Hi guys,
I have a WE 555 board that I am slowly (Read: VERY SLOWLY) taking apart, cleaning up, and will have it displayed in my future "Man Cave." Right now, it will be for show. BUT - I keep getting the wild idea to set it up and make it work, running my house phone through it, and perhaps a second phone line as well.
I believe that I need some kind of electric power to get it to run as I doubt that the juice in the regular phone line is enough to drive that board.
Is there anyone who can let me know what is required to do this, and also point me to the schematics (even a simple diagram like "attach Tip wires here and Ring wires there?"
Help? My brain is overloaded, and I need to know if this is even a good idea.
Thanks much!
Ed
They are not powered by the phone line power, and do require a separate power supply of either 24 volts or 48 volts, I don't know which, because unfortunately, I don't have one. They would also need a source of 20 Hz ringing current, which can be had from a 1A2 key system 115A frequency generator, which come up on e-Bay every so often, and are readily available.
Others here have 555's and there are circuit diagarams available, and many have a schematic attached to the back door of the board.
If you can read a schematic diagram, there are plenty of them out there on the TCI document repository, which can be downloaded. They are NOT as easy as connecting a 500 phone to a phone line, to be sure. If you don't yet read schematics, it will be a learning experience.
I believe what you are trying to do is do-able, providing there are trunk circuits for outside telephone line connections, which a 555 shoud have.
Good luck.
Yes it isn't too complicated. As Bill says, you need a power supply with good filtered DC talk battery and AC ringing voltage in it. I had my 555 hooked up to 24VDC and it worked just fine. There are several pins on the block inside the cabinet that you hook the AC & DC to and then away you go.
Terry
The diagrams for a 555 or a Leich L55 will both work and old 1a2 powersupplies should be easy to locate. If you can solder this is not hard.
You might have to clean some of the plugs and jacks .
Robby
Ed, You can get a Key System Power Supply that will have all the voltages and ringing frequency that you need. The ringing power goes to terminals 22 and 24. The 24VDC goes -24 (ring) to terminal 1. +24 (tip) goes to 45,46,47,48. Some BSP's for the 555 that are in the TCI Library are 536-550-110 and 536-550-230. I have other BSP's on it but I don't know if they are in the TCI Library. That is about as far as I have made it with my 555. It is on my long list of things to do.
Doug Pav
Doug,
We both must have pressed "Post" at the same time, but my post seems to have vaporized somehow in the process. Weird!
OK, what I was wondering before I read your post is if I could use a power supply from a Panasonic 616/308 switching system? If not, where exactly do I find one of these power supplies?
I just looked on ebay and found nada. Do you have a specific model and manufacturer for the power supply? Or perhaps a source that you - or someone else could direct me to, aside from ebay?
Thanks for the terminal number info, by the way!!!!!
Ed
Search for 19B2 or 20B2. I believe the difference between the two is that 19B2 doesn't have a ringing generator, and the 20B2 does.
Ed, You're welcome on the terminal numbers. I don't know about a Panasonic power supply, whether you can take one out of it or if you would want to sacrifice one. Something like this might work > http://bit.ly/hXMNCu < but I don't know the voltages of this unit and if you are patient you should be able to get one at a better price. I used a Lorain power supply and I have attached a couple of pictures of it. Maybe others will tell us what they used.
Doug Pav
I think I have some key power supplies. These would be old Bell system supplies.
Also I beleive that 555's could be wired 24 or 48. 24v will prolong lamp life.
Jim
One of these days I will have to get a 555. I have a 552, which is pretty useless. It looks real nice, but it was a PBX board and needed a whole room full of equipment to function.
Quote from: Jim S. on April 17, 2011, 07:57:20 PM
I think I have some key power supplies. These would be old Bell system supplies.
Also I beleive that 555's could be wired 24 or 48. 24v will prolong lamp life.
Jim
Hi Jim,
If that is the case, 24v would be preferred to keep the lamps alive longer. If you have a 24v power supply (especially with the ringer frequency current,) I'd love to hear more about it.
Ed
The most commonly used power supply is a 101G, is that what you are offering, Jim?
I found out it is a lot more complicated than just plugging it in! Different voltages and frequencies are needed. The BSP on power for the board is in the documents I uploaded # 536-550-210. I purchased a 20B2 unit at the Shipshewanna show last year as I wastold it was a newer, better unit than the 101G but it does not supply the proper ringing frequency. I was advised at one time that a power supply from a printer can be used for the 48 volts. I have not done anything with my board but hope to one day soon.
Here is some info I was given a while back on powering switchboards:
"Manual PBXs were originally powered with DC and 20Hz "Generator" sent over cable pairs from the CO. The 555 was specifically designed to operate over a wider voltage range and require less current than previous cord PBXs to broaden the range of conditions/work further from the CO requiring fewer parallel cable pairs to operate at a given distance.
Cable pairs were an economical low maintenance cost choice because for many years many parts of many large cities had DC or 25 Hz service, which were not conveniently convertible to power telephone equipment since they required motor-generator sets or very large very heavy transformers. At the time of introduction of the 555 60 Hz commercial AC power was becoming ame universally available and the 101G was introduced as the first Bell System power plant capable of deriving 20 Hz ringing current from 60 Hz commercial power. It was used to power small manual PBXs (506, 507, 551, 555) and Key Telephone Systems (1A and later 1A1).
Approx in the late 60s the 101G was superseded by the more economical 20 and 30 type Power Plants which provide 30 Hz instead of 20 Hz. But these were used only for Key Telephone Systems, not PBXs because the 30 Hz ringing was inappropriate. For one thing it was incompatible with certain kinds of equipment."
