My first payphone.

[DavePEI]

Hi Briny:
Well, I don't think the full document would be much help to you, as you have a bit of a mongrel consisting of 1A, 1B, and 1C parts, therefore only  parts of the photo would apply.

You can download the full manual from:

http://tinyurl.com/m6lj9k3

Thanks.  This phone opens up a whole new world of phone-itis for me, so for now just getting a basic understanding of different parts will do. 

Did you try hooking it up to a line yet? Should work as a home phone as-is.

Dave

[ESalter]

Here is some quick Payphone 101:

There are 3 main types of single slot payphones.  A, C, and D.  Chronologically they were in that order, also.  I'll explain a bit about each of those types in a moment.  A normal model for a payphone would be 1C2.  The first digit is either a 1 or 2.  1 is standard type, 2 is panel phone type.  The last digit is also a 1 or a 2.  1 for rotary, 2 for touchtone.  So, a D type normal touchtone payphone would be a 1D2 while a panel phone A type rotary would be a 2A1.

The board on the right with the network is the chassis board, and the metal coin chute on the left is the validator.  Attached to the lower right side of the validator is the totalizer.  The validator sorts real money from fake money, then the totalizer counts it in nickel increments.

A type phones were first.  Original A types are pretty difficult to find as most were converted to C types, just as your upper housing was.  An A type has a different style of dial assembly, like the one in my phone here:

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=9382.0

Like I said before, external features of an A type phone are no orange instruction plate in the upper corner, a wedge shaped coin release lever, and an old Bell System logo on the faceplate.  The hookswitch levers on those are plastic instead of metal, also.  The touchtone models had plastic(dark gray) buttons.

The lower housing components in my green phone above had been converted to C type.  As far as functionality, A type phones were strictly coin first.  In the early 70s they made C type (convertible) phones.  They were pretty much the same except the totalizers had a slide switch on the front(like my green one has) that allowed you to switch the phone between Coin First and Dialtone First operation.   In the late 70s they started making D types which were strictly dialtone first.  Those have the newer 60 and 61 type dial assemblies and 32 type chassis boards like yours has. The main difference was the totalizer.  The validators sort the accepted coins into 3 columns, nickels, dimes, and quarters.  The older totalizers in A and C types have 3 fingers, one reaching into each of these columns.  As the coins fall past, they push on these fingers causing a cam inside the totalizer to move a certain amount to count the value of the coins.  On the Ds they replaced the large mechanical totalizer with a small 47A signal board that doesn't have moving parts, it more or less has 3 sensors that just "see" the coins fall past in their respective columns.  It connects to the chassis board with a rectangular D-Sub connector instead of the older round 11 pin type connector.  On the older A and C phones you had to set the initial rate by adjusting the mechanism inside the totalizer, on the D types it is set on the back of the chassis board with either jumpers or DIP switches.

I'm sure I'm forgetting a bunch, but that's all I can think of for the time being.  Hopefully it made at least a little bit of sense.

---Eric

[Greg G.]

Did you try hooking it up to a line yet? Should work as a home phone as-is.

Dave

Yes, it fully functions as is.  I found a jack already rigged tucked away inside, so I used that.

Here it is.  I had a bit of fun with it.  http://youtu.be/mFoXRrkW5HI

Greg the Mad Phone Collector.

[DavePEI]

Did you try hooking it up to a line yet? Should work as a home phone as-is.

Dave

Yes, if fully functions as is.  I'm waiting for the video to finish uploading on Youtube.

Here it is.  I had a bit of fun with it.  http://youtu.be/mFoXRrkW5HI

Greg the Mad Phone Collector.

Great - so you are well on the way. What you will nee now is the coin relay and box, and a controller if you wish to use it as a payphone. You need to make sure the controller you get will work with a single slot. Nice to know it does work as it should at this point, though!

Dave

[Greg G.]

Is there a modular jack made for these?  The one I found in there looks like it was taken from a regular desk phone and mickey-moused into the opening in the back with electrical tape and glue.  I managed to push it back into the opening somewhat for now, but it's not a good fit.

[ESalter]

Payphones aren't intended to have modular jacks, they're designed to be hardwired directly to the chassis board with station wire.

---Eric

[DavePEI]

Payphones aren't intended to have modular jacks, they're designed to be hardwired directly to the chassis board with station wire.

As Eric says, these weren't designed for modular connection to the line. They were normally hardwired.

The way it was done in this phone is one way you can connect a line. Steal a modular connector out of a phone. However, trying to mount it as it is isn't the best way.

Better thing is to lead the mod wire through the hole in back, and insulate and tie wrap the connector inside the phone.

Best way is to cut off the inside end of the modular cable, and put spades on the red and green wires, connecting them directly to the terminals inside. Once again, use a tie wrap on the wire to secure the line. Doing it this way gives one less possible trouble point for the future.

Its a nice phone, and have fun with it, Greg! Great video.

Dave

[ESalter]

The way Dave mentioned is how I attach modular cords to the payphones I sell.  I take a good length modular cord and cut it in half(to make two cords out of it).  I put spades on the cut ends.  I usually loop the cord around the ringer frame and tie it with lacing cord, but zip ties do the same thing. 

---Eric