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WE multline 565 lamp hookswitch help

Started by allnumbedup, April 01, 2020, 02:15:29 PM

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allnumbedup

I am converting my multi-line WE phone to residential use and am providing a separate power source for the lamps.  I think I have the 425E network set up like one would for a normal 500 series phone (pic: note random color change on the green hookswitch lead to red) and the phone components all work. I removed all the connectors for the 636a key set mechanism from the am-phenol cord and thereby separated the key set from the other components of the phone. On the keyset (pic), I jumped the LG together and jumped individual line contacts (L1 to 1T, L2 to 2T etc) so that pushing clear buttons activates the lamps individually with a 8V DC transformer across the circuit. I have the red hold button lamp separately connected so that it lights constantly through LH and LG.  I have a four line cord leaving the phone to a small junction box and plug the transformer to two of the lines and the other two use phone function into a modular jack--sort of like a princess phone converter set up.

What I want to know is the best way to use the hookswitch so that all lamps are off unless the handset is raised. What I came up with is putting the transformer current on each side of L2 and R on the network which are shared by the grey and yellow hookswitch leads on L2 and black hook switch lead on R.  On the bottom of the network picture you can see the black wire from the transformer on L2 and the green line from the keyset on R.   It works okay but I think I notice a slight change in lamp brightness when I change the polarity of the power supply leads or  tip and ring plus there is a little static when buttons are pushed.  Any better way to use the hook switch or not have the lamps burn independent of phone use? thank you
Analog Phones for a Digital World

poplar1

In a 564 or 565 Key Telephone, only one side of the line was interrupted by the hookswitch. If you are copying a 500D or 500DM, then both sides of the line are opened when the phone is on-hook.

So, you can connect the green line cord wire to F instead of L1, and free up the two hookswitch wires (green and white?) that are presently connected to F and L1 to power the lights.

Transformer should NOT be connected to R on the network as this is part of the talk circuit!
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Key2871

Agreed, way back  before I had an actual key system, I used the H and M switches to control lamp, but it also had to be connected through the switch hook.
Tip, was T ring was R and only one side of the other hook switch was operating the telephone line to disconnect either by using a different line key, or by placing the handset on hook.
H was common on each key, and M was the other side of the switch
KEN

allnumbedup

Thank you both for your speedy replies. My phone is much happier now. JC
Analog Phones for a Digital World

allnumbedup

oh and I just figured out-----and hook black ringer wire from L1 to F so it will ring?
Analog Phones for a Digital World

Key2871

The ringer wants voltage where you can provide it.
Normally in a key set its on the key it's self, but since your not using it in the conventional way. Where ever the voltage comes in on, in your case obviously the F terminal because that's tip. Ring is elsewhere. As long as it works.
KEN

poplar1

Black ringer wire on F with green line cord wire.

Red ringer wire on L2 with red line cord wire.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Babybearjs

I just saw the 636 photo.... they did it wrong... the jumpers are suppose to go between the L terminals and the H terminals with the power coming in at the 1B terminal and ground.  then the line cords go to the T and R terminals. also, don't ever remove unused screws... you'll only have to replace them when you have to convert the phone back to a regular multiline phone.

  H1-L1, H2-L2, H3-L3, H4-L4, H5, L5.    12 volt AC: 1B and LG (all terminals, 1-6) also you can use HL for a power indicator. (adding another 51A lamp) telephone lines go to T1-R1, etc (mutiple phone lines) If you DON't want to use the key strip the make the line connections, and you are ONLY using 1 line, the tip and ring wires go on F and #9. move ringer wires to appropiate terminals for connection. all other connections remain unused and stay as wired. (unless needed)
John

Key2871

It's been years but I too made my set light up etc not using a ksu to do so. So I don't recall every thing I changed and it was a lot.
But cool thing about the key sets of that era you could do so much with it just by rewiring a few things.
Good luck.
KEN