Need help with getting voice out on a WE D1

[unbeldi]

Coil says IND NO 46

There is something stamped in the wood but I can not make it out and what I can looks more like letters.

Ah, very good. That confirms my idea.  The No. 46 coil was the replacement for the No. 20 in 1919.  In the first couple of years they looked almost identical, having only a different iron core.

[USS656]

Looks like someone has crimped new spade connectors to the wires inside.  It is hard to see where they go, despite adjusting the lighting of your picture.

Followed this diagram I found online

[unbeldi]

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[USS656]

That should work.  It is the same circuit, but for a candlestick telephone.    The mounting cord is a three-conductor cord also, with red,green, and yellow coded wires.

Here is a modern rendition (mine) for this circuit.
The details in the right side (light shade) are simplified, leaving out the switches in the desk set, but it shows the principle of wiring the transmitter and receiver.

Thank you, will try it out as soon as I rewire it with proper length wire.

As a side note, what is the best recommended ringer box for the desk set I have where I will not get as much feedback?  Any suggestions on where to buy one?

[unbeldi]

Thank you, will try it out as soon as I rewire it with proper length wire.

As a side note, what is the best recommended ringer box for the desk set I have where I will not get as much feedback?  Any suggestions on where to buy one?

The best subset for you is either a 684A, or a 634A.  Both are equivalent, the 634A was a refurbishment-upgrade of older subset types, while the 684A was a factory made unit, starting in ca. 1930/31.   They can be found pretty readily for $30-$60 on eBay. 

When searching the forum, you will find many posts about these, with pictures and advice.

[USS656]

Cool - Thanks

[USS656]

The best subset for you is either a 684A, or a 634A.  Both are equivalent, the 634A was a refurbishment-upgrade of older subset types, while the 684A was a factory made unit, starting in ca. 1930/31.   They can be found pretty readily for $30-$60 on eBay. 

Not finding any 684A or 634A subsets on ebay at prices you mentioned.  Will a 685A work okay?

[TelePlay]

Not finding any 684A or 634A subsets on ebay at prices you mentioned.  Will a 685A work okay?

They have been selling on the high end of unbeldi's price range.

They don't show up on eBay on a regular basis so you have to keep watching regularly to spot them, and pick the one you want at the price you are willing to pay.

A 685 uses components similar to those seen in the wood box subset that started this topic, uses a 435 network, while a 684 is similar to 302 circuitry, IIRC.

They would both work but the 684 would be more original to the 202 desk set.

[USS656]

Thanks John,

I think I found a 684A working in the price range mentioned.    The internet is a wonderful thing!

Had to laugh at this statement in the listing: "Not for those that are not familiar with wiring old phone circuits"

That about describes me to a tee.   

[unbeldi]

Yes, the 685A would work too, but usually they cost more than 684/634s.
A 684A or 634A is the perfect fit historically.

Here is one that sold along with the hangup phone for $37: http://www.ebay.com/itm/142067824537

[TelePlay]

For comparison, these are a 634 and 534 subset, the components and size changed as they became more "modern."

[poplar1]

You can use the 295A wood subset you already have. Just tape and store the black wire from the phone, and connect the yellow, green and red to the L2-Y, GN and R terminals.

The wood terminal block painted black is from a metal 534A subset, but serves the same purpose as the original terminals, which were separately mounted directly to the sides of the 295A subset.

Sidetone subsets (295A, 334A, 534A, 584A) have two advantages compared to anti-sidetone subsets (634A, 634BA, 684A, 684BA, 434A, 495BP) or network type subsets (685A):

(1) You can connect multiple phones to one subset*.
(2) You can use anti-sidetone telephones with a sidetone subset, but the reverse is generally not true (sidetone phones with an AST subset).

*Connecting more than one phone to an anti-sidetone subset requires special phones with extra hookswitch contact springs: 215 (D8), 213 (G3) and 151-R.

[dsk]

Just for testing, the phone should work connecting Yellow and green to the telephone line.  This will result in DC trough receiver, and may in the long term ruin your receiver.

dsk

[dsk]

You can use the 295A wood subset you already have. Just tape and store the black wire from the phone, and connect the yellow, green and red to the L2-Y, GN and R terminals.

The wood terminal block painted black is from a metal 534A subset, but serves the same purpose as the original terminals, which were separately mounted directly to the sides of the 295A subset.

Sidetone subsets (295A, 334A, 534A, 584A) have two advantages compared to anti-sidetone subsets (634A, 634BA, 684A, 684BA, 434A, 495BP) or network type subsets (685A):

(1) You can connect multiple phones to one subset*.
(2) You can use anti-sidetone telephones with a sidetone subset, but the reverse is generally not true (sidetone phones with an AST subset).

*Connecting more than one phone to an anti-sidetone subset requires special phones with extra hookswitch contact springs: 215 (D8), 213 (G3) and 151-R.

A close look at the picture shows that the schematics are right, and you may just follow the instructions from poplar1.
You will not get the anti sidetone and hear yourselves pretty loud. A local telco here made a change in similar circuits an the early 1920-ies and moved the wire from the induction coil from terminal C to R.  This reduced the sidetone, and the booster effect.  You could try if the wire is long enough.
dsk