I finally found a nice example of a "Toaster Phone." All of the parts seem to be appropriate if not all original. The parts are dated in the 50's. As far as I can tell, it dials out and receives calls fine. Unfortunately, my phone doesn't ring even though it looks to be correctly wired. I could use some help with that.
The receiver caps won't budge. I haven't put much force behind it. You can see that the receiver cap is cracked.
The cool heavy-weight coiled cord needs some vigorous hygiene. What color was the coiled cord originally...beige? gray? white? The coiled cord restraints are marked H4BR_III_57 and the line cord looks original: D3BB_I_55. It looks to have been repaired at some point. The dial (TA-45C/GT) is 8/54.
I was also wondering about the wiring diagram that is usually seen on the base of these phones. Why wouldn't mine have one? Should it? If so, are they available?
Thank you,
Tina Loyd
More pictures.
Just a couple more.
How is the line cord terminated? Yellow from the line cord is to the black of the ringer. In the termination of the line cord bring red and yellow together. Move Bias spring lever on ringer or try a We ringer in its place.....Doug
TP-6-A diagram from TM11-468, Department of the Army.
The original HS cord on this set was a straight black cord.
Quote from: Doug Rose on November 11, 2016, 01:28:51 PM
How is the line cord terminated? Yellow from the line cord is to the black of the ringer. In the termination of the line cord bring red and yellow together. Move Bias spring lever on ringer or try a We ringer in its place.....Doug
Is your recommendation a change from the original wiring diagram? (I found the attached diagram on CRPF but I can't remember where I found it. Sorry.) The diagram shows how my phone is currently wired. I know I have had to change the ringer wiring in my WE302's so I will give it a try.
I am wondering if the chunky coiled HS cord was made during a certain period of time.
Thank you,
Tina Loyd
The red from my line cord goes to L2, the yellow goes to GND then another yellow goes to the condenser. From the condenser, a slate wire connects to K with black that goes to the ringer. Am I supposed to drop two condenser wires?
Still confused.
Tina
This phone originally came with a two-conductor cord only, I believe, so I would wire the cord exactly as shown in the diagram, without using the ground conductor (yellow) in your cord. Simply ignore the third wire.
I think all Signal Corp sets were connected with metallic ringing in two-wire lines without ground connection.
Some of the other Army phones (TP-6, etc.) had a three conductor cord, but the Army connected the yellow wire to the green wire at the junction box.
Red ringer to L1
Black ringer to K
Slate capacitor to K
Yellow capacitor to L2
L1<----------RINGER----------->K<-------------CAPACITOR------------------>L2
LINE CORD:
RED TO L1, GREEN TO L2 (WILL ALSO WORK AS SHOWN IN YOUR PHOTO WITH GREEN TO L1 AND RED TO L2)
Quote from: Doug Rose on November 11, 2016, 01:28:51 PM
Move Bias spring lever on ringer or try a We ringer in its place.....Doug
Doug,
I also meant to ask about what you meant by "move the bias spring lever." I know what it is but how should I move it?
Thank you,
Tina
Quote from: cloyd on November 11, 2016, 12:53:51 PM
The cool heavy-weight coiled cord needs some vigorous hygiene. What color was the coiled cord originally...beige? gray? white? The coiled cord restraints are marked H4BR_III_57 and the line cord looks original: D3BB_I_55. It looks to have been repaired at some point.
H4BR is the second generation Western Electric coiled cord for color 500s. You don't need 4 conductors for the handset on a TP-6-A. Perhaps you or someone can use this cord to restore a 1957 500.
D3BB is the correct mounting cord (line cord) for a black 500 (1950-1957). The cord end with wing restraint (shown in your photo) is the end that attaches to a 42A connecting block on the wall, or to a 283B plug. That's why the leads barely reach the terminals inside your phone.
Tina...end of the line cord to the wall or jack, terminate the red and the yellow together. It should ring. If not on the ringer move the bias to the right or left, just pick up the metal lever and move up and over. If that does not work, replace the CT ringer with a WE, they look the same...Doug
Thank you for your replies,
I tried everything mentioned, including trying a known working WE B1A ringer from one of my 302's but the B1A doesn't ring in the Toaster, even if I move the bias spring lever. The I-1 ringer that I took out of the Toaster was tested in a 302 but it didn't ring there either. So the I-1 ringer from the Toaster is dead but there is something else going on. Any other ideas?