I don't know Harry,
I Got a bunch of key stuff last fall. I think I have some power plants. I will have to see what is there. I probably have something that will work.
I hope to go thru It before the KS show at the end of the month. I will post a list of the power supplies.
Jim
Jim
Quote from: Phonesrfun on April 17, 2011, 08:03:31 PM
One of these days I will have to get a 555. I have a 552, which is pretty useless. It looks real nice, but it was a PBX board and needed a whole room full of equipment to function.
Bill,
I know where there is a WE 555 "left-handed, Blind attendant" switch board.
You could probably get it cheap.
Jim
Tell me more.... what is meant by a left handed blind attendant, other than maybe the obvious? Any way to see a photo, and where might it be?
-Bill
I'd advise against trying to re-purpose a Panasonic power supply.
Panasonic manufactures everything they use, down to the level of individual electronic components. Thus they tend to design things very specific to their intended purpose. For power supplies, they tend to design for the greatest possible electrical efficiency, a) because these things are sold all over the world including in places with expensive electricity, where total life-cycle operating cost is relevant, and b) for green marketing advantages (they also make Prius battery packs for Toyota, and some solar stuff).
I would guess that a Panasonic power supply wouldn't have enough current output to power a cord board. The result would be blown fuses on the power supply: fuses are replaceable but bothersome.
Better to stick with a 1A2 power supply. That'll have a higher power consumption level overall, but will produce enough current to power the switchboard with room to spare.
Quote from: Phonesrfun on April 18, 2011, 01:05:45 AM
Tell me more.... what is meant by a left handed blind attendant, other than maybe the obvious? Any way to see a photo, and where might it be?
-Bill
It is in Colorado Springs. A blind Attendant switchboard has a seperate console mounted on the side (usually right) . This console is about 18"x 18" . It works with air and might actually send an air jet thru the buttons on the seperate adjucnt.
This board has the "blind adjunct" on the left and the boards orientation is Left to right.
It used to be $1600-1800
The price keeps dropping. It was holding at $350? You could probably get it cheaper.
There is a trucking option as well.
I will try to get by and take some photos.
Jim
Hi All;
If your 555 has trunk capability then you can attach it to your home phone line provided it is a landline... I don't know if anything else would work, but you need two wires to hook up to your home phone line.. and a Station line or STAL or extension line to hook up your phone to, like a WE 500 or what ever... You can hook as many of them as you like, as long as you have extensions.. I have three phones hooked up on my 557. You do not need a power supply to make it work, as I leave my power supply off, most of the time, and the board works fine.. Just no lights, but if you know which plugs to plug into then you don't need the lights...
Here are some Pictures of my Board.. The first Picture is with NO Power attached, the rest have power applied.. And the Board works fine.. with or without power.. Power is applied to the Tie points in the Back under "Bat" or "batt" and "Gnd".. The ringing (If you need it) is on the "misc." lines, among other things... my misc line numbers are different than yours, for ringing. And I don't need ringing for now..
THANK YOU Marty
Hi All;
There is a nice article in April 2011 of Singing Wires part 2 , on manual Switchboards for explaining some about them.. I have started to look at it, but I have not read it all...
THANK YOU Marty
Hi GG!
Thanks for the advice on not re-purposing a Panasonic power supply. Much appreciated as you saved me much frustration and aggravation!!!
Hi Marty!
A big thank you to you for posting the photos and offering connection information! That was truly a great thing that you took the time to do this!!! I'd like to have power for the lights and for ringing. My Mom used to run a 555 board back in the 1970s, and it'd be a kick to make it all work.
All of you other guys are awesome too! I am continually amazed by your willingness to help, and share!
I still will need a power supply, and there were several model numbers mentioned in your posts. It sounds like I should get one that gives 24VDC, plus, AC Ringing Voltage at 20 HZ (but I don't know the voltage for ringing.)
A "101G" was mentioned by Harry as a proper power supply. Hopefully Jim S has one in his supply of Key stuff.
Hi All;
Ed, I need to clearify what I stated, because of some work I did yesterday.. I got extension to extension to work, and that you need Power to work, because it needs "Talk Voltage", which you have to supply.. Whereas when you are using, trunk to extension, you do not need any voltage, to supply talk voltage.. If you need any more information, just ask, someone may know... Also if you need only 24-27 volts, there were power supplies for the old 8" Floppy drives that provided 24 volt and also 12 and 5 volts... You would only need the 24 volt, but they are regulated....
THANK YOU Marty
Hi All;
My understanding of the 101G is there are two different types, I have the Square box one and it ONLY has Ringing, Where as the Rectangular Box has Both Ringing and other voltages.. Mine came from a KTU (Shoebox) as one of its two supplies.. One for ringing (101G) and the other to supply the other voltages needed to run the KTU... Possibly I had an Early unit and later units had Both Supplies in the Same box..
THANK YOU Marty
I checked the power supplies. Short answer is they are all 24volt w/ 30hz ringing.
I will be talking with Fred Haynes later. I think he has told me to not worry about using 30hz on a switchboard. Fred built a lot of switchboards as a Bell employee. He has restored a lot of them as a "Switcher".
I think these will work.
JMO,
Jim
I checked with Fred Haynes (he may join).
Fred said the 30 HZ is fine for the WE 555.
The switchboard doesn't care about the HZ. It just switches it. The phones that are connected to the switchboard are the items using the ring voltage.
He felt these are a great power supply for old switchboards, you can mount the power supply in the bottom of the switchboard .
He also suggest mount steel casters to the bottom of the board for ease. (Ace Hardware).
Jim
I have several of these 24VDC 30 HZ key systems power supplies $30 each plus shipping if any one is interested please PM me. These are missing the covers.
