I found two WE D1/202 sets on Goodwill's auction site, both from the same store, and won both. One has the E-1 handset, and the other an F-1 handset. The set with the E-1 handset appears a little rougher, is missing the dial card retainer, and will need a set of cords. The other set is in better shape and I think the cloth cords can be salvaged.
Here is the information for both:
D1/202 with E-1 Handset
Base dated I-36
Dial: 4H, dated I-32
E-1 Handset
Receiver: 557B, dated IV-37
TX: F1 dated 4-48
D1/202 with F-1 Handset
Base dated IV-35
Dial: 5H dated 4-49
F1 Handset
Receiver: HA1 dated 11-24-41
TX: F1 dated 10-47
Nice finds! I like the old dial card, paired with the chrome rings, a classy touch.
How much did it cost to get these into your hands?
Agreed...love the dial card...nice 4H as well.....Doug
Nice finds! I definitely love the sound of the 4h dial. Getting an E1 handset completely apart can be a royal pain. But a nice rubber strap wrench will solve that problem.
Good for you! If you have the patience to deal with the outdated Goodwill website you deserve the fruits of your labor!
Enjoy!
Benny
Goodwill auctions are getting as pricey as eBay, although I still find some good bargains. But these went high. The D1 with the E-1 handset went for $46. The D1 with F-1 and the cool dial card went for $80. I had only intended to bid on the E-1.set, but couldn't resist the dial card on the F-1 set, and the cords all looked good.
I have cleaned and polished the E-1 set, and cleaned and lubricated the 4H dial, which seems to be working smoothly now. I'm waiting on a set or cords and new dial ring.
I can't test it yet as I need to make a subset. I've got a couple old Princess 702B bases I thought get I might see if I could make a subset from one.
BTW, Goodwill has significantly revamped their auction site recently.
Butch, I was able to get the E-1 spit cup off by wrapping some masking tape around the spit cup and using a rubber gripper cloth (see photo above)
I removed the 4H dial as it would barely rotate. I cleaned the dial mechanism with contact cleaner, which freed it up quickly. I lightly oiled the mechanism.
The fingerwheel was bent. I straightened it between two pieces of hardwood by tapping with a hammer. Here are some photos of the 4H dial:
I finished up one of the D1/202 phones today, and it works well! I don't have a subset for it yet, but I made a cheater subset to test it. I posted some information on the cheater subset in the Technical Stuff forum.
I washed the base and handset with Simple Green. For the base, which has about 80% to 90% of its original finish, I polished and buffed it with Carnauba Wax, which brought out a nice shine. I buffed the handset with Novus 2, then applied a final layer of Carnauba Wax.
Good job, Ed. That looks really nice! Congrats on your purchase, another nice phone preserved!
Benny
Ed....that is beautiful! Outstanding job. Did you use a 302 base for the subset? They do a really nice job....fantastic 202 and I love the dial card...Doug
I made a cheater subset just for testing while I'm waiting for a WE 684 subset I found on eBay to arrive. There's a description of the cheater subset and couple photos in the Techical Stuff forum:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=19732.0 (http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=19732.0)
That really is a beauty, Ed. I love the dial card. Now you need to rustle up a decent 684 subset for the complete effect. I will keep my eyes peeled for you.
Butch, thanks, but I have one on the way. Found it on eBay. Hopefully it works as seller says it is "untested."
It's unlikely that it's broken, unless it was messed with. WE was built for forever. I have 2, one was really ugly, so I took a chance on it. Works perfect. :)
My 684BA subset arrived yesterday, and I hooked up the D1/202 phone with E-1 handset to it. I first connected it to a BK 1045 tester. The subset would ring, but I got no dial tone, although the dial registered correctly on the tester. I hooked the phone to my house line, and still no dial tone.
My mounting cord for the D1/202 with the E-1 handset is a three wire cord, red/green/yellow. Since the phone worked properly on my "cheater subset" as described above, I figured the problem was with the subset.
The first thing I did was add a jumper from BK on the 202 dial to BK on the 684 subset. Still, NO DIAL TONE.
The second step was to check the 2uF capacitor. It tested 0 capacitance. So I temporarily tacked in a 2uF capacitor, and voila! The phone works! I got a dial tone, the phone rings, and it dials out. I've ordered some 2uF caps rated at 250 volts, so when they arrive, I will permanently repair the 684 subset.
So, it appears that the D1/202 phone won't work with the 684 subset with a three wire mounting cord? A four wire cord is required, with red/green/yellow, and the black lead from dial BK to subset BK?