Also, I have a 1957 black WE 500 for the coiled cord. I wish the cord was black though, anyone want to trade? I am still unsure of the original color.
What would a TP-6-A have for cords? I understand that they used a two conductor line cord but, more specifically, did Connecticut make their own HS and line cords or use another company's cords?
Thank you!
Quote from: cloyd on November 13, 2016, 06:30:21 PM
Thank you for your replies,
I tried everything mentioned, including trying a known working WE B1A ringer from one of my 302's but the B1A doesn't ring in the Toaster, even if I move the bias spring lever. The I-1 ringer that I took out of the Toaster was tested in a 302 but it didn't ring there either. So the I-1 ringer from the Toaster is dead but there is something else going on. Any other ideas?
Also, I have a 1957 black WE 500 for the coiled cord. I wish the cord was black though, anyone want to trade? I am still unsure of the original color.
What would a TP-6-A have for cords? I understand that they used a two conductor line cord but, more specifically, did Connecticut make their own HS and line cords or use another company's cords?
Thank you!
I am pretty sure, that the Army had specific requirements for cords, and most definitely they would be black, and likely had to be synthetic rubber, isoprene, neoprene, etc. I don't know what Con.Tel. used in terms of materials exactly. They may have bought them from suppliers. They also may have had to have rubber grommets in the cord exits.
Tina...black from the ringer went to the yellow of the line cord. You did not say if you teminated the yellow and red together on the line cord. Move the black from the ringer to the red where the line cord terminates on the coil. If your 302 ringer worked in a 302, it will work here in the CT Toaster....good luck...Doug
Quote from: poplar1 on November 11, 2016, 06:38:32 PM
Red ringer to L1
Black ringer to K
Slate capacitor to K
Yellow capacitor to L2
L1<----------RINGER----------->K<-------------CAPACITOR------------------>L2
LINE CORD:
RED TO L1, GREEN TO L2 (WILL ALSO WORK AS SHOWN IN YOUR PHOTO WITH GREEN TO L1 AND RED TO L2)
So, it wasn't the ringer after all. I had to move the yellow from capacitor 3 to L2 (it was on GND). Now both ringers, the B13 from the WE302 and the I-1 that came with the phone both work! Thank you Poplar! I also checked every wire connection with the diagram that I posted earlier. That information coincided with what Poplar had said so I tried it with success. Success is so sweet. I also terminated the yellow line cord with the red at the wall jack. It's all good.
If I ever get the transmitter cap off, I will replace the handset cord. I already put lubricant on it a week ago which is how I got the receiver cap off. Other tips?
Any suggestions on repairing the receiver cap? Is the crack due to shrinking? It was difficult to remove because the crack caused the threads to misalign. The threads on the handset are worn to nothing on one side. If I repair the crack by bringing the ends back together, will it be too small?
The handset seems to not be bakelite. Is that right?
Thank you all!
Tina
Try some heat and a strap wrench on the stuck cap. I use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the caps. I have seen a lot of bakelite handsets with plastic caps which looks like what you have.
Quote from: cloyd on November 16, 2016, 07:22:10 PM
Any suggestions on repairing the receiver cap? Is the crack due to shrinking? It was difficult to remove because the crack caused the threads to misalign. The threads on the handset are worn to nothing on one side. If I repair the crack by bringing the ends back together, will it be too small?
Tina
You might try wrapping the receiver thread with Teflon (plumbing) tape.then screw on the cap as a starting point.
JMO,
Jim S.
Quote from: HarrySmith on November 16, 2016, 08:30:40 PM
Try some heat and a strap wrench on the stuck cap. I use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the caps. I have seen a lot of bakelite handsets with plastic caps which looks like what you have.
Did the handsets come that way from the factory or are these replacement caps that someone used?
I'm not so sure that the handset is bakelite. Without thinking, I used ATF with acetone to loosen handset caps and it ran over the handset. Every place it touched dissolved a little. Am I right to think that means its not bakelite?
I hesitate to use a strap wrench because of the experience others have shared about the handset cracking and breaking. If I want to switch the cord, I'll have to give it a try. I'll use the heat first though.
Tina
Conn TP6A handsets are usually a bad quality plastic.it cracks,peels etc. Will not buff well either