Quote from: Jim S. on April 20, 2011, 11:07:22 PM
I have several of these 24VDC 30 HZ key systems power supplies $30 each plus shipping if any one is interested please PM me. These are missing the covers.
Good use for a power supply that is missing the cover becasue if you mount it inside the 555 cabinet you don't want to be fighting with the power supply cover anyway.
I also agree that the PBX doesn't care what the ringing frequency is. The phones might but most phones would have SL ringers anyway so they would work fine. A frequency ringer would likely need to match the power supply frequency though.
Terry
Other uses for these power supplies include:
homebrew telephone testers and intercom systems
You get 24vdc filtered talked battery, 24vdc signal power (lamp) and 30hz ring
Note: The lamp power on these type supplies are pretty clean so you could probably use it as a 2nd talk battery.
JMO,
Jim
In my experience with Western Electric power supplies like the 19B2 and 20B2 which I used with key systems, the 24VDC signal was not clean enough to use for talk. It was meant for powering relays. Only the 24VDC filtered was usable for talk and not "hummy".
And this might differ in a 555-type PBX, but in a key system, lamp power was 10VAC, which the 19B2 and 20B2 power supplies also supply.
Quote from: Jim S. on April 20, 2011, 11:07:22 PM
I checked with Fred Haynes (he may join).
Fred said the 30 HZ is fine for the WE 555.
The switchboard doesn't care about the HZ. It just switches it. The phones that are connected to the switchboard are the items using the ring voltage.
He felt these are a great power supply for old switchboards, you can mount the power supply in the bottom of the switchboard .
He also suggest mount steel casters to the bottom of the board for ease. (Ace Hardware).
Jim
I have several of these 24VDC 30 HZ key systems power supplies $30 each plus shipping if any one is interested please PM me. These are missing the covers.
Just a little warning from hard experience. I, too highly recommend casters, BUT, don't try to install them without help. Several years ago when I got my 555, I decided to put casters on, but when it came time to do it, had no help. It wasn't too hard to get it onto its side to drill and add the casters. When it came time to set it upright again, the whole board crashed down onto one of my legs, and I wound up on the ground, pinned by the board.
I got my self out, but wound up with an extremely bruised leg.
I have used a NE Key system supply in mine (used in QUJ9B and QUJ10A and other NE Systems), and a QGG1A frequency (ring) generator.
NOTE: The photo of the supply shown below was taken when the power supply was still in the KSU - The 24 volt signal line is not used when powering a 555 - only the talk line. The 10 VAC is used with a 555, but only to power the ring generator which is not part of the supply. Some supplies will have a ring generator built in. I am clarifying this since I get the impression that some people were going from the wiring shown on the supply photo, and that is causing confusion. ONLY 24 VDC talk is used as well as 100 VAC 30 cycle ring.Incidentally, mine started out life as one of two 555's bought from an antique shop in Western PEI. The boards had been stored for years on the earth floor of a barn, each with pieces missing - fortunately not the same pieces on each board, and sides rotted from the dirt floor. By combining both, I came up with one good unit. New sides were traced from the original sides and duplicated in birch plywood then stained accordingly. The one advantage of getting one in this condition, is it taught me a lot about the board, and the price couldn't be beaten - the two cost me $100.00 total.
The remaining parts from the other board were parted out to help others with 555's. I kept one spare cord unit for myself, so my $100 buy went a long way towards providing me a good unit, and needed parts to others.
Eventually, a line was installed using amphenol connectors to a 66 block on the wall, where additional phones were attached. This allows me to quickly disconnect the line when it comes time to haul it out from the wall when I am working on the board.
Dave
DavePEI, What is the lamp voltage on your power supply? It was mentioned earlier that lamp voltage is either 24 or 48 volts and that the lamps will last longer with 24V. I posted a picture of my power supply on page 1 of this thread and it lists lamp voltage as 10V, 8A. I don't have my switchboard in service yet so I can't tell if the 10V will work or not. Would it work with 10V or would I have to change all the lamps? Also, what terminals do you have all your different voltages going to? Thanks for any info you can offer.
Doug Pav
If your board is 48 volts and you run it on 24 the lamps will last longer.
if it is 48 and you run it on 48 it should make a difference in lamp life.
If it is 24 and you run it on 48 your lamps will die quick.
Summation- It is probably best to run these boards on 24volt.
I am thinking the lamp supply is 24 DC at least on 1 style of these supplies. I have 3-4 styles of key power supplies.
I will try to post the #'s or photos tonite.
Jim S.
Could someone post a photo of a switchboard "Drop light". They are a neat item and this is a
good thread to add the photo to.
Quote from: Wallphone on April 21, 2011, 09:00:36 AM
DavePEI, What is the lamp voltage on your power supply? It was mentioned earlier that lamp voltage is either 24 or 48 volts and that the lamps will last longer with 24V. I posted a picture of my power supply on page 1 of this thread and it lists lamp voltage as 10V, 8A. I don't have my switchboard in service yet so I can't tell if the 10V will work or not. Would it work with 10V or would I have to change all the lamps? Also, what terminals do you have all your different voltages going to? Thanks for any info you can offer.
Doug Pav
Hi Doug:
The lamps are 24 volts, and that is what most people power their boards with. In this case, the ring generator runs off the 10 volts from the supply (from memory) . The 10 volt output isn't used if your PS had a ring generator built-in. The 24 v is for lamp and talk voltages (some do feed 48 into them and get away with it). Wires are doubled only to increase current carrying ability.
You can click on the photo below to enlarge it for easier viewing.
