching dates from 1-16-56.  Shell date is 5-22-56, base date 8-40.

The line cord had a cut end, no spade tips.  I bared the red, green, yellow wires only to find some pita cotton fibers surrounding them.  How the hell do I separate the thin tinsel wires from those?  Easy, just flicked my BIC and burned them off.  Crude, but effective.

I'm going to have to learn to remove rust and corrosion.  I haven't had to really deal with that much with all my other phones.  What's the best way to get at all the nooks and crannies?  It would be easier if they weren't riveted to the base.  What do y'all use to clean up the terminals and what-not?
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Greg G.

#1
More pics.  What's with the number "6" on the finger stop?  I just noticed that.  My other 5302 has it too.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Dan

Nice find. I would use Brasso on the metal with a toothbrush to get in the nooks and crannies.

I like the 500 style handset on the 5302's because it is easier to cradle on your shoulder than a F-3.

5302's are cool to me because the 302 ring jumps out of a 500 (I know the differences) body and I like a 302 old school ring.

Love the straight handset cord too, it makes it all the more unique.
"Imagine how weird telephones would look if our ears weren't so close to our mouths." - Steven Wright

AE_Collector

The 6 on the fingerstop indicates that it is a #6 dial (as far as I know).

Terry

Kenny C

In memory of
  Marie B.
1926-2010

AE_Collector


JorgeAmely

Greg:

I would do a complete teardown. Remove rust with an old brush and some polishing compound, like N2. For electrical components, Q tips and alcohol should be enough. For tougher stains, I use lighter fluid and for even tougher stuff, acetone or lacquer thinner. However, keep the last two away from soft plastic.

OxyClean and a small brush is also good to remove mold and grime. A generous rinse with soap and water won't hurt it. Now that summer is here, put the washed components outside for a day to dry well or use compressed air.

PS: Remove leather feet before washing the base with water.
Jorge

Kenny C

Briny,
i take the rust off with Brasso and be careful about the dates when you put it in the water with soap it can take the date stamp off.
In memory of
  Marie B.
1926-2010

Greg G.

Quote from: JorgeAmely on July 13, 2010, 10:56:36 PM
Greg:

I would do a complete teardown. Remove rust with an old brush and some polishing compound, like N2. For electrical components, Q tips and alcohol should be enough. For tougher stains, I use lighter fluid and for even tougher stuff, acetone or lacquer thinner. However, keep the last two away from soft plastic.

OxyClean and a small brush is also good to remove mold and grime. A generous rinse with soap and water won't hurt it. Now that summer is here, put the washed components outside for a day to dry well or use compressed air.

PS: Remove leather feet before washing the base with water.

The feet are the only things on the base attached with screws.  Everything else is riveted on.  Wouldn't the water damage the electronics?  I want to preserve the date stamps also.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

JorgeAmely

#9
No water on the microphone or speaker. You can wash the other components (cords, handset, plastic housing, hook switch, etc) and as long as you dry them off relatively quickly (within 10 minutes after exposure or so), you should not have any problems. Clean all electrical contacts with alcohol if possible.

In my experience, the orange ink marks tolerate water, but no pressurized water. No brushes over them either, just a very brief exposure to water. No hot water either.  Alcohol WILL take away ink marks. The housing date print is more tolerant of water, never lost one so far. You don't need to get the ringing capacitor wet. The induction coil can be washed and dried quickly.

That is pretty much the procedure I follow and so far <knock on wood> I am happy with the results.

Since your phone got wet once, I am sure there is some rust inside the dial. You can take the numbers wheel off and two more components to clean rust off the dial without taking gears apart.

Please post pictures of your progress. I am sure you will get helpful hints from the rest of the audience also.
Jorge

Greg G.

Plastic and cords I know, it's the electrical parts I've never messed with cleaning.  I'm going to start a separate thread in the Troubleshooting and Repair section on the progress.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

LarryInMichigan

Briny,

That's not bad for $5.  With a little bit of work, you should have a great phone.

I use a small wire brush with a rotary tool for removing dirt, rust, and corrosion from bare metal parts.  It does an excellent job on electrical connections and also on things like finger stops.  I usually use it to clean the dirt and oxidation from the backs of transmitters/receivers and also on the spades at the ends of the various wires.  This makes for better electrical connections and helps eliminate static.

Larry


Dennis Markham

Larry, that's what I use also--with my Dremmel tool.  One has to be careful though because those little bristles fly out.  Watch your eyes. They'll stick to clothing too.  I wear a leather apron when I'm using the tool and cleaning parts.  I have had to dig those little bristles out of my skin a time or two.  But they really do the job.  I buy the brushes at Home Depot but they have them at other places.  I prefer the steel ones vs the brass brushes.  They're great for cleaning the screw heads and threads.  Once they start to wear down the fit into the slots better.

When I clean the screw heads I use that brush.  Then as a final cleaning I a dollop of Semichrome polish on a towel that use as a mat under my parts as I'm working on them.  I spread the polish and then holding the shaft of the screw, run the screw head over the polish--back and forth a few times and then moving  to a clean area of the towel I buff it.  Makes those screws, nuts, etc., nice and shiny.