I picked up a Galion 5H6 at a swapmeet a few weeks ago. It was a type with a blank instead of an actual dial. I obtained an automatic electric 51 dial from a parts vendor on the internet, but I am unable to figure out how to connect it. The wiring diagram for the 5H6 I found on the internet shows how to connect a Western electric 5H dial and the contacts are laid out differently, and also conveniently labelled in that brand of dial. The contacts are not labelled at all on the AE dial.
The vendor mailed me some pictures of AE dials with the terminals labelled in similar lingo to the WE dial, but the images show dials with 3 or 5 shunt contacts. My dial has 4, with the bottom two being jumpered together...
I think I have the impulse connectors wired up correctly, but the shunt connections have me stumped.
Any advice?
If your dial has 4 ON contacts it may be equivalent to a WE dial. A picture would help otherwise we might be talking cross purposes.
There are several diagrams in the TCI library here: http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/browse/wiring-diagrams/north
I believe the AE dials with 3 ON (in this case shunt) contacts cause the receiver to click each side of a digit.
Jack
I have uploaded the wiring diagram for the 5H6. I have traced the wires in the phone and they match the diagram. I have also uploaded a picture of the back of the AE dial. So my question is where do I make the three wiring connections marked R, BB and W on the wiring diagram on the AE dial?
I should add that the wire that connects to W currently does not exist in the phone. As you can see in the diagram, this wire is not routed to the blank if it is installed in the phone, but the other 4 wires are. I have attached a new wire to terminal 2 to make the W connection, but do not know where to make the opposite connection on the dial.
That dial looks like it has two normally open ON contacts - is that right?
If that is so, it is not equivalent to a WE dial. With the bridge connected as it is across the two centre ON contacts, it is a standard AE dial as used in most AE telephones.
This diagram: http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/browse/wiring-diagrams/north/doc_details/11596-north-electric-7h6-wiring-h-199-s-7
shows how to connect it. The centre ON contact is the bridged pair.
As I noted previously, I believe this configuration will cause the receiver to pop before and after each digit. Try it and see how it works.
Jack
That is correct. The two sets of contacts are open, they both close when the dial is turned. Currently, the dial is wired up (with 4 connections) as shown in the diagram you posted for the 7H6. The bridge between the center contacts is in position. The phone does not dial out. I hear the dial tone between each turn of the dial, and continue to hear it after dialing a number.
This diagram: link (http://telephonecollectors.info/index.php/browse/wiring-diagrams/north/doc_details/1967-north-7h6-desk-set-with-north-or-ae-dial-h6-s7-tl) from the TCI library should help you.
Larry
If indeed the off-normal contacts are a set of two normally-open switches, then this dial is equivalent to a Western Electric No. 7G, 7H, or 9G dial which were used for some of the Design Line sets, I believe, in circuits based on a 425-type network. I suspect the dial came from a similar instrument made by another manufacturer.
The AE designation for this contact configuration is AK-28.
To use this dial you need to have installed a bridge between the two ON switches so that it acts as a three-way-make switch, and use a diagram designed for the standard AE dial with a AK-25 configuration, which has simply three contacts closing.
Quote from: unbeldi on December 29, 2016, 10:44:01 AM
To use this dial you need to have installed a bridge between the two ON switches so that it acts as a three-way-make switch, and use a diagram designed for the standard AE dial with a AK-25 configuration, which has simply three contacts closing.
From the picture above, it appears that such a bridge is already in place.
Larry
I am pretty sure I have it wired us as in the 7H6 wiring diagram now.Connections are as shown in the picture, and the jumper is in place, also as shown. I cannot dial out. After dialing each number, I hear the dialtone. After completing the whole phone number I still hear the dial tone.
What kind of dial service do you have ?
Do any other rotary dial telephones work on the same line ?
I have a western electric 202 that works on the same line.
Strap it ....see pic....Doug
Where does that black wire lead to?
Have you verified that the pulsing contacts are physically separating as the dial returns? Do you hear anything from the receiver as the dial is turned and returns? If you separate the pulsing contacts with your finger, do you hear dial tone? Does the dial break dial tone if the ringer is disconnected? In your picture, it looks like the pulsing cam is not in the correct rest position.
Larry
The contacts do separate when the dial is turned. At rest they are touching, and I hear a dial tone. (see picture for a close up of the at rest position). When I turn the dial both contacts move in towards the thick metal post. The dial tone goes away if I lift the long contact, or if I rotate the dial, then it returns after the dial returns to the rest position.
Temporarily disconnect the shunting contacts (red and white). This will allow you to hear the dial pulses so you may want to keep a safe distance between the receiver and your ear.
Now, when you are winding up the dial (clockwise), does the dial tone stay on? Do you hear the pulses (loud clicks) when the dial returns to normal?
I disconnected the red and white wires. When I wind up the dial the dial tone goes away. When I release it I can hear the clicks. More clicks the further I have wound the dial. When it comes back to its rest position the dial tone comes back. It sort of sounds like the click you get when you hang up just before the dial tone returns though.
When you wind up the dial, and hold the finger wheel so that it won't return, then you should still have dial tone. Since you don't, the dial is effectively hanging up the phone before the pulses start.
The pulsing springs must remain touching while the dial is at rest, while you are winding it up, and until they open up (7 times for a dialed 7 digit, for example) as the dial winds down.
Perhaps it is as Larry stated, that the cam is not in the right position, if your contact springs are open at any time before the dial starts pulsing on the wind down.
You should still hear dial tone when winding the dial when the red and white wires are disconnected. It could be that the phenolic piece (cam) is too close to the long pulsing contact spring and pushing it away from the other contact when the dial is turned. Try rotating the cam a bit clockwise by first loosening the tiny nut which holds is down and lifting it slightly.
Larry
Just put my ohmmeter on the phone. When I turn the dial, the pulse contacts move inwards, but they are held slightly apart by the cam. The longer contact arm rest right on the corner of the cam, which is holding them slightly apart, so they are not in contact. I will try moving the cam slightly.
OK, before I monkey with the CAM, lets make sure I am doing the correct thing. The attached picture shows the position of the contact on the cam when the dial is turned. Should I rotate the cam so the contact comes to rest where the red arrow is pointing? This would cause the longer contact to touch the shorter one.
Rotate the cam so that it is more or less parallel to the contact springs when it is at rest position. The exact orientation is not important as long as the long ends and corners are nowhere near the pulsing contact when at rest. The cam should only touch the pulsing contact when the dial returns.
Larry
OK, I have rotated the cam. I still have an issue though. The two pulse contacts never quite touch when the dial is turned. The longer one is not impeded by the cam, but it just doesn't move over enough to quite touch the shorter contact.
You can gently bend the thick metal part to the left of the shorter contact spring slightly to the right. The position of that piece determines how far left the shorter spring can move.
Larry
Cool thanks for all the help. Just made a phone call :-)
One small issue. When dialing, not on every digit, but on a couple of them, the bells made a slight ring. Is this normal?
Quote from: MesaMike on December 30, 2016, 11:52:35 AM
Cool thanks for all the help. Just made a phone call :-)
One small issue. When dialing, not on every digit, but on a couple of them, the bells made a slight ring. Is this normal?
Great! The ringer tapping is not unusual. I don't think that the North ringers had bias springs to prevent it like most other North American phones. You can probably make some adjustments to the ringer to minimize it, like moving the gongs a bit farther out.
Larry