Dave
Thanks Dave. I'm curious about how many different voltages you are tapping in to on the power supply. I was thinking that you only needed two voltages, Talk & Ringing. Mine is wired 24VDC filtered for talk and 100V 30Hz for ringing. You said that you are using 24V for ringing. Did you mean 24V for Talk & Lamps?
Doug Pav
Quote from: Wallphone on April 21, 2011, 11:16:19 AM
Thanks Dave. I'm curious about how many different voltages you are tapping in to on the power supply. I was thinking that you only needed two voltages, Talk & Ringing. Mine is wired 24VDC filtered for talk and 100V 30Hz for ringing. You said that you are using 24V for ringing. Did you mean 24V for Talk & Lamps?
Doug Pav
No, the fact that I also need 10 volts from my supply is confusing you. That is only for the QGG1A ring generator, as the ring generator is separate on this supply. I only use one 24 vdc output for the board, but as my ring supply is separate, I need to provide voltage to supply it (which happens to be the 10 v.)
So really what is being used for the actual board, is the 24 vdc, and the ringing voltage (100 vac 30 cycle from the QGG1. If your supply incorporates the ring voltage, both the 24 volts DC and ring voltage come directly from the supply. In that case, the 10 volts wouldn't be used.
The talk and ringing was just a typo in the last message. It has been corrected.
Dave
I may be interested in one of the power supplies Jim.
The switchboard "Drop Light" is a neat item. I am looking for one! I have a bulb, I thought I was buying a lamp assembly but it was only the bulb!
Quote from: HarrySmith on April 21, 2011, 03:33:36 PM
The switchboard "Drop Light" is a neat item. I am looking for one! I have a bulb, I thought I was buying a lamp assembly but it was only the bulb!
Hi Harry:
I have a drop light I use with my switching demo. I hope this is what you were talking about. It is powered off the 48 VDC supply of the demo unit. I use it not only when working on the switch, but also to light photos of PEI's old switches located next to the demo.
Dave
Yeah Dave, thats the one!
I want one for my board ;)
Anyone going to the Abilene Texas show can pick up a 24 volt supply chwap! This member posted on the list recently:
I have an older model S.C. Power Supply in good condition that I will bring to the Abilene show if there should be any interest in it
It is a S.C. PS-100 115 volt power Supply. AC Output 10V & 18V. DC Output 24V Signal & 24V Talk.
Don't expect much for it. Just don't care to bring it to the show unless someone is interested. I'm going to be packed with other phone "stuff" !
Will email photo to anyone interested.
Thanks!
Bill Whitlow
whitcomm@embarqmail.com
Quote from: HarrySmith on April 21, 2011, 04:23:38 PM
Yeah Dave, thats the one!
I want one for my board ;)
They are great. It took me a while to find this one, but they do come on eBay every so often. The bulbs are hard to get for them (with the re-enforced face), but there are modern par bulbs in various voltages without the heavy diffuser. When I got this one, I was fortunate that I got two bulbs when I got this one, so I should be ok for a while.
Hi All;
I got Ringing on my 557 Switchboard, It uses different pins than the 555.. and it works with or without 24 volt power to the Board.. See my posting on the 557 for more details...
THANK YOU Marty
Quote from: marty on April 21, 2011, 04:36:09 PM
Hi All;
I got Ringing on my 557 Switchboard, It uses different pins than the 555.. and it works with or without 24 volt power to the Board.. See my posting on the 557 for more details...
THANK YOU Marty
Don't forget that 555s and 557s though they are built on the same chassis, share some of the same modules, and look similar, but are completely different animals.
Dave
Quote from: Wallphone on April 21, 2011, 11:16:19 AM
Thanks Dave. I'm curious about how many different voltages you are tapping in to on the power supply. I was thinking that you only needed two voltages, Talk & Ringing. Mine is wired 24VDC filtered for talk and 100V 30Hz for ringing. You said that you are using 24V for ringing. Did you mean 24V for Talk & Lamps?
Doug Pav
Doug,
Your 24vdc filtered talk and 30 HZ ring are all you need. The other 24volt lamp power is spare.
Jim
Hi All;
Yes, Dave, I know that they are different animals, But they use the same basic units, as far as the the cord board units and the trunking and the extension units.. The lower part of my unit is like a 555, its the upper part that is different, where a 555 has more extensions, mine has the answering service part.. but the main board part of mine when looking at the SD for it -- says 555... (SD 66520).
THANK YOU Marty
Jim S., Thanks for the info on what voltages I need. That is how I have it wired now but when they started talking about lamp voltages I wanted to be sure.
Doug Pav
Quote from: Jim S. on April 21, 2011, 04:56:15 PM
Quote from: Wallphone on April 21, 2011, 11:16:19 AM
Thanks Dave. I'm curious about how many different voltages you are tapping in to on the power supply. I was thinking that you only needed two voltages, Talk & Ringing. Mine is wired 24VDC filtered for talk and 100V 30Hz for ringing. You said that you are using 24V for ringing. Did you mean 24V for Talk & Lamps?
Doug Pav
Doug,
Your 24vdc filtered talk and 30 HZ ring are all you need. The other 24volt lamp power is spare.
Jim
The photo of the power supply I posted is of it still in the KSU (and the connections it shows are for the KSU, not as connected to the 555; wonder if that is part of the confusion?) - as I mentioned, only the 24 VDC talk voltage is used (as well as the 10VDC used only to power the QGG1A ring generator) On a power supply with a built-in ring generator, you will be able to get 24VDC talk, and ring directly from the supply. The lamp voltage is derived from the 24 VDC talk voltage.
Why somebody mentioned the lamps is that some installations used 48 volts talk suppies. If a unit designed for the normal 24 volts to a 48 volt supply, its lamps will have a very short life.
