Where do you buy your Capacitors

[HarrySmith]

It is not recommended to remove the coils. It has been discussed previously that they can lose their magnetism. Best to replace the ringer as an assembly.

[Contempra]

It is not recommended to remove the coils. It has been discussed previously that they can lose their magnetism. Best to replace the ringer as an assembly.

I agree ...totaly.and don't lose a strip of metal nor when you clean and do not expose to magnetic fields...

[poplar1]

When the original capacitor is open (no ring), you can just connect the new cap. to A and K.

If the original capacitor is shorted (trips ring--busies out line), you  can use either A or K + a spare terminal: For example, connect the capacitor and slate-red ringer wire to A, and the other capacitor lead and slate ringer wire to G.

[rp2813]

Thanks for the clarification.  The leads on the capacitors don't look long enough to wrap around the terminal screws, but that may be a scale issue that isn't addressed in the photos.

I'll change out the entire ringer assembly and hope that it doesn't fix the problem.  I'll be really bummed out if the birthday ringer is bad.

[poplar1]

As long as the new capacitor is connected to the slate-red and slate ringer wires, you don't have to use any screw terminals.

[DavePEI]

Some Capacitor Sources:

Esold2000 - Ebay - 10 pcs CBB 105J 400v CBB21 1 uf - $2.99 Free Ship - Ebay # 151120070175
Esold2000 -  Ebay  - 10 pcs CBB 205J 400v CBB21  2 uf $4.99  Free Ship - Ebay # 151120118637
uincelec - Ebay - 20pcs CBB capacitor metallized  0.47 uF - $3.50 + $1.50 ship - Ebay # 151225220752?

Metallized Film caps work great. Simply order the value you need. There are many eBay sellers who sell these. Best choice is to order types with longer leads than those designed for PCB mounting. These are certainly not the only sources on eBay. All of these are from China and may take some time to arrive. There are a number listed in the US, but for more $'s.

Dave

[G-Man]

It is not recommended to remove the coils. It has been discussed previously that they can lose their magnetism. Best to replace the ringer as an assembly.

Actually it is not harmful to replace the electromagnet (coil) on a C-type ringer.
What is admonished is breaking the "circuit" of the permanent magnet and frame assembly, since if it is removed, it may weaken or lose its magnetism.

[HarrySmith]

Don't you "break the circuit" if you remove the coil from the frame?

[G-Man]

Don't you "break the circuit" if you remove the coil from the frame?

The laminations that run through the coil are not magnetic unless it is energized by ringing current.

[Phonesrfun]

Don't you "break the circuit" if you remove the coil from the frame?

I think the most likely way to "break the circuit" is to remove the magnet, or otherwise take the frame apart that conducts the magnetism of the permanent magnet.

Apparently the non-magnetic part that goes through the coil doesn't actually conduct the permanent magnetism. 

[rp2813]

Thanks for the information.  It sounds like I can change out the coil assemblies to test the network, which is much easier than pulling the entire ringer.

I have one of the capacitor items Dave suggested in my eBay cart in case I need to order them.

[G-Man]

Thanks for the information.  It sounds like I can change out the coil assemblies to test the network, which is much easier than pulling the entire ringer.

I have one of the capacitor items Dave suggested in my eBay cart in case I need to order them.

It may prove to be easier to check the coil with a DVM or other continuity tester to make certain that it has continuity instead of removing it from the ringer-frame.

However if you do have another ringer you can test it by temporarily hooking it up to the sets terminals without removing the presently installed ringer.

And of course you do have the red and black wires connected to the proper line wires?

[rp2813]

Good suggestion, and yes, the red and black are connected where they should be.

[rp2813]

Well whaddaya know -- a call came in today and the problem ringer rang!  I hadn't even touched it yet to check operation with a known good ringer.  I had it adjusted to its lowest setting so have bumped it up some.  I never tested it with the cover off; I just listened for the striker rattling, heard nothing, so jumped to what may have been the wrong conclusion.

This may point to the capacitor if it turns out to be intermittent.  I'll keep an ear on things, and will remove the housing if any further investigation is required.

[DavePEI]

Some Capacitor Sources:

Esold2000 - Ebay - 10 pcs CBB 105J 400v CBB21 1 uf - $2.99 Free Ship - Ebay # 151120070175
Esold2000 -  Ebay  - 10 pcs CBB 205J 400v CBB21  2 uf $4.99  Free Ship - Ebay # 151120118637
uincelec - Ebay - 20pcs CBB capacitor metallized  0.47 uF - $3.50 + $1.50 ship - Ebay # 151225220752?

My supply of spares, all found on eBay... .47 ufd, 1 ufd, and 2 ufd. All Metallized Film caps. Look for those with longer leads, and not PCB mount.

Dave