Another 302

[olderdude60]

Hello all - bless my brother!  I was glad to find out my 302's were thermoplastic and not bakelite! 

He found a 3-52I 302 at a yard sale and got it for $5.  It has a curly receiver cord, with a F1 handset.  Case has H1 stamped on the inside; dial is a 105B IV 49 with 5H on the back of it; base also has 3-52I.  The case, (thermoplastic right?) is badly scratched, sale sticker glue, and some blotches.  No cracks at all in the case!  YEAH!

This case is sandable correct?  I like to know the grits before I begin to do anything to it.  Dirty inside - cords are both okay.  I don't have pictures yet but will post some before's and afters.

Any other ideas on this phone that I should know?

Thanks
Jim

[poplar1]

I think you mean the dial is a 5H with a 150B number plate (which makes it a 5HB dial as equipped).

[RotarDad]

Jim,

I would recommend the topic "Sanding Plastic - Tips & Techniques" as a good place to start.  Yes, the thermoplastic will sand and clean up very well.  With sanding, the general rule is to use only the roughest grit needed to remove the scratch.  In sanding WE 500 Tenite (thermoplastic) shells, I often start with 1000 wet/dry and work my way up with many finer grits and finish with Novus 2 polish.  If yours is badly scratched, you may need coarser grits.  The second general rule is to change sanding directions by 90 degrees with each finer grit (don't keep sanding the same direction).  The third rule is to be patient.  Once you start sanding, you are committed.  You have to go through the grits carefully to ensure all the sand marks are completely removed.  Done carefully, you can sand out scratches on a clear plastic fingerwheel and have a glass-like finished result.   One last thought - start on a small area that has some scratches and go through all the grits/polish to get a feel.  Your 302 sounds like a good place to start sanding: not a rare item, and the price was right!

Paul

[olderdude60]

Here are some pictures showing the condition of the thermoplastic case.  I asked in the sanding/painting forum for demos?  No response. 

So my questions:

How much will I need of the various grits for the wet sanding process?

I've never done wet-sanding - so not quite sure of the process that's where a picture would help me a lot.

Here are the pictures - it's predominantly the case that's scratched - the handset looks in good shape.

Thanks for all on post to help!

Jim

[HarrySmith]

Wet sanding is a tedious process. Takes a lot of time and patience. It is not extremely difficult, simply keep the piece and/or the sandpaper wet. I have done it in the kitchen sink with the water just barely running on the piece while sanding. It may be hard to tell from the pictures but I do not see anything that I would resort to sanding on. I would use Novus on it, much easier and faster than sanding.

[RotarDad]

Jim,

You may want to start by cleaning the case with soapy water, and then use the Novus 2 polish as Harry suggested.  See what it looks like after you clean and polish.  You may decide it looks pretty good, especially in normal room light.  If you have some bad scratches, then you could try to wet sand them out.   It all depends on what you want the end result to be.  In my experience, starting with 1000 and working up (1500, 2000, 3000, etc.) usually will get the job done unless the scratch is very deep.  However, the thermoplastic will shine up very nicely with only the Novus and some scratches are just part of a 60 year lifespan.

On wet/dry paper, you probably won't need much.  The water will rinse out the paper so you can keep using it.  Take a look at Ebay item 380376024864 for an example of an assortment of papers that could work.  I am using this set now and for $9 shipped, you'll have enough for many, many phones or other projects.  I have one additional finer grit I use before the polish (5000 or similar).

Sanding is trial & error.  Just start sanding in one direction with a grit you think will tackle the scratch.  Then check to ensure the scratch is indeed gone.  Then go to the next higher grit and sand in the cross direction (90 degrees).  Then go back to the first direction with the next grit and so on.  Keep a little water flowing to rinse the phone and paper frequently.  Work in good light.  Black is not shy about showing flaws.  If you didn't get it smooth enough, you'll need to go back to the lower grits and start again.

Paul

[Doug Rose]

If it looks like a lot of elbow grease will be involved, I will use the cheaper Noxon or Brasso first and save the Norvus II for the final application. They work amazingly well. I am betting this will turn out great with out the sanding. I have save much worse. Goo be gone will take the sticker residue off. I always Test the goo be gone or goo off first on the inside of the phone to be sure its safe as it will melt fingerwheels...Doug

[Babybearjs]

I clean my phones in hot water with dishwasher detergent. this seems to work real good for me. hope you can get good results. my phones have always cleaned up real good!  John

[RotarDad]

Doug - I think I have some Brasso somewhere and I'll have to try it.  It makes sense that metal polish will be more abrasive than plastic polish.  If I'm willing to go 1000 grit, Brasso is certainly less aggressive and may save a ton a work.  Thanks for mentioning that.

John - It is amazing what a little soap and water will do.  I'll bet many of the phones we collect were seldom, if ever, cleaned in their entire lives.  Of course, that's what makes it fun for us to bring them back to life.

[olderdude60]

Well I'm in the process of using Novus on it - I tried some Bar Keepers friend in a couple spots seemed to be okay with lots of water.  I do have some deeper scratches and I've been scrubbing my fingers off on one or two of them.....you mentioned elbow grease - dang i'm about to resort to a power sander ......just kidding!  I may leave some of them though......after all it is almost as old as me......

I'll post pictures when I'm satisfied!   Oh, can one soak cords in the Oxi-clean?

Used denatured alcohol on it, it still seems a bit dirty.

Jim

[RotarDad]

I have not tried the Oxyclean approach.  I use a retail cleaner called Krud Kutter on rubber and plastic cords, which I pour into a small container so I can dip the cords in (being careful to not let the cleaner get inside).  This stuff works so well, I usually just have to dip for a minute and then rinse them off in water.  You really want to dissolve the grease/grim without having to work on it much, especially on hard-to-reach coil cords.

[Doug Rose]

I have not tried the Oxyclean approach.  I use a retail cleaner called Krud Kutter on rubber and plastic cords, which I pour into a small container so I can dip the cords in (being careful to not let the cleaner get inside).  This stuff works so well, I usually just have to dip for a minute and then rinse them off in water.  You really want to dissolve the grease/grim without having to work on it much, especially on hard-to-reach coil cords.

Hey Paul...nice tip. I'll give it a shot...thanks...Doug

[RotarDad]

Doug - I was fortunate with the Krud Kutter - my wife bought it to help with laundry stains.  I was looking for a better way to clean coil cords, and I was amazed how well it worked.  It is also natural and biodegradable so there's no chemical issues.  Paul