Dave, I was just making sure that it didn't need three different taps on the power supply. It looks like I'm all set with the Lorain power supply that I have. It seems strange to me that your QGG1A takes 10VDC and converts it to 100VAC 30HZ. But that is probably because I don't know much about Key Systems yet. A TCI member gave me a 1A2 Key System but I haven't picked it up from him yet.
Doug Pav
Quote from: Wallphone on April 21, 2011, 07:08:19 PM
Dave, I was just making sure that it didn't need three different taps on the power supply. It looks like I'm all set with the Lorain power supply that I have. It seems strange to me that your QGG1A takes 10VAC and converts it to 100VAC 30HZ. But that is probably because I don't know much about Key Systems yet. A TCI member gave me a 1A2 Key System but I haven't picked it up from him yet.
Doug Pav
Hi Doug:
While I didn't save a photo of the full QUJ11A KSU, here is a photo of the full QUJ9A KSU unit. It uses the same power supply and frequency generator, as did many NE 1A2 KSU's. I don't know why it was built separate from the power supply unlike the Loraine, but that is the way they did them. Perhaps it was done this way as changing the ring generator unit would be less expensive than replacing the whole supply if the ring generator failed. This KSU is the one I use for demo of 1A2 in the museum - I have it set up with 5 phones on display in a working configuration.
I also have a 1A system too, but not set up yet. That system uses a rotary stepping switch for intercom, unlike the electronic system in this unit.
The main Key system in the museum is a Norstar 6x16 complete with all the bells and whistles including MOH, which has three phones in the display area, and one in the workshop; also one in the office, and a Toshiba Strata DK280, and Octel 200 Message server (voice mail not yet in operation) set up with 3 demo phones in the entrance room of the museum. Beside the QUJ9A is a small shoebox KSU.
Oops: I forgot the Tie Modkey 612 KSU system set up alongside the 6x16 complete with three phones. All systems except for the 1A are operational for demos.
I also have two more of the QGG1A ring generators. You use what you have on hand, so I sacrificed the QUJ11A so I could use its power supply and ring generator for the 555 supply. Its excellent ring interrupter and interrupter socket came in useful on my switching demo which I built around the same time as wiring the 555. Most of its KTU's have been kept as spares for the QUJ9B and for the shoebox KSU, and one of its 66 blocks was used to punch down the phone lines connected to the 555 and is connected to the board using male and female Amphenol connectors, so that the board can easily moved when needed. Waste not, want not!
Happy Easter weekend to all!
Dave
Hi,
I was wondering if I posted a pic of my 101G Power Source for my PBX 555 and a pic of the back of the PBX would someone be able to walk me through the wiring required to hookup my PBX?
Thanks from Seattle,
Ruben
Get posting Ruben! Were here to help.
And welcome to the Rotary Phone Forum by the way....
Terry
I'm still learning how to navigate this forum. I hope I'm not posting in multiple places. Anyway, here are some pics of what I have...
BTW, I updated my email to fix the spam issue I was having with my last email account. I'm hoping to hear from you all soon. I will post some pics of a 101G that I have but I'm afraid to use it because there is a wire that is not connecting to one of the posts and their appears to be a ground.
Ruben
In Seattle
Nice board! I am jealous!
Hi Guys,
I'm apparently having troubles posting additional photos of my power plants. I may have to try later. I have a 101G and 20B2.
Ruben
I also want to make a working exhibit for a public museum. I have been unable to find a 555 wiring diagram. Also can somebody tell me what wires to connect to which terminals on these terminal boards. Thank you for any help you can give us. Jim
This should answer your questions:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=18125.0 (http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=18125.0)
Jim Churchill. Thank you very much. That appears to be what I need. A lot of the info and wiring matches up with my 555 Switch Board. There is still a lot this novice does not know or understand on the schematics but a lot of that I don't need. The multi pair cable coming out of my board, with the end connector missing, has a lot of conductors that are identical in color so I will apparently be spending a lot of time tracing them. Also I will then want to figure out if there is a standard pattern of connecting up Amphenol connectors and push down blocks for 12V DC, ring power etc. I might be able to get some of it figured out from old used cables and connectors I have. I suppose at the Amphenol I could just invent my own pattern. Thanks again. Jim McCall Spokane WA
I am continue to make progress on getting a 555 Cord Board to be a working demonstration for the Spokane Valley Heritage Museum in Spokane WA. There are a few parts missing. The main missing part is the rear access cover board. Other parts are small minor parts which I believe will help make it complete but not needed to make it functional. Can anybody help us? Thanks Jim
Hi Jim
This is the important stuff, from what you have. and a couple pics.
it should get you going. :)
If you wish to identify the wires in the big cable, start with the extensions on the block, and trace them to the cut end of cable. colors should be same on block as cable end.
Page G2 Fig. 54 shows battery and ground terminations on the MISC. terminal strip:
BAT = term's 1, 2, 3 & 4
GRD = term's 45, 46, 47 & 48
+/- RINGING = term 22
RINGING GRD = term 24
The R/H portion of the 4th TS seems to be marked "MISC" 1-52. That's where power and other singular connections are made.
To the left of that it's marked "TRKS" 1-14 on the fanning strip with T&R on the terminal insulation strips themselves, which is where the incoming trunks to the CO trunk units connect.
1 through 4 is battery -24v, 45, 46, 47, 48 is battery +24v, and 22, 24 is ring voltage.
Keep in mind the terminals can be strapped from the front, as well as the back of the strip. They attached -24v to terminal 4 with is strapped with terminal 1 through 4. Ground +24v went to frame ground, because of strapping is common with 46 through 48. Ring is 21, because of strapping 21 is strapped to 22. Drawing shows Ring voltage on 22, 24.
