Two 302 NE and the other ????

[TelePlay]

I have to repair slats because I made a mistake trying to adjust the governor. so first of all I have to straighten the slats. When it happened, I was not in the mood because the screwdriver slipped and what happened, happened...

Without pictures of what you bent, I have no idea of what happened, what you did.

All poplar1 was suggesting you do was to place an obstruction (he said small screwdriver, I used a round toothpick) in the governor of my frozen clutch 5H dial when the dial was at rest and then turned the finger wheel ever so little in the direction of dialing a number.

The white circle is the pick in place before trying to turn the finger wheel showing a small gap between the pick and the governor center speed adjustment bar. The image on the right, the red circle, shows the pick prevents the governor from turning, it comes to a stop, when the finger wheel is turned and the governor moves in the direction of the red arrow.

If the clutch were not frozen, the pick would hold the governor still while the finger wheel could be turned to any number (important to take the pick out before releasing the finger wheel so that the clutch can engage and the dial return to rest.

[Contempra]

Teleplay , I tried what David said to me , so I need to disassemble the dial . What I circled in red and yellow , that's what I have to straighten because I wanted to disassemble, but the screwdriver slipped and some slats are now crooked (twisted and I almost hurt myself.

[TelePlay]

Ah, the leaf switch pile up. Glad you didn't get hurt.

[Contempra]

Ah, the leaf switch pile up. Glad you didn't get hurt.

Yep , the leaf pile and , thanks GOD I am not injured, only a small scratch in the hand. all because a screw was tight to death lolll . More fear than harm I would say.

[TelePlay]

A bit late now, but to clean the governor clutch, it is not necessary to remove the pile up.

The governor is accessed from the finger wheel side of the dial by removing the finger wheel, the number plate and then the bar that holds the gear assembly and governor into the dial case.

This bottom half of this photo shows the retaining bar in place (2 screws in red), the bearing points in that bar for the gear and governor shafts (green and blue lines).



The top half shows what it looks like after the bar is removed, the gear exposed gear is lifted out of it axel bearing point in the case (white circle) and the governor assembly is seen and easily lifter out of the governor raceway.


This photo shows the governor removed (there are two small washers, one on each end of the governor axel shaft -- the green lines show their location in the assembled dial), the governor clutch is exposed for cleaning, a bit hard to get to but the only way to clean it. This image was from a working 5H dial and even though the clutch is quite crudded up, it still functioned properly.



The 5H, like the 4H, has a removable governor but getting to it is a bit more difficult than simply taking the gear train assembly apart on a 6H or later dial (as long as the gear train is put together with 3 machine screws and not riveted in place in the later, cheaper WE dials (and the 6H and newer dials have this mechanism on the pile up side, the under side of the dial, making disassembly easier).

Also, with the 4H and 5H dials, the pulse brake (if taken apart but it is not necessary to take apart to clean the governor clutch)



must be assembled correctly to insure a clean break/make pulse being sent down the line (discussed in other topics on this Forum).

 

[Contempra]

Well that will be useful for the next one or more 5H dials . Thank you very much .

[Contempra]

Hi guys , well, I've been a little busy with other phones to repair and here I come to mine. I saw the photos that teleplay uploaded, but..... if I want to remove the governor, I have to remove the entire center. So how do I take all that off ?

[TelePlay]

I saw the photos that teleplay uploaded, but..... if I want to remove the governor, I have to remove the entire center. So how do I take all that off ?

This just created topic was started in 2019 and shelved so as not to compete with the king of dials business. But, since you asked, it is now posted and is not for the faint of heart - the 5H dial is much more mechanically complex than the #6 and later dials.

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0

The leaf switch pile up DOES have to be removed because of the parts mounted on the switch side of the dial case on the main spring shaft which open and close the talk circuit mute/open switches and pulse the numbers dialed have to be removed.

[Contempra]

This just created topic was started in 2019 and shelved so as not to compete with the king of dials business. But, since you asked, it is now posted and is not for the faint of heart - the 5H dial is much more mechanically complex than the #6 and later dials.

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=27061.0

The leaf switch pile up DOES have to be removed because of the parts mounted on the switch side of the dial case on the main spring shaft which open and close the talk circuit mute/open switches and pulse the numbers dialed have to be removed.

I was well aware of the complexity of this dial. I pretty much reassembled the dial, I put it in a bag for later . From kidding more than an hour, lost and found a piece that I had dropped, I said to myself; That's enough for today .

[TelePlay]

. . . lost and found a piece that I had dropped, . . .

Using one, and for the 5H maybe 2, ice cube trays to hold parts in the order they are taken off of a dial is a wonderful thing to do (as long as you don't hit the tray when filled with parts and have them all go flying so keep the tray away from your working area).

[Contempra]

Using one, and for the 5H maybe 2, ice cube trays to hold parts in the order they are taken off of a dial is a wonderful thing to do (as long as you don't hit the tray when filled with parts and have them all go flying so keep the tray away from your working area).

Thanks for your comment TelePlay . Yes I know, I have small bowls that are only used for that, it's not the fact of not putting the parts in each bowl, it was by dismantling them (Screws so tight...) and a little washer from the governor... I found them, don't worry, but as long as I haven't repaired the 'pile-up', it's no use to me right now. I'm going step by step, but the next 5H dial, I'll remove the dust cover, digital dial and unscrew the wiring and soak the entire dial in an alcohol solution for a few days if I find one. whose parts are seized up, but if I find one that only needs surface cleaning and oiling, I won't touch it any further.

[TelePlay]

the next 5H dial, I'll remove the dust cover, digital dial and unscrew the wiring and soak the entire dial in an alcohol solution for a few days . . .

Use lacquer thinner. Alcohol is water soluble and will not dissolve oils or oil crud. Lacquer thinner is best for  removing oily crud. And unlike alcohol, there is no water in lacquer thinner and completely evaporates from metal parts.

Even pure alcohol, moonshine, 200 proof, 100% ethyl alcohol (ethanol) is hygroscopic, will absorb water out of the atmosphere until the water content is about 10% (90% ethanol, 180 proof).

Alcohol purchased at the store has even a higher water content.

And you can save and reuse the lacquer thinner several times, the dirt settles out.

[Contempra]

Use lacquer thinner. Alcohol is water soluble and will not dissolve oils or oil crud. Lacquer thinner is best for  removing oily crud. And unlike alcohol, there is no water in alcohol and completely evaporates from metal parts.

And you can save and reuse the lacquer thinner several times, the dirt settles out.

Okay thank you TelePlay . I'll try it since you can find this liquid in local hardware stores .