I have mine wired to a 634 subset with 101a coil, but yes 4 wires. its an anti sidetone phone. To wire it sidetone you have to wire the phone like a 102, then it'll work on a 3 wire subset cord. These diagram threads sure helped me a million times. http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=784.0
Yes, there should be a 4-conductor cord between the 202 and the 684A subset. (BK on dial to BK terminal in subset).
However, I don't know why you don't have a dial tone without the black wire. When I try disconnecting the black wire of my kitchen 202 from the BK terminal in the 634A subset, I still have dial tone, but with less side tone reduction.
Can you provide photo of the inside of the 202 base?
Butch: I used those excellent diagrams, but I didn't see one for a 102.
Poplar1: my first post in this thread has a photo of my 202 internal wiring. I can provide more photos or info if needed. The phone is wired exactly as shown for a 202 in the diagram mentioned by Butch with E1 handset, except for the 4th black wire from dial BK.
102 wiring and 202 wiring are the same minus the black wire. Also, isn't that just a 195A 4 wire condenser in that subset?
There must be a problem with the subset, then, other than the capacitor. You should have dial tone without the black wire.
Do you have a parts 302 that you could borrow the base from?
I don't agree that a 3-conductor cord can be used (permanently) if connected to R, GN, and L2 in the subset. This leaves the capacitor out of the circuit.
I don't have a parts 302 base.
Here's how I wired the 202 to the 684 with the three wire (red/green/yellow cord that came with the 202:
Green wire from 202 GN to 684 GN
Yellow wire from 202 Y to 684 L2
Red wire from 202 R to 684 R
With this hookup as above, no dial tone, but phone rings, and dial tested ok.
Adding a jumper from 202 BK to 684 BK and a good 2uF cap, I got a dial tone, phone rings, dial works.
Butch, yes 195A cap.
I can't tell from the pictures, but if you don't have dial tone with the capacitor (black and red) disconnected, and no black mounting cord wire, then there is definitely something wrong that won't be corrected by replacing the capacitor and 4-conductor cord.
The ringer works, so the 1uF cap to the ringer is ok. I know the 2uF cap is open. The only other component in the 684 is the 146 coil. So I assume there must be a problem with the coil? My "untested" 684 subset seems to be a dud.
Is the induction coil a 46C or 146C?
With all the wires removed from the coil, the 146C and 101A induction coil should have approximately the following resistances:
L1-R = 22 ohms (primary)
GN-C = 19 ohms
GN-R = 75 ohms
Thanks! I will check out the resistances tomorrow, and verify which coil I have, too,
This is at least turning out to be very interesting. You do have all the fun, don't you, Ed?
Interesting, Butch, but frustrating, too.
Poplar1: You are right. Looks like the 146 coil between GN and R is open. Here are my observations:
L1 - R: 14.9 ohms
GN - C: 9.5 ohms
GN - R: Open
The other two windings are also a good bit off from the values you posted above.
I suppose my best bet would be to replace the 146 coil with a 101A and add a 2uF capacitor. Know anyone who sells 101A coils? ::)
Quote from: Ed Morris on February 03, 2018, 04:07:21 PM
Know anyone who sells 101A coils? ::)
there are several listed on ebay at the moment.
Haf
Yes, and I've bought one!
While I'm waiting for my 101A coil to arrive, I finished up the other WE202 phone I bought with the one shown above. I could not get the 5H dial to work correctly. It appears the timing is way off. On the BK 1045 tester, no pulses are detected until you dial a 5, which registers as a 1, 6 registers as 2, 7 as 3, and so on. Cleaning and lubricating didn't help, which is the extent of my dial servicing knowledge. So I found a working 5H and swapped it out for the bad one.
I decided not to buy a subset for this phone; instead I installed a micro R-C network inside the base, which allowed me to use a mounting cord with a modular connector. I used the R-C network described by Markosjal in his thread at this link:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=18142.msg186888#msg186888 (http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=18142.msg186888#msg186888)
You can see a photo and diagram of my version of the micro R-C network at the same link.
I had a nice dial card from another phone that I used with the 202.
Two beauties Ed....you done good. Send your bad dial to Steve Hilsz. He will get it working for $6 plus shipping....Doug
Thanks, Doug. I've sent an email to Steve.
I got my 684 Subset up and running finally. I swapped out the bad 146 coil for a good 101A I purchased online. The 101A came with a good capacitor, so I was able to swap out capacitors, too. I connected the D1/202 with the 5H dial and F1 handset, using a temporary mounting cord, as I didn't have a cloth four wire cord handy, and it works fine:
Congrats! Nice work bringing 2 more old phones back to life.