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#61

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...

Last post by TelePlay - April 17, 2024, 08:37:47 AM

One thing not yet mentioned is the presence of silicone anywhere in your entire work area.

Spray silicone lubricants and waterproofing sprays will contaminate a large area around their use.

Liquid silicone lubricants do the same, spread by touch.

Once silicone gets onto a surface, it is near impossible to remove and paint applied over it will exhibit scrape off properties you are seeing.

There is a phosphate cleaner, mentioned somewhere on the forum, which cleans and prepares bare metal for painting, that might remove silicone. I'll look for it later.

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Found the reference to the cleaner:

"Ospho 605 Metal Treatment" is used by me and at least one other member to clean and prep (etch) metal prior to painting and powder coating. Works well and helps produce a very nice finish.

I've used it to prep bare, rust free, metal for primer but unsure if it will remove silicone. Silicone sticks to everything forever, it seems.

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Then there is this found on another site:

"Silicone fluid is highly soluble in hydrocarbon solvents such as toluene, xylene, ligroin, and mineral spirits as well as in chlorinated hydrocarbons. However, it is insoluble in ethanol, methanol, and water."

https://www.clearcoproducts.com/pdf/library/Solubility1.pdf

#62

Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: 3554 ISSUE

Last post by RDPipes - April 17, 2024, 08:30:42 AM

Sounds like the red and green wires have been swapped give you a bell tap but, I doubt that would stop it from working.
Maybe he has a problem with what ever system he has at home. Sounds like Hughes Net, I'm lucky to have my phone working for two days in a row, LOL!

#63

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...

Last post by RDPipes - April 17, 2024, 08:05:46 AM

I realize it takes time to cure completely and get to full hardness, but shouldn't it at least show signs of adhering to the metal by the time it isn't tacky to the touch anymore? Certainly you shouldn't be able to take the paint down to clean, bare metal with just a fingernail, even after 24 hours. At least that's been my past experience, though granted, painting zinc and even brass is new to me. To be clear, I'm not talking about making a dent in the finish with your nail, I'm talking about taking large swathes of paint clean off by barely dragging your nail across it after it's already well dry enough to handle.

I should mention too that when I painted everything initially, it set for around two months before I ever even touched it, then I probably spent another month assembling things, working on it off and on, before I ever noticed the issue. Paint will harden over time sure, but it won't suddenly adhere to the surface. Or am I getting this all wrong. Is what you're all trying to tell me is it won't adhere no matter what I do and will always be susceptible to easy chipping? Is all you are trying to do is create a hard shell of paint over top of the metal with no real adhesion between the two?

Oh, and by the way, those are some beautiful phones RDPipes.

Thank you sir, and as far as the adhesion problem your having, do you sand the primer before painting, this is a must and I don't recommend any finer grit then 220, otherwise you'll be smoothing the surface too much and eliminating anything for the paint to really stick to. High grits are for sanding base coats primarily. And if the primer is not sticking to the metal you may have the same problem. And when you primer a piece it shouldn't sit any longer then 24 hours before painting. And is it humid where you paint, humidity can play a big roll in painting problems, making the paint slow to flash and curing in a timely fashion among other things, I know cause here in east Texas it's a bear to deal with but, doable.
I'm unsure why your lightly scraping the paint with your finger nail to test adhesion, that's certainly something
I wouldn't make a practice of for the obvious reason. Also, the fish eyeing could have been caused because zinc is pretty porous and may have soaked up oils over the years or even from your fingers. I make a habit when handling pieces before painting with a new pair gloves on cause I'm pretty much a grease ball anytime of day, LOL! And I only use fresh lacquer thinner to wipe down the pieces before primer and paint because I find it evaporates quickly and does the best job of decreasing without leaving a residue. Also if you ever had blasted an item before degreasing it that certainly could contaminate the blast media and the cabinet gloves leading to contamination of anything after that.Well, anyway I hope at least some of this will help you out.

