problem wiring 51AL candlestick to 634A ringer box

[Jf510]

I pulled out my other candlestick that was not working right. I think it's a 51AL but the powder coating is thick and hard to tell. I looked at the 51AL schematic that was sent with my last problem on my 50AL (also a schematic 50AL was sent) but the letters don't match up on this candlestick so I can't get it to work. The letters on the candlestick are as follows: Top terminal screw (2nd from top) is "BB", under that is "yy", under that on the left is "B" and to the right is "y". I am using a 4H dial which I strapped the BB & W.  The small terminal on the bottom is "R" & "GN". I was following the same wiring diagram on the 634A as I did on the 634BA from before.  Any help on this would be appreciated.  I am amazed on how many different versions of candlesticks and ringer boxes there are. It's very confusing to this amateur.

[G-Man]

I have to leave shortly, but check if it matches an antisidetone 151AL deskstand.

[Jf510]

Thanks..I will give that a try. Hopefully my wiring on the 634A is ok.

[G-Man]

Thanks..I will give that a try. Hopefully my wiring on the 634A is ok.

Does your subset have 634A stamped on it?
Here is another diagram.

[Jf510]

The 634A is stamped on the inside cover but looks like it was re-stamped and there are no other markings.

[Phonesrfun]

The 684A is an antisidetone subset, and it appears that you have a 151AL, which is also an antisidetone stick.  The hookswitch has 4 leaves instead of three, which makes it antisidetone.  G-Man has given you the diagram for an antisidetone 151, so you are almost there.

What you don't have is a 4-conductor deskset cord between the phone and the subset.  It appears that you are using a three conductor handset cord.  Nothing against a handset cord, but an antisidetone set needs 4 conductors.

If you don't have a 4-conductor fabric cord, you can use a length of 4 or more inside wire to use to test with until you can secure a fabric cord.  Follow the wiring diagram posted by G-man and you should be OK.  (PS:  The jumper goes between BB and R, which it appears you have properly done. )

[G-Man]

It should be ok if your deskstand is wired properly and you connect it as shown in the schematic below.

[Phonesrfun]

It should be ok if your deskstand is wired properly and you connect it as shown in the schematic below.

It looks, though, like he has a couple wires disconnected inside the deskstand.

[G-Man]

It should be ok if your deskstand is wired properly and you connect it as shown in the schematic below.

It looks, though, like he has a couple wires disconnected inside the deskstand.

Once he follows your instructions he should be good to go!

[Jf510]

After switching wires around and couldn't get it to work I took the pictures with some wires not hooked up. I do have a 4 lead cord so I will try and follow the above info later and see if I can get it to work. Thanks

[Jf510]

I am terrible in reading schematics so I did the best I could. The dial come on and on when playing with the switch hook and has a very loud pop so I must be screwing something up. Here's what I did:
Transmitter: one lead to yy on dial and the lead to BK of dial
Receiver: one lead to BB switch and other lead to GN of bottom post
Mounting cord: GN to GN of bottom post, red to R of bottom post then to R of dial, yellow to B switch and BLK to BK of dial
Switch: BB to BB dial, yy to transmitter & R bottom post, B to yellow of mounting cord to 634, y to y dial.
At the 634 I ran as follows: Red to R, GRN to GN, BLK to BK, YEL to L2/Y
Sorry but I am lost.

[G-Man]

In an effort to clarify the wiring diagram I eliminated the connections for manual service, varistor and the dial filter; none of which apply to your set. If I didn't screw it up, then it should help you in making the proper connections.

[Phonesrfun]

Just to make sure your hook switch is for antisidetone, can you send the side view of the switch so I can see the sections?  Assuming it is antisidetone, here is a checklist you can use to wire your phone.  Use it to check off each connection you do.  Also, it would be extremely helpful to you to look carefully at the diagrams that have already been sent to follow along in order to get the hang of how to wire phones according to the diagrams.  The color coded 151AL diagram that G-Man last posted is the best one to follow along with.  Notice that the same connections are referred to more than once.  For instance when talking about the receiver, I say to connect the white wire to W on the dial, and the dial has the same information when I talk about its W terminal.

Here it is:

(1)    4- conductor desk set cord:
At the subset:
·         Red to R on the coil
·         Green to GN on the coil
·         Yellow to L2Y on the coil
·         Black to the BK terminal on the terminal strip that has the black capacitor (condenser) wire

In the phone:
·         Red to R on the little terminal pad
·         Green to GN on the same little terminal pad
·         Yellow to B-Y on the other little terminal pad
·         Black to BK on the dial

(2)    Transmitter:

·         Black to BK on the dial (along with the black desk set wire)(Black wire should be in the wire harness going to the base of the phone)
·         Double Yellow to YY/R on the hooks witch

(3)     4-conductor wire harness:


In the base of the phone:
·         Solid blue wire to B-Y on the little terminal pad
·         Black from transmitter to BK on the dial (already mentioned above)
·         Yellow to Y on the dial
·         Double Blue to BB on the dial

At the hookswitch:
·         Solid blue wire to B
·         Black to transmitter
·         Yellow to Y
·         Double Blue to BB

(4)     Receiver:

·         White to W on the dial, which is the terminal on the top side of the switch pile
·         Green to GN on the little terminal pad


(5)     Check the dial:

·         W has the white wire from the receiver
·         BK has two black wires.  One from the desk set cord and the other coming from the wire harness that comes from the transmitter
·         Y has a yellow wire from the wire harness
·         BB has the double blue wire from the wire harness and a jumper to R
·         R has the jumper from BB

(6)     684A Subset:

·         One line cord wire to L1 on the coil
·         Other line cord wire to L2Y on the coil
·         Red capacitor (condenser) wire to C on the coil
·         Black capacitor wire to terminal BK
·         Red ringer wire to L1 on the coil
·         Black ringer wire to terminal K
·         Slate capacitor wire to K
·         Yellow capacitor wire to L2/Y on the coil

[Jf510]

Between the cleaner schematic and the complete breakdown of the wiring I got it connected and it works great. I had a minor problem with the outer contact on the switch not making a good connection but I pushed it in a bit and it works well now. I don't know if the contacts has a certain sequence but it's working well so I am happy with that. Thanks again for your help  

[poplar1]

The outer contact springs should break (open) first when hanging up. When going off-hook, the outer contact springs "make last", as indicated on the diagram. This way, you won't hear a loud pop when hanging up, because the receiver is disconnected first.

Between the cleaner schematic and the complete breakdown of the wiring I got it connected and it works great. I had a minor problem with the outer contact on the switch not making a good connection but I pushed it in a bit and it works well now. I don't know if the contacts has a certain sequence but it's working well so I am happy with that. Thanks again for your help  