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OK, so where do I start?

Started by OldHarley, October 11, 2013, 02:22:24 PM

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OldHarley

Good morning,

My question is more of a "where do I start" one, that seems to be more appropriate here than in the wooden phones section.

A little background, first.  My dad bought a unmolested 317S wood wall phone in about 1959.  His intention was to use it as an upstairs extension for us kids.

He worked a deal with a friend that if the friend could get the guts, he would convert the wood phone to an extension phone that could receive calls, but could not call out or ring.

The phone was found by me in a closet after my mom passed.  The added network was still in place, but unfortunately the phone no longer works as it once did.

I am able get a hum sound thru the receiver, but no dial tone.  In addition, the 1960 vintage network connections are not labeled with letters, only numbers 1-16, so I am not sure where to begin to find a wiring diagram.

If someone could possibly direct me, I would appreciate it.  I have attached a photo if it helps at all.

rdelius

Your network is out of an older AE type 80 telephone. Look for the diagram for a potted network with manual compensation   .Should be on the net

G-Man

See if this diagram matches up.

G-Man

A photo of the outside is not shown however I assume that a handset is not used; instead a separate transmitter and receiver is connected instead.

I have simplified the wiring diagram by removing the handset and ringer connections and showing the wiring of the separate components instead.

The colors shown were chosen at random to make it easier to discern where each wire goes.

OldHarley

#4
Well, it looks like a match.  I notice the network has the separate rheostat with the properly colored wires going to it, and though I am not sure what it does, I do know that after 50+ years a sliding contact arm would definitely be a place more likely to have a bad connection than the hard wired screw connections.

That is because I am beginning with the assumption that everything is properly wired and it is just a connection to the line or other less complex issue.

Re: the network, I have not pulled it out as yet and since I don't know what I expect to find. I figure that will come later after I see if the wiring looks correct, if I have to get to that point.

I will also try to clean any other make/break contacts since as I said, the phone was once working and I doubt my dad or mom fiddled with anything inside the box.

Edit: Just saw your 2nd response and yes, it has a separate transmitter and receiver like a typical wood wall phone.

dsk

The rheostat are there for adjustments to line impedance, since the lines usually are better now, you could probably just short 2 and 8 and just test if the third (14) makes it better or worse if connected to the two others.

dsk

OldHarley

In looking at G-man's post #3, wiring diagram, upper, I see I have no wire from connection 6 on the network to the receiver hook as indicated.  All else seems to be wired OK by a visual inspection.

As I am working on the assumption that no person would likely have monkeyed with the insides and phone WAS working, would anyone know if that wire is/was necessary?

G-Man

As is seen in the schematic, the orange and white hookswitch leads were originally used to connect the ringer when the instrument was on-hook. Since this is non-standard wiring, your sets wiring is most likely connected directly across the line so you can ignore connections to screw terminals "6" and "16."

Without knowing how your set was wired it is difficult to diagnose, however the contacts on the switchook may need to be cleaned or adjusted. While listening through the receiver, gently push the contacts that should be touching while the switchook is off the hook.

If you hear dial-tone then clean them with bond paper or a business card. This is accomplished by inserting the paper between the two closed contacts and gently pulling though them. This is an accepted practice for removing any grime or tarnish that may be clinging to them.

Never use a file or any other means that will remove the precious metal contacts.

G-Man

In order to rule-out swichook problems, remove the line/cord wire from terminal "10" and momentarily connect it to terminal "1" while listening through the earpiece. If you have dial-tone then there is an issue with the switchook.

If that does not work then remove the wire line/cord wire from terminal "8" and temporarily touch if first to terminal "2" and if you still don't hears any results, touch it to terminal "14."

OldHarley

#9
Thanks G-man,

Update: I carefully touched around the receiver hook connections to no avail; however, disconnecting Line in to #10 and connecting it straight to #1 got me a dial tone... albeit, much, MUCH, MUCH fainter than I expected.

BTW, wiring diagram appears to be exactly like the one you furnished with the separate transmitter/receiver (no ringer or dial), less the connection from terminal #6 to hook.

So, then, I simply put things back and BEHOLD! I get that faint dial tone thru the receiver! Go figure! (in retrospect, I wonder if that hum I was getting at first was a very faint dial tone that I did not recognize as such).

In any event, I guess now I need to try dsk 's suggestion of adjusting or maybe eliminating rheostat. see below

Latest update: My WE 706A receiver gets a strong dial tone as is, so I guess I need to work on the older one on the wood phone.  It has the exposed posts on top, but it may have been updated though, since I see an element labeled HC3. Not likely 1908 vintage If I recall correctly!  Maybe now I need the hard rap fix!

Phonesrfun

Quote from: OldHarley on October 15, 2013, 01:40:31 PM
Thanks G-man,

Update: I carefully touched around the receiver hook connections to no avail; however, disconnecting Line in to #10 and connecting it straight to #1 got me a dial tone... albeit, much, MUCH, MUCH fainter than I expected.

BTW, wiring diagram appears to be exactly like the one you furnished with the separate transmitter/receiver (no ringer or dial), less the connection from terminal #6 to hook.

So, then, I simply put things back and BEHOLD! I get that faint dial tone thru the receiver! Go figure! (in retrospect, I wonder if that hum I was getting at first was a very faint dial tone that I did not recognize as such).

In any event, I guess now I need to try dsk 's suggestion of adjusting or maybe eliminating rheostat. see below

Latest update: My WE 706A receiver gets a strong dial tone as is, so I guess I need to work on the older one on the wood phone.  It has the exposed posts on top, but it may have been updated though, since I see an element labeled HC3. Not likely 1908 vintage If I recall correctly!  Maybe now I need the hard rap fix!

The hard rap fix is for the transmitter only.  Rapping the receiver might damage it.

-Bill G