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Restoring a modified Gray 23D Paystation

Started by oyang, November 11, 2015, 02:36:54 PM

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oyang

Thanks guys; it IS innocent and cute looking; I agree. It's funny to look at, with that big dial crowding the front.  One thing I discovered while working on it is that the receiver was lowered to make room for the dial. This was done by reusing the lower screw hole as the new upper screw hole, and adding a new lower screw hole.

Now on to making the insides work too.  I'm attaching the N-205 network instructions I'm following (I added colors to correspond to the wire colors I see on the mini network), and the final wiring scheme I designed and implemented.  I get no dial tone.  I swapped out the HA1 receiver with one I know works, and that was not the problem.  The solid lines are the soldered connections that I left in place from the original wiring; these I had checked before and confirmed were good.

Could I get some fresh eyes to make sure I didn't wire something incorrectly?

Thanks!

Otto
"In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they aren't."

unbeldi

#31
If things don't work, a real circuit diagram shows always why something isn't working.

So, here is the diagram for the board, without anything attached. The locations of the receiver and transmitter are indicated. RX=black/yellow, TX = red/green.

So, for a first approximation to make a working set, you only need to connect the line to L1 and L2, after connecting receiver and transmitter. Should get dial tone.
Then you insert a hookswitch into either the L1 or L2 line connection.  Next, you insert the dial pulse contacts (Y, BK) behind the line switch to be able to dial.  The rest is modifications to protect the ears from loud pops, and if you wish you can shunt the entire set during dialing with the remaining off-normal switches.


In your wiring instruction diagram, you have Line 2 going through hookswitch to dial pulse switch into pink wire point L1.   So that is ok, as I outlined, only you have it going into the other line side. No big deal.
That means the white wire (L2) needs to go to the other line side, Line 1.  That is fulfilled by the connection via dial terminal R.  ok.

The diagram shunts R to pink when the dial is operated, which is good.  The Western Electric circuit doesn't do that though.
The remaining contact, BB-WH, is intended to complete the receiver circuit when the dial is at rest.  It opens during dialing.  So, it needs to be connected between the receiver and one of the terminals.  Let's connect yellow to BB and the receiver to WH, the other receiver lead goes to black wire.
Ok, so the diagram is correct.
... and your traces too, it seems.

oyang

Thanks for the tips; I'll start systematically unhooking and reattaching connections.

Here is a shot in better light of the refinish.  The satin paint didn't give me the smooth surface I intended, but I like the way it is textured and will leave it. 

Otto
"In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they aren't."

oyang

For those who haven't heard one of these in action....
"In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they aren't."

unbeldi

Immensely cute, and enviable, and I do like the finish too.
Very nicely done.

unbeldi

The difference in sound between a nickel and a dime is pretty hard to hear though, I wonder if it is more distinguished when listening remotely through the transmitter.

Does your coin chute have a coin rejector to return coins that are placed into the wrong slot?

oyang

Nickels are one ding on the bell, and dimes are two dings on the bell.  Quarters are one dong on the coil.

There is no rejector. Either a penny or dime through the nickel slot will give one ding.  Nickel dime or penny through the quarter slot are silent, presumably because they are too small to contact the coil.  I guess it was an honor system that a penny wasn't being used?  Or perhaps my chute isn't functioning properly to keep a penny from hitting the bell.
"In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they aren't."