WE 500 C/D 425A Net won't ring

[G-Man]

Yes, all phones have been disconnected. The repair phone is the only one hooked up.

So, let's try the next step. Side question: Why would other 500s ring when hooked up, but not this one, if it was a ringing current issue?

Thanks,
Rob

Disconnecting the other phones was simply to eliminate the possibility it is a ringing current problem.

The next step would be to disconnect your ringer and re-install it in another known working 500-set.

If it works ok then there is most likely a problem with the internal ringer capacitor located inside the network between the "A" and "K" terminals.

If so then it can be repaired with using a .47 uf capacitor. But first try the substitution as outlined above to verify this is the problem.

[WesternElectricBen]

Just a guess, but move ringer red to L1 under the handset cord red. Maybe that might work then.

Ben

[Tom B]

I only have one 500 with a 425E network, and the black wire is not on L1, its wired onto the G terminal. Mine works perfectly.

[TelePlay]

The next step would be to disconnect your ringer and reinstall it in another known working 500-set.

This can be done by simply removing the ringer wires from the networks on the working and nonworking phones and using alligator clip wires to try the working ringer on the nonworking phone network or vice versa, right? Or do they have to be physically swapped out?

[HudValley]

So I swapped out two separate ringers: same problem with both.

Now something I haven't considered is that awhile ago I began using a surface mount phone jack. This is what I power the phones through, but I have not yet tested a 500 since I made this switch to the mounted jack. I did it because I like to keep the original cords and not have to modify the existing cord to fit a modular plug.

Is it possible that current is lost through the use of the jack, and, if so, can it be increased in any way.

Tom B:

The only reason the black wire is on L1 is because when it is on G, the clapper doesn't move at all, but does move when placed on L1.

Thanks,
Rob

[Mr. Bones]

     This may sound silly, but have you tried substituting a 'known-to-be-good' line cord onto the '66? You might give this a whirl, if trying a 'known-good' 500 on your (new) surface mount jack works hunky / and / or /dory.

     I am a commercial / industrial electrician, and I just repaired a decidedly Rube Goldberg-esque vehicle washing facility yesterday. Several people had been all through the various float switches, solenoids, etc., previously, to no avail. Great consternation, wailing, and gnashing of teeth was involved, on the part of the customer.

     I replaced one of the power cords, which had been nicked through one conductor, and all was well, thereafter.

     Never forget the K.I.S.S. Principle. (Don't overlook the simple solutions initially / don't over-analyze, something I am eternally (!!!) guilty of, my dang self!)

     Keep the info coming; we'll get it figured out, together, here.

Best regards!

[G-Man]

The reason the ringer in Tom B's telephone is working with the black wire located on the G terminal is because of how it is wired at the jack end so let's not be distracted by his observation.

The suggestion to connect one of the ringer wires to the red handset wire is not even close and no one gets a cigar for that one!!

It is not losing power because it is wired through a modular jack!
Since you can dial out and converse over the telephone it is wired correctly.
I have already covered this in my previous post and it would have been better if you followed my original advice to temporarily take the ringer out and put it in a known good set.

  Then we would have had rock-solid evidence that there is not a problem with the ringer. But for now we can only assume that you will need to install and external capacitor since it would seem that the ringing capacitor as was previously described, located on terminals A and K is bad.

[G-Man]

I am confused after I reread your post.

What do you mean by "So I swapped out two separate ringers: same problem with both"?

I suggested you remove the suspect from the set you are working on and put it into a 500-telephone set that is known to be in good working order.

Are you doing the reverse and taking a good ringer(s) and connecting it to the set with the suspected bad capacitor?

[HudValley]

Good day gentlemen and ladies,

So I misconstrued G-Man's advice: but corrected myself (Sorry, still new at this). However, it's still not working. In fact, none of my 500s are ringing now that I have run the connector through an intermediary jack.

So I swapped out the cord and installed a cord with a modular jack at the end, rather than the wall-mount jack. They all worked, so it seems my initial suspicion may be correct: adding the additional jack (which looks like this) is affecting the ringer's capacity to ring.

I really like the idea of using the mounted wall jack at the end of the cord so I can keep the original cord. Any ideas to increase the power to the phone?

Thanks,

Rob

[twocvbloke]

Well, if the jack itself is causing the problem, then the problem is the jack...

I'd start by replacing the jack with another to see if the problem reoccurs...

[Phonesrfun]

I only have one 500 with a 425E network, and the black wire is not on L1, its wired onto the G terminal. Mine works perfectly.

That is actually how the phones were wired originally.  It also means that the line cord has a third wire (probably yellow) that is also connected to G and is connected to the green wire at the connecting block on the other end.  This method of wiring certainly works, but if the line cord has been replaced by one with a modular end, the ringer wire will almost always have to be moved to L1 inside the phone.

[poplar1]

There are many people who install a biscuit jack like the one in your link in order to retain the original mounting cord.  (RCA® TP265/TP265X Modular Wall JackModel: TP265/TP265X |Radio Shack Catalog #: 55032920); so, it is not a matter of "increasing the power." The jack may be damaged or defective.

Maybe Bell was on to something when they used only 42A connecting blocks or 4-prong jacks for connecting 500s. I doubt that the real RCA (Radio Corporation of America) had anything to do with manufacturing the jack Radio Shack is selling. (Ditto for new "Crosley" radios, "AT&T" phones made in China by Advanced American Telephones, etc.)

[AE_Collector]

I doubt that RCA has anything to do with Radio Corporation of America!

Terry

[Phonesrfun]

I doubt that RCA has anything to do with Radio Corporation of America!

Terry

If we are discussing the little plugs and jacks prevalent in strereos commonly called RCA jacks or phono jacks, then yes, they were introducrd by RCA, a.k.a Radio Corporation of America in the 30's or 40's.  in radio sets RCA designed and sold.  At least that's my recollection.  (Truthfully, I wasn't even thought of in the 1930's or the 40's.)

[TelePlay]

Well, if the jack itself is causing the problem, then the problem is the jack. I'd start by replacing the jack with another to see if the problem reoccurs.

I might have missed something here or maybe it's just considered common knowledge but the adaptor jack may be just fine but not wired right. The proper land line conductors must be connected to the correct modular adaptor terminals to insure the phone line modular plug connects the wall wiring to L1 and L2 in the phone. This is all under the control of the person installing the jack.

The only other problem could be a bent or jammed wire insire the modular adaptor which would prevent the modular plug from making contact with the modular plug on the line cord, something I've experienced by putting a 4 or 6 line modular plug into a 6 or 4 line adaptor jack. A simple continuity tester could check that out.