565HD Multiline Phone-How do I convert to ring

[WesternElectricBen]

Hello,

I have been working on one of my 565 Multiline sets with the single gong and I have wondered how do I convert it to ring. I have got it to dial out and talk but don't know how to ring. I suppose I have to move a wire but I'm not sure what color combo/color wire I need to move to wich terminal.

Also, I have a light transformer, does anyone know how to make the push buttons light up?

Thanks,
Ben

[poplar1]

Move the ringer wires to the line you want to ring. If the ringer has 4 wires, move the red and black to 1T and 1R if you want the first line to ring. The wires are probably currently connected to the Slate-Yellow and Yellow-Slate wires of the mounting cord (terminals RR and RT), but they may be on another line (2T-2R, 3T-3R, 4T-4R or 5T-5R).

There is a thread on here somewhere about connecting the lamps without a KSU.

[poplar1]

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=8615.0

See Adam's reply #26 showing how to hook up lamps to work without a key system.

By the way, these lamps are 10 Volts AC. If you have a 2012A or C transformer, these are 6 VAC for a Princess or Trimline, so the 10-Volt Lamps will work but will be dim. If you have a 2012B or D, these are 18 VAC and will burn up the lamps unless you connect 2 in series or add a resistor.

[WesternElectricBen]

Move the ringer wires to the line you want to ring. If the ringer has 4 wires, move the red and black to 1T and 1R if you want the first line to ring. The wires are probably currently connected to the Slate-Yellow and Yellow-Slate wires of the mounting cord (terminals RR and RT), but they may be on another line (2T-2R, 3T-3R, 4T-4R or 5T-5R).

There is a thread on here somewhere about connecting the lamps without a KSU.

Thank you, I got it to ring, I probably won't be lighting it up. Maybe I will on another phone when I get my shoe box 1a2.
Ben

[AE_Collector]

Tip, Ring, A, A1, Lamp Ground, Lamp.....

[WesternElectricBen]

Tip, Ring, A, A1, Lamp Ground, Lamp.....

I feel bad, I forgot that...
Ben

[280Parka]

Now I'm REALLY frustrated.  I Have an ITT 564 5-line phone.  As far as I can tell it is basically the same as my Western Electric 565HK except for different looking components, but they are all in the same place and seem to be similarly connected.  I wanted to get the ITT to ring on line 1 so I took the red and black ringer wires off of RR and RT and moved them to 1R and 1T.  I connected  terminals 1 and 26 from the Amphenol connector to my phone line, pushed the line 1 button with phone off hook and got a dial tone.  So far so good.  I called my number with my cell phone and another house  phone started ringing so I knew I was getting the ring signal, but no ring on the ITT.  I checked my connections, everything appeared to be OK. I made sure line 1 was pressed with phone on-hook and tried again, no ring.  Out of frustration I started pushing the other line buttons.  With line 2 depressed I got a ring!?  Nothing is connected at all to Amphenol 4 and 29.  The crazy thing is when I took the phone off hook with Line 2 depressed I was able to answer the call, but I couldn't transmit or receive.  However by pressing the Line 1 button after pressing 2 I was able to receive and transmit.  I'm flummoxed.  Any suggestions?

[AE_Collector]

See if you can post a picture of connections inside the phone. Ringer pade terminals shorting between adjacent line 1&2 screw terminals? Where is the Ringer capacitor in the circuit?

Terry

[280Parka]

I had the same thought about shorting to the Line 2 terminals but it appears to be clean (although I can't see below the terminal pad).  The capacitor appears to be connected according to the dual gong ringer normally with the (S-R) lead attached to to Network A terminal and (S) lead attached to Network K terminal (unknown to me ITT network but it appears to have all of the typical connections).  Below are before and after photos of my phone.  I am using a WE565HK schematic as a guide assuming that it is similar?

[Weco355aman]

You have it wired correctly. Do you get dial tone on line one of this phone.
If so there may be a ringer issue. If you do get DT, you can short the Cap term A and K and if the bell coils are good this will sound like someone has picked up a 2nd phone on the same line, this is a fast test.
DO not leave the cap shorted or this will busy out the line.
Phil     

[HarrySmith]

It may be just the angle of the picture but it looks like several of the crimp part of the lugs are touching other terminals.

[280Parka]

It may be just the angle of the picture but it looks like several of the crimp part of the lugs are touching other terminals.

I checked again and it is just the angle, the crimps aren't touching.  Even if they were shorted wouldn't pushing 1 or 2 get dial tone and ring?

Here is a photo  of the ringer and connections at the network.  I've labeled the A & K terminals and the slate and slate/red leads since they are hard to see.

[280Parka]

The problem may be solved.  I removed what I thought was a hair from somewhere between the ringer and the network before taking that last photo.  Then I was then going to try the capacitor short test so I rang the line again but this time the ringer worked with Line 1 depressed!   I looked at the "hair" again and discovered it was a very thin metal shaving (see photo).  Unfortunately I can't remember where the shaving originally was located so I can't determine what "new" circuit was being created.

[280Parka]

Now I'm looking at my Western Electric 565HK again.  I want to do the same thing that I just did to the ITT so that the ringer will work off of line 1.  Unlike the ITT the Western Electric has a single gong, single coil ringer and it is connected a little differently.  The Ringer (B) lead is connected to the RT pad terminal with Ringer (R) lead connected to the WE4228S Network K terminal, a (S) lead connects Netork A terminal back to RR on the pad terminal.  I assume this difference is to get the capacitor into the single coil ringer circuit.  I thought I had read somewhere that certain PBX ring circuits don't always need the capacitor protection since they are not always connected directly to the incoming CO line, and was concerned (until I traced the circuit) that it might damage the phone if the capacitor was left out.  Can I assume that it will be OK to move the (S) lead to 1R and the (B) lead to 1T?

[280Parka]

Another issue with the Western Electric 565HK, which also came with a small buzzer.  You can just make out the blue wires coming out of it in the lower left corner of the photo I sent in the last post.  It is connected to terminals 5 & 6 on the key terminal pad, which are then attached to 18 and 43 on the Amphenol connector.  I've read that the buzzers will burn out if connected to ring voltage so I just want to make sure I'm reading the schematic correctly, because I also understand the buzzer could be connected directly to the XT and XR terminals of a line key switch if desired.  So as long as I see nothing else connected to 5 & 6 (which are just attachment terminals and are not connected to anything underneath?) other than the blue buzzer leads and the yel/grn, grn/yel leads to 18 and 43 on the Amphenol connector, then it should be an isolated circuit and I don't need to worry about connecting the ringer to 1T & 1R.  Correct?

BTW, Thanks for everyone's patient help, I'm new to the key phone world.