Western Electric 233G Pay Station without subset

[Rocky]

I have a 233G with no subset. It has many disconnected and cut wires. I would appreciate any information on where to find a wiring diagram and the best way to make it work as just an extension in my garage. There is another phone at the other end of the garage so no ringer is necessary. The long, flat contacts on the right hand side of the back half have been insulated from each other with tape. There is no lock so the case has been drilled and tapped to hold the two halves together, and when one screw is screwed all the way in, it touches the contact on the front half. I don't know if this is on purpose. I read about a mini network instead of a network out of a 500.
Any information on where I should start would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Rocky

[poplar1]

Originally, there would not have been the red, white and black wires that are now attached to the upper housing contacts. Rather, the upper housing contacts would make contact with the contacts in the lower housing when the phone was closed, as you found out. Since there is now tape on those transfer contacts on the back, it appears that the reseller just used installed the red white and black wires to connect the two parts of the phone.

You can use either type network you mentioned, with or without a ringer, if you don't want to invest in a complete subset. One possibility  is to install the network in the vault area.

[mentalstampede]

You can get mini networks from phoneco for $10 or so. They are tiny enough to go pretty much anywhere.

[poplar1]

Here is a previous post from one of our members, phonesrfun, showing connections with a 425 network from a 500 set:

OK, assuming you are using a 500 set as a network, make sure all the hookswitch contacts for the old 500 have been disconnected from the 425 network inside the 500 base.

The network inside the 500 base will be labeled 425 and then a dash letter, I.E. 425-B, E or some other suffix.  I will refer to that network as a 425.


Line cord wires:
Connect the red line cord wire to L2 of the 425 network, and the green line cord wire to  L1 (Same connections as a model 500 phone.

Ringer wires:
Connect the red ringer wire to L2 on the 425; connect the black ringer wire to L1 on the 425; connect the slate ringer wire to K on the 425, and connect the slate/red ringer wire to A on the 425.  This is the same wiring that the original 500 has too.

Place a short jumper wire between L1 on the 425 and C on the 425.

Payphone handset (Assumes this is a G handset with 4 wires...Black, Red, White, White)
Red handset wire and one White handset wire to TR on the black terminal strip at the top of the lower housing.  (Either white wire will do)
Black handset wire to T on the black terminal strip at the top of the lower housing
Other white handset wire will go to terminal GN on the payphone hookswitch.


Connections between the subset (500 model phone with 425 network) (5 wires)

Wire 1 between L2 on the 425 network and terminal Y on the payphone hookswitch
Wire 2 between RR on the 425 network and terminal R on the payphone hookswitch
Wire 3 between R on the 425 network and TR on the black terminal strip at the top of the lower housing
Wire 4 between B on the 425 network and T on the black terminal strip at the top of the lower housing
Wire 5 between GN on the 425 network and terminal W on the payphone hookswitch.

Make sure there is a jumper between terminals BBX and BB on the payphone hookswitch

That should do it.  All this assumes, of course, that nobody has messed around with the dial wiring, or the configuration of the transfer contact points between the upper and lower housing.  If that is the case, then there will be more work involved.

Also, when replacing the upper housing, always do so with the phone off hook, otherwise the flimsy little brass tab that controls the bent coin release can get bent and break off.

Good luck.

[poplar1]

Don't be shy about removing all the aftermarket wiring:

Wires currently on BBX, Y, SL and GN on the hook switch and the white, and the red and black wires added in the upper housing.

Check the dial cord wiring to make sure the wires with spade tips on them are connected as follows:

White to W    (from W on dial)
Yellow to Y     (from Y on dial)
Blue  to BB   (from BB on dial)
Red to R*      (from R on dial)
Black to BKX* (from BK on dial)

*Note: You may want to temporarily swap these two--in other words, connect black dial wire to R and red dial wire to BKX.

[Rocky]

Thank you for your prompt replies. I am going to purchase a mini network and go from there.
I will remove the after market wiring and check the dial cord connections. I assume the tape should be removed from the flat contacts also.
Thanks again. I'm sure I will be back in touch.
Rocky

[Rocky]

Well, Phoneco seems to have a server problem. Any other suggestions? Is there a name or number for the mini network I should be asking for?
Rocky

[HarrySmith]

Rocky, I have a network you can use. It is not the "mini" network referenced here but it will fit in your vault area easily. see pictures. The last picture shows it next to a 302 induction coil for size reference. I have a few of these so if anyone else needs one let me know.
You can have it for the cost of postage.

[poplar1]

Thank you for your prompt replies. I am going to purchase a mini network and go from there.
I will remove the after market wiring and check the dial cord connections. I assume the tape should be removed from the flat contacts also.
Thanks again. I'm sure I will be back in touch.
Rocky

Yes, sorry I forgot to mention removing the tape.

[Rocky]

Harry,
I truly appreciate your offer. I am new to working with a forum. How can I get the cost to you and arrange for shipping?
Rocky

[Rocky]

I am trying to wire my 233g using a 425 network with instructions from forum members. One set of instructions from poplar1 quoted from Phonesrfun says to wire to RR, R, B, and G on the network. What kind of clip or terminal should I get to make this connection? Where can I obtain what I need? Also, there are instructions to connect ringer wires. I do not need a ringer as there is another phone nearby, so do I need to add jumpers or anything? Thanks for any help.
Rocky

[poplar1]

You can just repurpose the red, white, and black wires that you remove--the ones currently connecting the two halves of the phone--and use them to make the connections to the network. Don't worry about the instructions for the ringer.

[Rocky]

Poplar1,
Unfortunatly, the two halves of the phone were wired with a plug in the middle of two groups of wires, some of them going nowhere. I have now hard wired the two halves together, as I don't trust the contacts. So I don't have any connectors or terminals to re use.
Also, there is a rectangle device which looks like it may be a condensor behind the coin drop chute on the upper housing with two slate wires. One wire is terminated to BKX and the other is loose. Where should I lay that one down? It has a forked terminal, so I assume it goes under a screw. But I still need some kind of terminal to connect the other wires to the network. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Rocky

[poplar1]

Does your 425 network have screw terminals, quick-connect terminals (for spade-tips  (forks)), or a mixture of the two?

If it has screw terminals, then any copper wire of 26 gauge or larger will work.

The capacitor with 2 green leads originally connected to A and X. The electromagnet's two green leads connected to E and A. The two brown signal transmitter wires connected to A and BKX. And the resistor connected to E and X.

However, if you reverse the red and black dial leads---black to R and red to BKX--then you don't have to worry about those 4 components for now.

[Rocky]

Poplar1,
It has a combination of the two. see attached photo..and I will reverse the red and black dial leads.
If the connections can be done with spade tips, can I get them at Radio Shack?
Thanks again,
Rocky