The feed from the ringing source is supposed to terminate on 20 with a strap between 20 & 21 so that ringing can be disconnected if necessary by removing the strap rather than having a lead with ringing on it not tied down to a terminal.
12 & 16 are strapped - as they should be.
24, 28 & 32 are strapped - ditto
25 & 29 are strapped - ditto
35 & 38 are strapped - this does not match the SD. The SD shows 37 & 38 strapped. Terminal 35 feeds a ground to the CO trunk circuits in the left and right panels and is fed from an external building or CO ground.
38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44 are strapped together on the factory side of the TS. 40 also terminates a lead to the framework so there is no reason to be tying cable leads to screws on the framework.
One Tip. Clean the contacts of both Ringing keys on each cord unit. If you find when you plug in, your supervisory lights dont act the way they should, or you cant hear or transmit from an extension, start here. Tip and Ring go through these contacts on the way to the cord plug. It took me a while, but when i was troubleshooting my board, I found dirty contacts on the Ringing key causes all sorts of problems.
RB Thank you very much. With your excellent help I got everything working except the trunk lights do not come on. I can however make a demonstration unit for our museum without using trunk lines. JIM
I did in fact get that 555 lit up and running properly. We now have another 555 for our nonprofit public Spokane Valley Heritage Museum but it has an additional problem. The wires at the Terminal Blocks have all been cut including removing a section of cable loom that goes from the MISC terminal block to the controls inside the Switch Board. STA and TRK wires will not be a big issue but it will take some time to track some wires and connect them. The real problem is that "MISC" wires such as 24VDC, ring voltage etc have some colors duplicated. I do have wiring diagram SD-66520-01-G2 so I have good documentation on the terminal numbers but I don't know which wire to connect to the duplicated colors in the loom wire. In other words I don't know where to search for the ends on the controls to make sure I am connecting to the correct loom wire to the MISC terminal block. It appears I need diagrams that were used in the factory to build the 555. I have been advised that they may be out there someplace. Or I need to understand the schematic mentioned in this posting so that I can find the control end of those wires. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jim
Wow Jim.
I hope you have a large cup of coffee.
Your gonna need it to wash down that huge bite you just took. lol.
I can't think of anything harder, that tryin to trace all the wires in a board...
Your gonna need a Beep box.
Most dvm's have them built in now.
Determin what your goin for, then look at the actual part, like extention #1 on the board.
It will have 2 wires going directly to it from the terminal strips.
T & R.
The colors of those wires are what you are lookin for at the end of the loom.
Clip one end of the dvm to T or R, and touch each wire in the loom end, till you hear a Beep.
You don't need to restore every extension, just the ones you want to work again.
Use the same process to do the next extension.
RB, yes. Thank you. The T and R for STA and TRK are not the problem other than taking time. The problem is the various wires that are on the MISC block such as battery, ring voltage and a host of others. I don't know where they go (where the other end is) deep inside the switchboard. Hence I can't necessarily tell which wire is battery etc.. In other words I don't know which wire in the wire loom is battery, ring voltage etc. Jim
Yup, your gonna need the schematic.
In the upper left corner, are all the misc connections.
There again, you will need to find a component, and trace the wires.
I think there is a filter cap in the primary power circuit.
And a switch on the board to turn on/off power.??
those are the two things that will help you find the right connections.
Which will get you started...Then the fun starts!!!
Yes. I am going to have a ball. Want to join me? :D
Sure, bring it to Dallas, and we can get it working :)
Good Luck with all that wiring. Have you checked all the documentation I have stored on Google? The shematic should be in there.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6eDAxemj1VHZjk2NTgwNWItMGUzNy00YzhhLWI4NGQtNzc3MTU4OGE5MjRh
Harry I have now. Thank you very much. The t-66520 gif series images are hard to read. Do you have them in pdf? Jim
Quote from: MuseumTelephones on June 14, 2019, 08:24:30 PM
Harry I have now. Thank you very much. The t-66520 gif series images are hard to read. Do you have them in pdf? Jim
Have you checked the TCI library?
Search WE 555 switchboard using the google search option. I found 146 items.
https://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/search/google-search
Jim
Jim. No I didn't use that search option. Thank you. I now have a bunch of reading to do. Jim
Quote from: MuseumTelephones on June 14, 2019, 08:24:30 PM
Harry I have now. Thank you very much. The t-66520 gif series images are hard to read. Do you have them in pdf? Jim
I may have them on my computer at home. I will check over the wekend and let you know.
I am making progress on tracking the MISC Terminal Block wires back into the interior of the Switch Board controls. However per SD-66520-01-G2 diagram the wire from terminal 16 goes to "IM (NL) REL." it is a RED wire at Terminal Block. Can somebody tell me what "IM (NL) REL." means and where to find it. Thank you. Jim
Jim
Yous gettin in deep dude. ;)
you are gonna hafta posta picof whatchur lookin at.
If you can post a pic of what your working with, we can follow. 8)
otherwise, we gotta go fish for some docs to reference.
Congrats on your willingness to play noodle man, and wade through this.
Pins 8 12 and 13 appear to be jumped together.
you can follow any part to its destination...should help anyway???
My last post didn't get posted. I don't know why. Maybe files too big or something so I will send files in separate posts.
