Using a 302 base with a 4 wire subset cord connection question

[RotoTech99]

Dear Forum:

Phonesrfun has provided me some useful information and advice on using a 302 base as a subset for a 202 using a 4 wire subset cord...

I do have a question that I need advice on please regarding one connection he mentioned.

He mentioned that for the black subset cord lead and black condenser lead that they should be connected at terminal BK on the terminal block next to the condenser and ind. coil; that is not present on my 302 base.

I think I can make that connection using a screw and nut, or a Dracon splice connector that snaps closed... If either of those is properly insulated so it doesn't short or interfere, would that be suitable for that connection Phonesrfun mentioned?

I would appreciate and be thankful
any additional advice and information that could be helpful with my question.

Thank You,
RotoTech99

[poplar1]

For the black condenser wire and black conductor from the 202, you can use the GND terminal on the small block that also has the K terminal (for the slate condenser wire and the black ringer wire).

Connect the red ringer wire to L1. Connect the line cord from the wall jack to L1 (red) and L2 (green).

No need to connect ground (yellow line cord wire from the wall) to GND. That was only needed for party lines.

[RotoTech99]

Dear Poplar1:

Thank you for your reply to my post.

Can you please clarify the information you sent on where to connect the black condenser wire and the black wire from the 202, please?

I'm thinking by the "black wire from the 202" you mean the black subset cord wire can go with the black condenser lead on GND, Is this correct, please?

If I'm understanding you correctly, Thank you. If I'm not understanding your reply correctly, please clarify what you meant.

I just want to be certain I'm understanding both Phonesrfun's information, and what you've told me, and be able to choose which one works best.

Thank you,
RotoTech99

[poplar1]

Correct. The black wire in the 4-conductor mounting cord from the 202 connects to the black condenser wire. Doesn't matter whether you use the BK terminal in a 684A subset, or the GND terminal in a 302 base, or just connect the two wires together using a screw and nut, or some thin solid copper wire that holds the 2 spade tips together  (and black tape) so that they make contact. The BK terminal in the subset and the GND terminal in a 302 base are "blind terminals" -- meaning they are just empty terminals until you use them.

[RotoTech99]

Dear Poplar1:

What can I do about stripped mounting posts for the baseplate for my 202; the original screws are in the baseplate, but I believe the threads in the posts are stripped as I mentioned... I'm trying to fix that by using JB weld in the posts and then put the baseplate and
screws in place so the JB weld will harden and form thread grooves around them.

I don't think it's going to be successful, so I do have self tapping screws that are used to mount the hook switch in a 302 shell that I think might work; what do you think, please?

I would appreciate and be thankful for your advice, please.

Thank you for providing the other information I needed as well.

RotoTech99

[rdelius]

sometimes  the stripped holes were drilled out and threaded brass inserts were used to restore the threads

[RotoTech99]

Dear Rdelius:

I don't have any brass inserts, that's why I was thinking of using the self tap screws used for mounting the hook switch in a plastic 302, and use them with the 202 if they're long enough.. What do you think, please?

Thanks,
RotoTech99

[rdelius]

That might work but the original screws were narrow under the head .You might try using JB weld and drill and re tap  the holes

[RotoTech99]

Dear Poplar1& Fellow CRPF Members who have helped with my posts about my 202 D8, aka: 215 D8:

Here are some pictures of my 202 D8 as it is now... I don't see 202 sets very often, and this one is surprisingly nice.

According to what I can figure, the base is dated 3rd qrtr. 1937, the cloth covered handset cord and transmitter and receiver from 1960. the dial from 1970. It has a very slight indentation in the rim of the dial mount between the 5 and 6 positions of the dial.

The original finger wheel was warped a bit, so I'm going to see if there is a way to to rig a clamp or vise to press it back to its "flat profile"! ; I'm guessing the wheel is aluminum, so that shouldn't be an issue, but I will want to use some blocks or pads so that the clamp or vise won't leave " teeth marks " on it.

The finger wheel it has now is in good condition except for slight loss of the finish where the number card holder attaches to it.

The F1W handset makes me think it was sold to  yellow outside the Bell System.

I think it's incredibly nice, and worth my time, and a place in my collection.

Please tell me what you think.

Thanks,
RotoTech99

[HarrySmith]

That looks like a very nice phone. Pretty good condition. A little Brasso & steel wool should clean it up nicely. Obviously someone swapped out the dial, probably had a nice #2 dial that someone wanted so they put in what they had. As far as the bent fingerwheel I have 2 pieces of 2X4 about 4 inches each. I put the fingerwheel in between, give it a few wacks with a hammer and presto! Straight fingerwheel with no damage.

[RotoTech99]

I'm going to stick with my guess that it was made originally for sale outside the Bell System, hence the F1W handset, and was most likely made in the third quarter of 1937.

As to the dial, I suspect you're correct, but to me the #6 dial is satisfactory with it; I wish it would've the older number plate with "0-Z' and operator on it; even with wear that would look good on it.
I wish someone made the overlays for those that have that, most overlays I see have just " 0- OPERATOR " on them.

I like the finish the way it is; it gives it "dignified wear"... wear that to me gives it character in a way that says it was taken care of reasonably well. Even the base leather looks pretty good despite some "smooth spots".

RotoTech99

[HarrySmith]

You may be right about being for an independent or the handset may have been replaced at some point. We never know for sure! I have some old dial plates, let me look if I have one for you.

[RotoTech99]

Dear Harrysmith:

That sounds good, thank you. Let me know what you find.

If you can, find one with the "metropolitan" layout with the "Z- zero" at the 0 position, please.

Please be sure it fits a #6 dial.

My mailing address is: Ed Burnett, P. O. Box 975, Wewoka, Ok.  74884.

[HarrySmith]

I will see what I have. If I do find one for you I will ask for a SSAE to send it out. May not get to it until the weekend as I am working.

[RotoTech99]

Dear Harrysmith:

I can do a self addressed stamped envelope (SASE) with no problem, just let me know what turns up.

Thanks,
RotoTech99