network workings

[HarrySmith]

A question for the technical guys.
Last week when Dave was helping me diagnose my 554 problem he had me bypass certain parts of the network for testing. That got me to thinking, whats inside and where does it connect. I was told at one time there are 2 or 3 terminals that are not connected to anything internally, they are for connecting wires. If I recall correctly they were G and L2. I looked and could not find anything. Does anyone have a diagram of whats what inside? I know there are many different networks and there are probably many different configurations so I am looking for a generic one.
This leads me to another question about a network.
I am adding a dial light to a 5302. In order to get it to function like a 500P I will be running it through the network. As I understand it a 500P has an extra set of contacts in the switch hook to turn on the light when the receiver is lifted. The 302 does not provide that so I will have to connect to the switch hook through the network. Will putting power for the light through it cause any issues?

[Wallphone]

Harry, Look up BSP 501-135-100 Issue4 in the TCI Library < http://bit.ly/lHSMXV >. I think this will tell you what you are asking for about what is under the hood of the networks.
Doug Pav

[paul-f]

Also look at other versions, such as a 5304, to see if you can get another switch contact to use for the lamp by "converting" it to 5302 wiring.

[Phonesrfun]

Harry:

You would need a hookswitch for a 304/5304 that has the third set of contacts.  A regular 302/5302 set will not work.  The 5302 would need a separate set of contacts to wire the extra switch contacts to.  The standard induction coil in a 302/5302 is not the same as a network in a 500.

If you want to know not only what is inside of a 500 network or what is inside a 302, you should get the book by Ralph Meyer.

[deedubya3800]

Oddly, the switchhook in my 302 has three sets of contacts in it, with the third pair of wires cut off. That's how I found it. It's a non-Bell set, though, so there's no telling how that got in there.

[dsk]

We could probably use a simple way to solve that problem. The 302/5302 has 2 sets of contacts, you could lend one for the lamp.

Option #1: use the contact, and strap where it used to be, or
Option #2: just use it, without any other modifications.

I would have tried option #2.
The power-supply for the lamp could be any ac or dc adapter or a battery, as far as it is separated from ground and mains. (e.g. an old cellphone charger) You could just connect the wires to terminal GN at the induction coil, and to terminal BB at the dial.

If you get hum, try option #1.

A dc power-supply will generate less hum.



dsk

[HarrySmith]

OK, I will give that a shot. I was considering adding another set of contacts but that will be much easier.
Thanks!

[Phonesrfun]

Guys:

There are no spare sections in the standard 302 hookswitch to use for a lamp control.  The circled section shown is designed to be  used to switch the receiver in the circuit last, and out of the circuit first when activating the hookswitch.  If it were bypassed and used for a lamp control, you would always have a very annoying loud click in the receiver every time you activate the hookswitch.  If that does not bother you (It would bother me), then yes, that section of switch can be used to control a lamp.

I am not knocking your wanting to experiment, because that is the way we learn.  For sure it is the way I learned, so by all means go ahead, but I think you will find that you really want t three-section switch to do what you are wanting to try.

[HarrySmith]

Yes, trial and error is the only way to learn as far as I am concerned. That is how I got to where I am with phones, tearing them down and figuring what went where and  what it did. The same way I learned with cars all those years ago. That brings to mind a story; phone content to follow!
When I was 15 I started working at a "service station", which for you younger guys, was a neighborhood place where you bought gas and got your car fixed. I had been working on cars for 3 years before that. I was an apprentice mechanic and a pump jockey, again for you younger guys thats a person who greeted you at the gas pump, pumped your gas and checked your oil & tires. I think I was there 3 weeks when the boss told me "put the battery charger on that Buick". I went out and hooked it up, Red charger cable to Red battery cable and Black to Black. About 10 minutes later one of the guys started yelling something about burning then ran over and yanked the charger off the Buick which had smoke pouring out from under the hood. The boss called me over and asked what I did, I told him Red to Red and Black to Black. He asked if I checked where the cables went, which I had not done. I spent the next week or so rewiring everything under the hood of that Buick. I learned a lot. Including to check where the battery cables were connected not just the color. Someone had replaced the cables previously and used the wrong colors.
Now for the phone content: I tried hooking the power supply up several different ways, it worked but there was that loud click when activating the switchook, and there was clicking when dialing or flashing the light when dialing. I have added another set of contacts from a 302. Of course the pileup was now thicker so the screws did not reach so I took the screws from a 500 with the insulators to attach it. The power supply now has its own contacts on the hookswitch so the phone operation is not affected. More to follow. 

[Holtzer-Cabot]

Yes, trial and error is the only way to learn as far as I am concerned. That is how I got to where I am with phones, tearing them down and figuring what went where and  what it did. The same way I learned with cars all those years ago. That brings to mind a story; phone content to follow!
When I was 15 I started working at a "service station", which for you younger guys, was a neighborhood place where you bought gas and got your car fixed. I had been working on cars for 3 years before that. I was an apprentice mechanic and a pump jockey, again for you younger guys thats a person who greeted you at the gas pump, pumped your gas and checked your oil & tires. I think I was there 3 weeks when the boss told me "put the battery charger on that Buick". I went out and hooked it up, Red charger cable to Red battery cable and Black to Black. About 10 minutes later one of the guys started yelling something about burning then ran over and yanked the charger off the Buick which had smoke pouring out from under the hood. The boss called me over and asked what I did, I told him Red to Red and Black to Black. He asked if I checked where the cables went, which I had not done. I spent the next week or so rewiring everything under the hood of that Buick. I learned a lot. Including to check where the battery cables were connected not just the color. Someone had replaced the cables previously and used the wrong colors.
Now for the phone content: I tried hooking the power supply up several different ways, it worked but there was that loud click when activating the switchook, and there was clicking when dialing or flashing the light when dialing. I have added another set of contacts from a 302. Of course the pileup was now thicker so the screws did not reach so I took the screws from a 500 with the insulators to attach it. The power supply now has its own contacts on the hookswitch so the phone operation is not affected. More to follow.

I know this is a bit old, but great story! thanks for sharing! I am probably the only 14 year old who knows what a service station is, or who collects old phones and repairs old radios and electronics! My main phone is a 1961 500 set!

[poplar1]

Bruce Crawford of Cargill, Ontario, suggested adding a varistor in parallel with the HA1 receiver. This varistor can be connected to R and GN on the 101A induction coil.

Then you can repurpose the green and brown-blue hookswitch leads for A-lead control, or whatever. Strap BB on dial and GN on the induction coil.

Phoneco has lots of varistors -- 25 cents each last I checked. They have to remove them for the HotWired candlesticks.