See the second to last page in the SD-66520 document. Terminal 16, where do I find the internal switchboard end of that wire? The document T-66520 may help but the wire goes to a heavy solid line and I have no idea where it goes inside the switchboard from there. Please remember that the Terminal Block "MISC" had been completely disconnected and removed. That leaves me with having to trace the wires back inside the switchboard to determine which one use to go to terminal 16 from the internal switchboard to the terminal block. I also am having trouble finding the wires that use to go to terminals 43,44,45,46,47 and 48, where do they come from? The SD-66520 indicates they come from things like "LT. PAN". What is that and where do I find them and how do I get to them? Any help you can give me is appreciated. Jim
See second to last page. Jim
I can't get the internal wiring document to post. It is in the link provided by Harry Smith above https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B6eDAxemj1VHZjk2NTgwNWItMGUzNy00YzhhLWI4NGQtNzc3MTU4OGE5MjRh Please see document T-66520-38.gif Thank you. Jim
Hmm??? post hasn't shown up???
Abridged version...
Pin 16 to OUTGOING side of BATT switch. The input side has a 125 uf capacitor "-" tied to it. This comes from the BATT
Pins 43-48 are ground RETURNS...
That means they terminated there, and were jumpered at the MISC block... They arn't now... They need to be. Do that later.
GROUND may be found at the "+" point of the 125uf capacitor. in fact, that may be a good place to find and use as reference.
"
RB You are VERY helpful. Thank you very much! I greatly appreciate it. How did you learn all this? You have extensive knowledge and ability. Jim
Yeah, I shud charge for this stuff...lol. ;D
Been tryin to for years, can't seem to find it.
I spent a childhood tearin electrical stuff apart. much to my family's dismay. >:(
had 2 older Bro's took initial interest in electric stuff, but dropped it soon after. But not before I caught the bug.
Been doin it every since.
When I started doin it professionally, I landed a job with TRW fixin hazeltine terminals. in the 80's.
Guess they liked me, cause it wasn't long before they brought us an IBM terminal.
For those of you who don't know, IBM requires their chip mfgs to use their part numbers. Found a way around that.
And they do NOT release schematics so...
No choice but to reverse engineer the boards, and generate our own schematics.
Did that for a bunch of products. So much so, that I got good at it.
Did it on more than a few cars back in the day also. "another thread".
Been doin it all my life it seems.
A few of the oldies hangin around muxed at me at first cause I got a backwared approach to this stuff, but, it all I got.
And it works.
RB Thanks again. The terminal block has 2 red wires in the control/switchboard side of the terminal block. They are on terminals 16 and 39. Please remember that all terminal block wires are cut and are about 2 inches long so they go nowhere. There is no red wire at the BAT switch. I found 2 red wires internal in the switchboard, one at "B" on the capacitor and one at the "NL" relay. Which red wire goes to which terminal on the terminal block "MISC"? Thanks again. Jim
Jim
Congrats, you are doin fine.
The Red wire at "B", is your BATT connection. it is before the BATT switch.
The RED wire at the NL relay, is AFTER the Batt switch. It provides power TO terminal 16
You are workin with "B".
Keep in mind, the cut wires, ALL go somewhere!
Each one matches one in that cut bundle on the left, and most WILL need to be replaced/replicated in some way.
Terminals 13 and 14 shud be your "B", and the wires shud match color.
The wire colors for the switch shud match from term 13&14, and term 16
RB Thank you. I will try to get back to it tomorrow. How do you know all this detail? Do you have wiring diagrams or something? Jim
Just the one you provided. lol ;)
RB Oh. In the interest of future reference please educate me on how you determine the a red wire goes from "MISC" terminal block terminal # 16 to the "NL RELAY". Am I correct about that? I want to document all this for future people at the Spokane Valley Heritage Museum so that when I am gone somebody has a chance of taking care the display. What drawing and where on that drawing? Thanks Jim
Your post, page 4?, cut wires on back of the MISC block.
pin 16 looks red???
Red and Black are common for DC power wiring.
Most of the ground terminals are BLACK.
Could you post a clear pic if the back of the Misc block?
Also, your schematic, page 2 upper left corner under fig2
Those are all the power etc connections.
pin 16 is the incoming connection to the BATT sw, the NL relay is after the BATT switch.
I believe it is also RED, it makes sense.
RB my responses and answers are shown below in this format --- RESONSE AND ANSWERS---. I did that to make it easier for you to find them. Please do not misinterpret that for yelling. Red font, italics and bold do not work.
6/23/19
That means they terminated there, and were jumpered at the MISC block... They arn't now... --- THEY ARE JUMPERED TOGETHER ON THE SWITCHBOARD CONTROL SIDE OF THE TERMINAL BLOCK.---
GROUND may be found at the "+" point of the 125uf capacitor. in fact, that may be a good place to find and use as reference.
---THE CAPACITOR I FOUND IS 50uf AND ON THE SAME MOUNT AS A RELAY MARKED "NL"---
6/23/19
The Red wire at "B", is your BATT connection. it is before the BATT switch.
The RED wire at the NL relay, is AFTER the Batt switch. It provides power TO terminal 16
You are workin with "B".
Keep in mind, the cut wires, ALL go somewhere!
Each one matches one in that cut bundle on the left, and most WILL need to be replaced/replicated in some way.
Terminals 13 and 14 shud be your "B", and the wires shud match color.
The wire colors for the switch shud match from term 13&14, ---THERE ARE NO WIRES ON TERMINAL 13 OR 14 BUT THEY ARE IN FIG54---
6/24/19
Your post, page 4?, cut wires on back of the MISC block.
pin 16 looks red??? ---YES IT IS RED---
Also, your schematic, page 2 upper left corner under fig2
Those are all the power etc connections. --- I AM SORRY TO SAY I CAN'T FIND "FIG2 WHAT SCHEMATIC # ARE YOU LOOKING AT?---
pin 16 is the incoming connection to the BATT sw, the NL relay is after the BATT switch.