#64

Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / 3554 ISSUE

Last post by HarrySmith - April 17, 2024, 07:34:31 AM

You may remember I recently did a 3554 wall phone for a friend. I tested on my Panasonic PBX before I gave it to him and it was working great. He tells me it works great when he connects it but 5 or 10 minutes later it does not work and the cordless phone that is on the same line in another room also stops working. I took it home and again hooked it up to my Panasonic PBX. I left it connected for 4 days and it worked fine the whole time. I have a cordless phone and the Panasonic desk phone hooked up also. One thing I did notice is when I hang it up there is a single ding from the ringer, it also happens when I connect or disconnect the line cord. Not sure what that is. Does that "ring a bell" with anyone?

#65

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: Questions About Using Rota...

Last post by ka1axy - April 17, 2024, 03:53:33 AM

@Larry
I, like you, use Ooma. I opted to put a Panasonic mini-PBX between my Ooma Telo and my rotary phones to deal with the pulse to tone, and ringer current issues. The Telo is great for what it is, but the Grandstream 802 handles multiple "genuine Bell" phones better (though Ooma's ~$6/mo is hard to beat)

#66

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: Questions About Using Rota...

Last post by dsk - April 17, 2024, 01:00:33 AM

As Larry describes it, it fits my experience too, and even some telco lines has the same characteristics. My guess is that the telco uses similar equipment in their end of the line that we use on voip.  If you coose an VOIP company that allows you to use your own equipment (like Callcentric) you may chose an adapter like Grandstream HT802 that accepts rotary dial, and has a pretty good ringing capacity.  (That is the best adapter I have tested that accepts rotary phones)

#67

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: Questions About Using Rota...

Last post by LarryInMichigan - April 16, 2024, 10:20:23 PM

Clarification.  The subset will ring one very short ding-a-ling and then stops ringing.

The problem is that the Telo device only provides enough ringing current for one or two ringers.  I have a Dialgizmo connected to my Telo device to convert pulse dialing to tones, and I only connect at most two ringers at a time.  On many of my phones and subsets, I have connected a resistor, between 2K and 4K, in series with the ringer to decrease the current draw.  This way, I can usually have two active ringers connected at any given time. 

Larry

#68

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Questions About Using Rotary P...

Last post by Larry - April 16, 2024, 09:59:47 PM

My local telephone company has discontinued pulse dialing on their service.  So, my vintage rotary phones with subsets are out of commission.  There must be a way to continue using them on a VoIP service like Ooma.com.  I signed up for the service.  Ooma uses a Telo adapter for residential customers.  I was told my rotary phones would work on their system.  Well, they do and they don't. I connected the Telo adapter directly to a wall phone jack so that I can use all wall phone jacks in my home.  I have it configured that way now.  The rotary phones will not dial out but I can receive calls.  But the subsets do not ring.  Do the subsets need to be rewired in order for them to ring?  Is there a way I can dial out on the rotary phone?  If I used the HT801 to connect the rotary phones, is that all I need?  I guess, in short, I'm asking how to do all this with what equipment.  I've been a member of this group for a few years, but I have not needed much help until now.  Thanks!.  Larry

#69

Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: Stromberg Carlson wont dia...

Last post by bcarolla - April 16, 2024, 08:38:52 PM

The location of the connected dial wires is in #22 with pictures. The green is not connected. The line wires are pictured below with arrows. As described and photographed earlier there are no clear model model number or date stamped on the base. I will check the other 4 when I get back on the ship Thursday.

#70

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...

Last post by turbofirev8 - April 16, 2024, 07:30:01 PM

Well, thank you for your efforts nonetheless, they are much appreciated. By the way, the fish-eyeing I speak of was on bare metal wiped down with only solvent the day before then blown off before painting, not between paint and primer, as I never got that far, and a bead blasted surface is certainly rougher then a 400 grit sanded surface, but that's neither here nor there.

I'm not sure I have a unique painting issue just to me, though it is certainly nothing like I've ever dealt with in my decades of painting so far. Of course that is why I broke down and asked about it here, hoping that someone may have had similar issues. I'm at a loss myself. I guess all I can do is keep trying things, letting it dry for a while, then testing for adhesion. Maybe something will finally stick, pun intended. I find it hard to believe that I'm the only one unable to get paint to stick on these phones (given the consistent issues I've had over multiple, differing attempts) but maybe I am just that special. I don't know.

In the mean time, if anyone else has any other advise or experience to share, it would be much appreciated as well. Thanks again to every who has and will contribute.