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Need help wiring a KS-21276 connector in pay phone

Started by hydephone, June 07, 2017, 01:02:57 PM

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trainman

Easier to buy a new dial. Go in ebay and look for a 61C dial.


Alex G. Bell

Oops!  And here I've been thinking that CRPF was about fixing phones of enduring quality rather than treating them as disposables!  Sorry for the misunderstanding!  :-(

trainman

So fix it, buy a new one anyway and have a spare. Sheesh.

trainman

Make sure you have the totalizer plugged in. If not, it wont work no matter even if the dial is good.

Doug Rose

Quote from: Alex G. Bell on June 14, 2017, 07:05:13 PM
Oops!  And here I've been thinking that CRPF was about fixing phones of enduring quality rather than treating them as disposables!  Sorry for the misunderstanding!  :-(
if I find the time.......
Kidphone


Alex G. Bell

Quote from: trainman on June 14, 2017, 07:09:17 PM
So fix it, buy a new one anyway and have a spare. Sheesh.
And BTW, the wiring of a dial unit varies depending on whether it's used in a 1C or 1D.  So even if he buys one off eBay he will need the same document to make sure it's wired properly as he would need to check the wiring on the one he already has.  Unlikely an eBay seller is going to know how the one he's selling is wired.

trainman

Moving wires on a terminal board is easier that trying to fix a socket. Not every one can read a schematic. Its easier to follow a chart.

Alex G. Bell

Quote from: trainman on June 14, 2017, 09:26:51 PM
Moving wires on a terminal board is easier that trying to fix a socket. Not every one can read a schematic. Its easier to follow a chart.
Well he's already fixed the socket.  And I think he said he has an electronics background, so that would not be much of a challenge either.  And so far I have not seen anyone offer the chart.

trainman



hydephone

#42
QuoteDo you have any double ended alligator clip leads?

Do you have a spare 11-pin plug like used on the upper housing?  They're used on plug in relays and other electronic devices and are commercially available.

Do you have a DMM?

I do have clip leads i can use.  I do have a digital multi meter I can read voltages with. I do not have a spare 11 pin plug, I'd have to buy one.

QuoteYou need to connect a second phone to the line, pick it up and dial a digit to clear dial tone, then pick up the payphone handset and see whether you hear a click in the 2nd phone when the handset is picked up on the payphone and whether you hear speech from the payphone and tones from the dial in the working 2nd phone.

If you hear a click but no speech and/or tones from the dial reverse the line connections to the payphone and repeat the above talking and dialing attempts.

I don't know how to do this.  This sounds like I would need to take a phone cable, cut it, strip it, maybe solder on some spade terminals, and then connect it to the board.  Probably in the middle where the 4 big connections are.  I can find a cable to sacrifice if I have the jist of what to do.   

Edit:  In my board_in_place.jpg from my June 09, 2017, 12:58:44 AM post, the big yellow four place connection there?  Red, green, then black and yellow?

Alex G. Bell

#43
">" denotes previous questions.

> Do you have any double ended alligator clip leads?

> Do you have a spare 11-pin plug like used on the upper housing?  They're used on plug in relays and other electronic devices and are commercially available.

> Do you have a DMM?
Quote from: hydephone on June 15, 2017, 12:26:06 PM
I do have clip leads i can use.  I do have a digital multi meter I can read voltages with. I do not have a spare 11 pin plug, I'd have to buy one.
Good!

I'll try to guide you along performing tests which do not require an 11 pin plug.  That will require working with the spade tips on the screw terminal board inside the upper housing. 

Normally repairmen use a "cover parking tool" to hang the upper to the side from the back assem. so the cord can be plugged in while accessing the internal terminals and parts, and/or use an 11-pin extension cord consisting of a plug and socket. 

Assuming the phone is still on the wall, you need to create a similar capability, perhaps using a wire hanger to hang the upper.  Perhaps an "A" frame ladder with the work shelf flipped down would be a suitable height to place the upper next to the back assem. while it is still on the wall. 

If the unit is on a table now rather than mounted on a wall you can place the upper on top of a carton to raise it sufficiently for the cord to reach and be plugged in while accessing the terminal board inside the upper. 

Otherwise you will need to repeatedly unplug and re-plug the upper cord which will get "old" pretty fast.

> You need to connect a second phone to the line, pick it up and dial a digit to clear dial tone, then pick up the payphone handset and see whether you hear a click in the 2nd phone when the handset is picked up on the payphone and whether you hear speech from the payphone and tones from the dial in the working 2nd phone.

> If you hear a click but no speech and/or tones from the dial reverse the line connections to the payphone and repeat the above talking and dialing attempts.
Quote from: hydephone on June 15, 2017, 12:26:06 PM
I don't know how to do this.  This sounds like I would need to take a phone cable, cut it, strip it, maybe solder on some spade terminals, and then connect it to the board.  Probably in the middle where the 4 big connections are.  I can find a cable to sacrifice if I have the jist of what to do.   

Edit:  In my board_in_place.jpg from my June 09, 2017, 12:58:44 AM post, the big yellow four place connection there.
Instead of connecting a second phone we can work with the meter.  You  need to connect the meter, set to DC Volts, 50 or greater, across the R & T screw terminals on the yellow 4-terminal block to which the BL-W and W-BL incoming line wires are connected.  If the line is alive you will see ~50VDC across these terminals. 

When the handset is taken off hook, the voltage should drop from ~50V to between 2 and 12V.  If it does we will proceed in one direction.  If it does not we will proceed in another. 

If no DC voltage is present with the handset on hook you do not have a live line connected to the phone.  You must correct that to proceed and the previous conclusion that the phone does not work is invalid.  Its condition can only be determined after a working line is connected.

If ~50VDC is present and does drop when the handset is lifted the line circuit within the phone is intact and if you don't hear dial tone it's due to a fault in the receiver circuit.  Until we confirm that the transmitter circuit functions there could be a fault there too.

If ~50VDC is present but does not drop when the handset is lifted we need to troubleshoot the line circuit paths inside the phone.  You would be best to extend the T&R terminal connections out to the meter using a scrap of phone wire a few feet long so you don't have to hold the probe tips on the terminals during the extended troubleshooting of the line circuit which will need to take place.

hydephone


Okay. 

I have four terminals labeled top to bottom R (ring?), T (tip?), G (ground?), and L1.
Red wire to R, Green wire to T, Black wire and Yellow wire to G.

My multimeter says 53.4 volts across R and T.  This drops to 9.1 volts when the handset is lifted. 

I am hoping this is good data!