I believe it is also RED, it makes sense.---THERE IS NO RED WIRE AT THE BATT SWITCH---
THERE ARE 2 RED WIRES. ONE ON EACH OF TERMINAL 16 AND ONE ON TERMINAL 39. I FOUND A RED WIRE ON THE 50uf CAPACITOR AND ONE ON THE NL RELAY. SO I SUPPOSE TERMINAL 16 WIRE GOES NL RELAY AND TERMINAL 39 WIRE GOES TO THE 50 uf CAPACITOR PER WHAT YOU ARE SAYING AND THE WIRING DIAGRAM. I THINK I MISSED THE OBVIOUS BEFORE, DIDN'T REALLY KNOW WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR.
IF THE PHOTOS ARE NOT GOOD ENOUGH LET ME KNOW. Thanks again Jim
corrections
GROUND may be found at the "+" point of the 125uf capacitor. in fact, that may be a good place to find and use as reference.
---THE CAPACITOR I FOUND IS 50uf AND ON THE SAME MOUNT AS A RELAY MARKED "NL"---
Don't use the 50. It is ground on + side, and after the Batt switch.
Also, your schematic, page 2 upper left corner under fig2
Those are all the power etc connections. --- I AM SORRY TO SAY I CAN'T FIND "FIG2 WHAT SCHEMATIC # ARE YOU LOOKING AT?---
Fig 6
pin 16 is the incoming connection to the BATT sw, the NL relay is after the BATT switch.
I believe it is also RED, it makes sense.---THERE IS NO RED WIRE AT THE BATT SWITCH---
what color are the wires on the BATT sw?
RB - Okay I an not planning on using the 50uf. I have not been able to find the 250uf.
I got the FIG 6.
The 4 BATT sw wires are Green, Gray, OR/Red, and Red/Green
Jim
4 wires??? :o
That puts another kink in the works. ::)
can you post a pic of the batt switch?
Do you have a digital volt meter with an audible continuity setting?
RB I have a good analog here at home with audible continuity. I also have a variety of meters at work, at least one is digital. Photos should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise. Jim
ok, good
I am seeing the same wires on the switch, as on the terminal block
They shud be easy to trace.
I need a closup of the cut bundles that go up into the board.
Fan out the ends a little, and take a pic of the wire ends. I want to see our switch colors.
Next, turn BATT switch off, and trace one wire at a time down to the cut ends. split them out from the rest of bundle.
Do you have a spool of wire? you will need to re terminate a few wires back to the term block.
RB A good photo of the wires will take me a little while. I will get that later. In the mean time please see my wiring charts. No I don't have wires yet. I do how ever have a 552 Switchboard that had been stripped of all the internal controls. I am trying to figure out if somebody would want to fix it up in any way. Probably not worth it. If it is not worth it I will use it as a source for wires of the matching colors as much as possible. Other wise I will have to get wire with non matching color. I think we are both headed in the same direction, connect up all known and obvious wires then solve the problem wires after that. Jim
Yeah, thats pretty much it.
If you trace the wires from the BATT switch, you shud find one going back to the term strip, and one going to the ,what was it, the NL relay?
The one to the strip is the input power wire. and then of course, ground.
after that, its whats missing.
Also, on the misc term block pic, can you fold the top row of wires straight up?
and fold the bottom row straight down?
Then take a pic straight on.
That would expose the middle wires, and I believe we can begin to map this out.
This might be easier than I first thot??
RB - See photo. If you need more or better let me know. It might help you to sort out the photo if you refer to the 2 PDF documents I posted yesterday.
RB - At the BAT switch the 4 wires are Green, Gray, Or/Red and Red/Green. They all go to the MISC terminal block terminals 1,5,8, and 12. None connect up with the NL Relay or the 50uf capacitor. Still the 125uf capacitor has not been found. At this point I seriously doubt the 125uf is in this switchboard. I just need to start connecting wires up and see what is left over if anything. Jim
Hi Jim.
Got the photos.
FYI those are prob the ONLY pics of the back side in existence! thank you.
The BATT switch wires shud be reconnected first. Then the BLACK wires.
I believe, one of the switch wires will be tied to a term point containing a jumper for the run back to the NL relay.
That's where it may pick up the 50uf cap.
The 125 uf cap appears to be an option. and was not needed on your board.
Start connecting wires, and when you get to a wall, we can go over it again.
Here is a pic of my best guess so far. I would verify each before connecting
ENJOY!!!
Jim
As with other components of this type of switchboard, some are of the BASE unit, "which I believe you have".
Some components are optional for configuration differences.
And, still some are updates to the base model.
The reason you cannot find the 125uf cap, is it is not there.
It would have been part of a mod made to the board after it was produced.
The mod along with a few other parts, was to stabilize input batt power, and has not been performed on your board.
I will post a copy of what I believe is closer to your schematic.
And, it will be easier to follow!
RB WOW, how on earth did you find that? Thank you very much. Jim
I have a lot of documentation, I glean every thing I can when I find something new.
There is a doc on Harry's sight that shows a less complicated version of your board, can't remember the name tho...
Hi
I am rebuilding a WE 555 switchboard.
About 2 feet of the internal wiring harness was disconnected between the internal controls and the terminal blocks.
I acquired internal schematics from Harry Smith but T-66520-37 is missing.
I REALLY NEED THE MISSING T-66520-37 for the rebuild. This is for a public non profit museum. Any help you can give me is greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Jim McCall PE
AKA MuseumTelephones
PM sent
If anyone can supply the missing document I will add it to all the others I have stored on Google.
Thanks!