Make a 302 sound as good as a 500?

[Lewes2]

I love the look and feel of the WE302 but as an every day office phone, I find the sound quality a bit deficient. Would it be possible to modify/change say just the handset ( yes I know it's going to look different) or would other components need to be swapped out as well? 

Has anyone done something like this before? 

Is this even technically doable?  Please don't suggest I buy a fake retro model. 😊

Chuck

[poplar1]

Yes, WE tried it. There are 302s with F4 handsets; these handsets look the same as F1s but have the same T-1 transmitter and U-1 receiver used in the G-1 handset found on 500s. They also converted 302s to 5302s, and some of these had G1 handsets. However, both 302s with F4s and 5302s with G1s were not recommended on short loops--i.e., close to the central office--because the sidetone would be too high.

You could, however, use a 202 with F4 handset and a 685A subset with a 5-conductor cord going from the phone to the subset. There would be a slight difference when compared to a 500, because of the shape of the handset, but electrically it would be equivalent to a 500, and suitable for either short or long loops.

[Lewes2]

As a test, then, can I simply swap out the transmitter and receiver elements from a G handset to the F1 handset or are there physical and electronic factors which would preclude this working. (recognizing the sidetone issue)

/c

[unbeldi]

As a test, then, can I simply swap out the transmitter and receiver elements from a G handset to the F1 handset or are there physical and electronic factors which would preclude this working. (recognizing the sidetone issue)

/c

Well, if you try it you will find that they don't fit automatically. The handset has to be modified a little.  For the transmitter, the F4 handset had two spacer rings that held the T1, and the receiver cup was specially machined for fit.

[poplar1]

The T-1 transmitter would fit, although there were adapter rings furnished to keep it centered. However, the U-type receiver is too large unless the receiver cavity is reamed out. A Trimline receiver would be small enough to fit.

[Lewes2]

Poplar, you have mail.

[dsk]

Changing the receiver and transmitter may do the most. The automatic loop compensation of the 500 are still missing. adding a 220 ohms resistor across the transmitter may help, and resistor in series with the hole telephone may make the line "longer" I would try 220 ohms here too.  These modifications are reversible, and do not ruin a fine phone.

dsk

[Lewes2]

Thanks, dsk. Is there an optimum wattage for the 220ohm resisters? 

Also, I am using a Vonage VoIP router for the phone network in the house. Is my loop the distance to the router, to the local  Comcast facility (Comcast provides Internet access) or some other location?  Our Vonage router is very happy accepting rotary pulse dial outs.

Chuck

[dsk]

1/2 watt should be plenty.

dsk

[Lewes2]

First off, I do appreciate everyone's patience.

So, just as a test, I tried using a handset from a 1970 CD500 and simply hook it up to a working 302, replacing the F1 handset.

The 500 handset has two white wires going to the receiver with what appears to be a dark blue resister?  no marking on size. photo below.

Didn't work - did not know where the second white wire attaches in the 302.

Tried one, then the other and then both on the dial W.  No go.  Where should the second white wire connect in the 302. 

[Phonesrfun]

The second white wire (either one) goes with the red handset wire.
White to dial W
Black to BK on the dial
Red and other white wire to R on the induction coil.

[Lewes2]

So, I managed to buy an F4 handset (again, thank you Poplar1) and connect it to the just finished 302.  It worked fine with an acceptable level of side tone.   Volume levels, transmit and receive, were greatly improved over F1 handset.

Decided to try the F1 handset but  with a T1 and LB1.  Nothing.  Dead.  Tried putting the F! transmitter back in but keeping the LB1 receiver.  Still nothing

As the photo shows, I removed the F1- receiver spring contacts and installed jumpers to an LB1 receiver.  This LB1 has a nice rubber gasket around it so it fits snugly in the receiver cavity.

Nothing happening.  Tried switching terminals and still nothing.

Do I need to add a jumper in the  on the network - red and white?  But that doesn't make sense since there is only one white and one red going to the phone. 

What will make this work?

Thanks-

chuck

[Mr. Bones]

Decided to try the F1 handset but  with a T1 and LB1.  Nothing.  Dead.  Tried putting the F! transmitter back in but keeping the LB1 receiver.  Still nothing.

Chuck,

     It might sound simplistic, but are the T1 and LB1 known to be good, were they pulled from a working handset? Do you have way to test them, if this is an unknown?

     I have overlooked the basic stuff before, when troubleshooting.

     I wish you great luck in finding a simple, expeditious solution to your dilemna!

Best regards!

[Lewes2]

Very frustrating day, yesterday.  I actually tried three LB1s and none of them worked.  Then I tried connecting the U1 from the F4 handset, putting it in the existing F1 handset.    It wouldn't fit all the way in the receiver cavity but I could hold it up to me ear - nothing.

Yet when I connect the F4 handset it works perfectly.  The old HA and F1 elements work in the old handset, but not the T1 nor the U1/LB1.  Weird.  More testing and playing today.

Chuck

[Kenton K]

Maybe the jumper wires are open. See what the resistance through then is.

Ken