I have tried to make this manual (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1j-s3V-ZXQO-VSwhKnBU_NT2u9L6Z_VDga-1PRuxdPwI/edit?usp=sharing) and will try to update the manual when I see needs for that. No copyright, but please remember to link to this forum!
If you need help to read out the data please let us try to help you at this thread. When you have measured with Audacity, please post you AUP file or link to the file here.
Have fun
dsk
Never got any feedback for this one, does that mean that its not easy to read? If you could help to make it better, thank you!
dsk
Yesterday is the 1st time I saw this thread. It looks interesting. I'm interested in giving it a try. Thanks for all the research dsk.
I just measured a "new" dial before cleaning, and maybe I do not have to do anything with it.
As you may see the breaks are slightly uneven but on the other hand my exchange accepts it.
(http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21034.0;attach=192645;image)
Here is a more rare, and difficult one. This is obviously not a standard dial, the last break is looooong compared wit the 9 others. They are considerably shorter than a normal break.
(http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21034.0;attach=192650;image)
As far as I know, this will not be recognized by a normal dial speed meter. Here we may observe it on the visualized recording, and act as we need.
hey @dsk
Thanks for this manual.
I'm new to this forum and would like to test my dialer with the help of this manual
I have the following question:
The 0.1uf that you suggest, is it an electrolytic capacitor? if yes, does it matter where its plus leg is connected to?
if not, what kind of cap do you recommend?
On your manual I see you say this adapter is not needed at all. which manual version is the latest?
I recommend you add revision # and date to your manual, jm2c
Will appreciate your reply
Thanks
I used a non polarized capacitor, but I guess that in most cases you do not have to build that adapter at all, but just connect the dial/telephone to tip and sleeve on the microphone jack. Just remember to short the line before you connect to discharge the ringer capacitor.
The parts and connecting to headphone outlet will make it possible to get a cleaner reading, but by experience; it is rarely needed.
dsk
It is a lot tha tmay make the dial test go wrong. The only safe measurment is on a dial disconected from the phone.
On the other hand, it usually is OK to measure on the phone as a complete unit.
Still I hav a German phone that dialde OK om my old exchange, the measurments was insane, both with the digital meter and with the old phone tester. ( BK Precision 1050 ) The dialgizmo did still work :-)
In this case it was the filter across the pulse contacts that made trouble. You may see the details here: http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=26172.msg255011#msg255011
I'm finally getting around to giving this a try. I have downloaded the manual but I'm not sure I understand the schematic. Where do you connect the tester to the phone?
EDIT: 2nd problem - I just realized that my laptop (my only computer) doesn't have separate mic and headphone jacks - only a combined one. Any suggestions on how to make a connection to that?
You may probably find your pc pinout here: https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Notebook-Audio/HP-4-conductor-headphones-mic-jack-What-kind-of-pinout-CTIA/td-p/4254364
You could also get an external plug and play USB sound card.
Search eBay for "USB sound card" to see the large variety available.
Here's one for example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313578863726
They have mic in and headphone out.
Connect the mic in leads to L1 and L2 either on the network or at the line cord wall plug (if modular, you will need a modular jack to access the modular plug's red and green (L1 and L2).
This is another topic on checking dial speeds.
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=17011.0