302 conversion

[GTElover]

Hi everybody, I have a spare 302 and 500 that I'm thinking of converting to use as a subset for a 202. I hear it can be done.  Also I wouldn't have a cover for either conversion are the covers easy to come by or would they have to be remade.

Regards
Matt

[bigdaddylove]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

You can learn a lot by using the search function. Here is a topic relevant to your questions:

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=349.msg3143#msg31430

From what I have read in various discussions here is that a 302 is a much less complicated and much better looking conversion than a 500.

Ray Kotke, who goes by kleenax, is one of the folks who can supply a 302 subset cover.

Take care,
BDL

[Phonesrfun]

By far, the better way to go is to convert a 302.  The 500 conversion is one that you can do if you don't have a 302.  Also, the only cover available is one from Ray Kotke that covers a 302 base.

The 302 innards are exactly the same as used in the subsets that would be used on the 202.

[Tim Mc]

Here are a few notes on a 302 subset project I'm working on.  First, a little background:  I had one of my 302s in our bedroom, but someone called very early one Saturday AM a few weeks ago and ended the fun.  After that my wife asked that I switch out the 302 with one of our D1/202s with no ringer.  She prefers the look of the D1/E1 over the 302 anyway, so I installed a simple resistor/capacitor (RC) circuit for daily use (thanks to this forum for that).  Even though it works, it's not "complete" and I miss having a ringer, even if it will get me in trouble. 

I just happened to have a rough 302 base so it made sense to re-purpose it as a tricked-out subset with a ringer on/off switch, bell adjuster and built-in DSL filter.  First, I added a ringer adjustment lever with three settings from a 302/5302, which changes the pitch from a low din to a loud, clear ring.  I was a little surprised at how well it works after rotating the bell positions a bit to get the best sound.

Second, a DSL filter was tied onto the top of the condenser using a zip-tie.  The modular lead on the filter was cut off and used to connect the L1 & L2Y terminals with some spade crimps back into the 'phone' input mod jack on the filter.  The line-side leads were then hard-spliced with a modular line cord for now. 

I thought about hiding the subset in a hollow book, but Ray Kotke's 302 subset cover was too nice to pass up.  A few days ago I received a black cover from Ray (looks great).  I picked up a small toggle switch today with a short retro-looking toggle, but I'm hesitant to drill a 1/2" hole in the new cover.  Since someone had already drilled an unauthorized hole in the base, I might look into cutting a mounting tab and folding it back into the base so the switch can be hidden on the bottom, or at least recessed a bit on angle to clear the bottom of the base.  Then again, I may delay adding the on/off switch and see how well the bell adjuster works on the lowest setting.

Instead of sitting the 302 base on a table I might add a hanging wire between the two feet and mount the subset on the wall over or near the RJ11 jack.  Worse case, I could drill a mounting hole in the base.  The recovered 302 feet won't leave a mark on the wall if it needs to be moved, so that's a plus.  A new cloth-covered subset cord will complete the project.  This will hopefully give the D1 a classic subset look while hiding the DSL filter and line cord.

I'm curious if anyone has wall-mounted a 302 subset before.  Ideas and thoughts welcomed. 

Thanks,

Tim

[poplar1]

Tim, the cover is copied from a North Electric; the original has a "catch" (to borrow a québecois word) so that the cover can be removed from the front. Perhaps you could mount the subset to a backboard first? That way you could use screws from the back. I did this once to mount the subset and a 211 space saver on the same backboard, but I can't recall now how I did it.

Here's someone else's idea from the early 1900s: Notice the metal hanger on the back of the subset in the first picture. Could something like this be attached to the metal 302 basepan?

[Tim Mc]

Here's the final product.  The first pic is the modified 302 base with the DSL filter installed.  The line cord was routed through the base vents (required cutting and crimping a new RJ11 plug).  For hanging the subset on the wall, I loosened the 'top' feet and routed an insulated wire through the lower foot alignment holes and re-tightened the foot screws to hold the wire tightly by friction.  A knot on each end of the wire prevents it from slipping back through the hole.  By the way, the ringer is on the bottom since the 302 cover has vents on the ringer end.  With the vents facing down the internals cannot be easily seen through the slots and it won't collect dust.

The second pic is the previous naked 202.  The visible DSL filter has just minutes to live.

The third pic is the new setup from installation just a few minutes ago.  Fortunately I was able to back out the upper wall plate screw and just hang the subset by the stretched wire.  This saved a new hole in the wall, but does expose the top of the wall plate.  If the wife approves then I may mount it a little higher over the jack.

[JohnInWI]

Tim,

I think that's a great way of installing the subset without making extra holes in the wall!

-John

[Tim Mc]

Thanks John - better to be lucky sometimes.  I'm happy with how it turned out.  Fortunately the wall jack screw is about an inch long, so I was able to back out a few threads.  I also got the approval from my wife on the ringer volume, so all is well.