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"The phone is a remarkably complex, simple device,
and very rarely ever needs repairs, once you fix them." - Dan/Panther

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#81
@Larry
I, like you, use Ooma. I opted to put a Panasonic mini-PBX between my Ooma Telo and my rotary phones to deal with the pulse to tone, and ringer current issues. The Telo is great for what it is, but the Grandstream 802 handles multiple "genuine Bell" phones better (though Ooma's ~$6/mo is hard to beat)
#82
As Larry describes it, it fits my experience too, and even some telco lines has the same characteristics. My guess is that the telco uses similar equipment in their end of the line that we use on voip.  If you coose an VOIP company that allows you to use your own equipment (like Callcentric) you may chose an adapter like Grandstream HT802 that accepts rotary dial, and has a pretty good ringing capacity.  (That is the best adapter I have tested that accepts rotary phones)
#83
Quote from: Larry on April 16, 2024, 10:15:15 PMClarification.  The subset will ring one very short ding-a-ling and then stops ringing.

The problem is that the Telo device only provides enough ringing current for one or two ringers.  I have a Dialgizmo connected to my Telo device to convert pulse dialing to tones, and I only connect at most two ringers at a time.  On many of my phones and subsets, I have connected a resistor, between 2K and 4K, in series with the ringer to decrease the current draw.  This way, I can usually have two active ringers connected at any given time. 

Larry
#84
My local telephone company has discontinued pulse dialing on their service.  So, my vintage rotary phones with subsets are out of commission.  There must be a way to continue using them on a VoIP service like Ooma.com.  I signed up for the service.  Ooma uses a Telo adapter for residential customers.  I was told my rotary phones would work on their system.  Well, they do and they don't. I connected the Telo adapter directly to a wall phone jack so that I can use all wall phone jacks in my home.  I have it configured that way now.  The rotary phones will not dial out but I can receive calls.  But the subsets do not ring.  Do the subsets need to be rewired in order for them to ring?  Is there a way I can dial out on the rotary phone?  If I used the HT801 to connect the rotary phones, is that all I need?  I guess, in short, I'm asking how to do all this with what equipment.  I've been a member of this group for a few years, but I have not needed much help until now.  Thanks!.  Larry
#85
The location of the connected dial wires is in #22 with pictures. The green is not connected. The line wires are pictured below with arrows. As described and photographed earlier there are no clear model model number or date stamped on the base. I will check the other 4 when I get back on the ship Thursday.
#86
Well, thank you for your efforts nonetheless, they are much appreciated. By the way, the fish-eyeing I speak of was on bare metal wiped down with only solvent the day before then blown off before painting, not between paint and primer, as I never got that far, and a bead blasted surface is certainly rougher then a 400 grit sanded surface, but that's neither here nor there.

I'm not sure I have a unique painting issue just to me, though it is certainly nothing like I've ever dealt with in my decades of painting so far. Of course that is why I broke down and asked about it here, hoping that someone may have had similar issues. I'm at a loss myself. I guess all I can do is keep trying things, letting it dry for a while, then testing for adhesion. Maybe something will finally stick, pun intended. I find it hard to believe that I'm the only one unable to get paint to stick on these phones (given the consistent issues I've had over multiple, differing attempts) but maybe I am just that special. I don't know.

In the mean time, if anyone else has any other advise or experience to share, it would be much appreciated as well. Thanks again to every who has and will contribute.
#87
I'm at a loss.

However, I would not apply paint to a surface bead blasted or rubbed with steel wool without first going over the item with acetone and then 400 grit paper to give the clean surface the roughness needed for the paint to hold on to.

If you heat the item prior to painting, any solvent or water on the surface will be driven off.

I've taken fresh paint off due to finding a flaw or run.

What I think you call fish eyeing may be an incompatibility between primer and finish coat.

It seems you have a unique painting problem which only you can determine the cause of and the solution to. Several of us have offered help which doesn't seem to be sufficient to resolve your problems.

Good luck, and let us know about your progress.
#88
 What is the complete model number and  date stamped on the base of the one telephone that is marked? (I can't find anything about a 9-X dial.)

The "transformer" is called a network. That the 2 white dial wires go to terminals R and GN on the network confirms that these dial contacts short out the receiver whenever the dial is turned. (You can temporarily remove one of the white dial wires to confirm that the dial tone does not go away while turning the dial clockwise.)

Now, if you could please state the terminals for the other 2 connected dial wires + the red, green, and yellow wires in the silver satin line cord, and any other wires on the same terminals as the above 5 wires. I just can't see the letters next to all the terminals on the network. I think the 3 terminals on the black strip are 10, 11, and 1.

Also, I am wondering if the Dimension PBX has modified LC2 circuit packs for 2-party lines.

Input to a standard network is C and RR. Output is GN (receiver), B (transmitter), and R (other transmitter wire + other receiver wire.) In order for the phone not to be off-hook all the time, the circuit is interrupted by both the line switch (one or both sides of the line) and also by the dial pulsing contacts (continuity between the dial pulsing contacts except while opened corresponding to the number dialed).
#89
I actually sanded everything by hand with 150 when I initially striped the original finish from them. Stripping off the failed attempts in between I used course (#3) steel wool, which took off the new paint super easily, even after three months. Now I've bead blasted the one phone case with glass bead in a blasting cabinet but the paint fish-eyed horribly, I'm assuming due to solvent I had used to wipe it down the day before getting trapped in the more porous surface after blasting.
#90
Have you taken the surface to 400 grit to give the paint something to adhere too?

If too smooth, paint won't adhere well.