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Wiring a 233g

Started by Tamnative, December 14, 2022, 11:29:07 PM

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Tamnative

#15
Quote from: Stan S on December 15, 2022, 06:18:35 PMLet's try this again.
Your wiring is correct.
The phone isn't working because you eliminated the electromagnet and the coin mics.
By doing that the phone is never connected to the phone line.
Move the Black dial wire and put it on the screw where the Red dial wire is connected and the phone will work fine as a regular extension phone without having to deposit coins.

Are you talking about the black wire that is in the 2nd to last picture?
I have switched the red wire with the black and I didn't get anything.
Should I not put the red wire back or are you saying switch the red with the black?


Stan S


TelePlay

Quote from: Stan S on December 15, 2022, 06:18:35 PMMove the Black dial wire and put it on the screw where the Red dial wire is connected . . .

I think Stan was telling you to put both (red and black) wires on the same terminal, put the black wire on the terminal that has the red wire leaving the red wire on the terminal.

Tamnative

Quote from: TelePlay on December 15, 2022, 07:55:34 PMI think Stan was telling you to put both (red and black) wires on the same terminal, put the black wire on the terminal that has the red wire leaving the red wire on the terminal.


Ok got it I'll give that a try tomorrow thanks.

poplar1

#19
I usually just swap the red and black dial wires on the terminal block. Here is your photo showing the terminal block. (If someone else "hotwired" your phone to work without a network or subset, chances are the other end of this dial harness is not on the right screw terminals on the dial -- but for now, just swap the red and black.) Or put the black wire on R  (where the red wire is now) instead of BKX (where the black wire is now), as Stan suggested.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

poplar1

#20
I don't see the jumper (short wire) going from C on the 425 network to the L1 terminal on the 425 network (along with the green line cord wire and the black ringer wire).  Thus, the ringer is connected to the line, but the talk circuit is not.

From your original post:


    Line cord wires:
    Connect the red line cord wire to L2 of the 425 network, and the green line cord wire to  L1 (Same connections as a model 500 phone.
    ...

    Place a short jumper wire between L1 on the 425 and C on the 425
.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Tamnative

Quote from: poplar1 on December 16, 2022, 05:12:14 AMI don't see the jumper (short wire) going from C on the 425 network to the L1 terminal on the 425 network (along with the green line cord wire and the black ringer wire).  Thus, the ringer is connected to the line, but the talk circuit is not.

From your original post:


    Line cord wires:
    Connect the red line cord wire to L2 of the 425 network, and the green line cord wire to  L1 (Same connections as a model 500 phone.
    ...

    Place a short jumper wire between L1 on the 425 and C on the 425
.


Thanks I caught that today and it works however the ringer doesn't. I had it hooked up like you said but then I checked the pictures that I took before I disconnected it from the host phone and noticed that the black wire was originally on the F terminal of the 425. I changed it but it made no difference. But if I jump a wire from A(red and slate) to L2 I can get a couple of rings then it stops. ???
I am about to give up.

poplar1

Did the ringer work before you added the jumper from L1 to C?

Black ringer wire connects to L1 with the green line cord wire.
Red ringer wire connects to L2 with the red line cord wire.
Slate-red and slate connect to A and K.

What kind of line do you have and how many phones are connected?
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Tamnative

Quote from: poplar1 on December 16, 2022, 08:03:43 PMDid the ringer work before you added the jumper from L1 to C?

Black ringer wire connects to L1 with the green line cord wire.
Red ringer wire connects to L2 with the red line cord wire.
Slate-red and slate connect to A and K.

What kind of line do you have and how many phones are connected?


Answer to 1
1 no it didn't ring
2 black was connected to L1 didn't work
Then put it on F as that's where it was on   Originally before I removed it to use. Still didn't work.

3 Red ringer wire is on L2

4 Red/slate wire is on A but no jumper to K

poplar1

Quote from: Tamnative on December 16, 2022, 11:12:06 PM4 Red/slate wire is on A but no jumper to K

A jumper from A to K would short out the capacitor.
The slate ringer wire goes to K.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

TelePlay

Quote from: Tamnative on December 16, 2022, 11:12:06 PMRed/slate wire is on A but no jumper to K

As poplar1 said, no need to connect A to K with an external jumper wire.

A and k are already connected together inside the network with the ringer circuit capacitor.

The top half of this drawing shows the functional 4 wire ringer circuit:



Tamnative

#26
Quote from: TelePlay on December 17, 2022, 12:28:33 AMThe top half of this drawing shows the functional 4 wire ringer circuit...

Ok, I have wired it up just like the drawing checked all the other connections for the umpteenth time and all are correct. The phone does work but still no ringer. I did have the red/slate wire and the slate crossed ie; slate on k and red/slate on A but I have changed them but it made no difference. The ringer is functional but I don't know how to check the 425 network.

TelePlay

#27
Did you try using a clip wire to connect A to K and then calling the phone to see if the ringer works?

If the capacitor is bad between A and K, if it is shorted out, the ringer will not work.

If you have a DVM that measures capacitance, you could take the wires off of A and K and measure the capacitance - should be about 0.47 uF.

There is nothing else in the 425 that deals with the ringer. The ringer circuit is simple. Green line cord (L1) to black ringer wire, ringer slate/red to A, capacitor from A to K (inside the network), slate from K to ringer and ringer red to line cord red (L2).

L1 and L2 tie the line cord conductors to the black and red ringer wires, nothing more.

TelePlay

#28
Quote from: Tamnative on December 17, 2022, 06:14:21 PMThe ringer is functional . . .

How do you know this?

Have you used a DVM to check the continuity resistance in ohms of red to black with the slate/red and slate ringer wires connected together? poplar1 told me there should be about 2650 ohms Red to Slate-Red and 1000 ohms Slate to Black (which is then about 3650 ohms from ringer red to ringer black with slate/red and slate connected together for a C4A ringer).

Have you tested the ringer with ring voltage when the ringer electrically disconnected from the phone?

Have you electrically connected the ringer, with clip wires, to another working phone?

Sounds like it could be a bad ringer coil solder joint, a broken coil wire (both of which may produce no or intermittent ringing) or a bad capacitor.

How do you know the ringer works?

TelePlay

#29
First, I would also attach the slate wire to the A terminal from the other side of the screw terminal to get the spade lug barrel away from the F terminal.

Also, attach the red line and ringer wires to the other L2 screw terminal from off the network to keep the exposed metal away from the network solder point between L2 and R.

The way it is now wired is messy and could lead to unintentional contact with other terminals.

Clean up the wiring first and then try the ringer. If it still doesn't work, try what I suggested in my previous 2 posts above.