How can I get my Do-8 phone bells to ring?

[bbcj]

Hello!

I have a "do-8" rotary phone that I purchased. The phone can dial out and conversation is fine and clear, but it does not ring. I want to use it as my condo's intercom buzzer. The intercom works with a standard modern phone and when someone at the entrance rings my buzzer, I can just dial 6 to let someone in. Can this phone be rewired to work?

Any help/advice is highly appreciated! Thank you!

[unbeldi]

Hello!

I have a "do-8" rotary phone that I purchased. The phone can dial out and conversation is fine and clear, but it does not ring. I want to use it as my condo's intercom buzzer. The intercom works with a standard modern phone and when someone at the entrance rings my buzzer, I can just dial 6 to let someone in. Can this phone be rewired to work?

Any help/advice is highly appreciated! Thank you!

Well, perhaps all you need to do is connect the E terminal to the L2 terminal, or did you do that already?   If so, perhaps you need to adjust the trim pot VR to turn the volume up.  I think this is a Japanese repro phone?

[HarrySmith]

Agreed, move the wire from E terminal to L2, should ring fine.

[twocvbloke]

Join E to L2, or if possible move the wire off E and move it to L2, one or the other...

[TelePlay]

Join E to L2, or if possible move the wire off E and move it to L2, one or the other...

It seems the back line cord wire is floating loose and the "E" terminal screw is loose - as if the black wire was removed from the "E" terminal.

Also, the resistor is hardwired/soldered to the board so it appears that the only option would be to connect L2 to E with a short jumper.

[unbeldi]

Join E to L2, or if possible move the wire off E and move it to L2, one or the other...

It seems the back line cord wire is floating loose and the "E" terminal screw is loose - as if the black wire was removed from the "E" terminal.

Also, the resistor is hardwired/soldered to the board so it appears that the only option would be to connect L2 to E with a short jumper.

That resistor is not part of the ringing circuit. The fixed resistor is part of the RF frequency filter across the dial. The ringing capacitor (0.9 μF) is shared between the ringer and the RF frequency filter.

The ringer adjustment is the potentiometer on the base in the round metal can. The adjusting knob is on the underside.

After adjusting the image lighting, it does appear to be correct that the ringer connection is not connected as you state.

It is not clear which one is L1 and L2, red or green. So, the solution is to connect a jumper wire between L2 and E, the lead to the potentiometer is likely not moveable and soldered to the other side.  Alternately, reconnect the black line wire (to the middle screw?) and connect the other cord end to the right terminal (red or green) at the wall interface.

When the receiver is taken off-hook, the hookswitch Hs2 connects the phone to the loop on L2 and bridges via Hs1 the dial pulse (D1) contacts with the filter. When dialing, Ds2 shorts the entire phone, as well as the loop and D1 produces the pulses.

[dsk]

  Welcome!
When you have one experts opinion, another will always have another opinion that's life.

The resistor close to terminal E are a voltage sensitive resistor used to eliminate bell tinkle. So to get the ringer in to the circuit, just connect the E terminal to L2. (and that is actually what the they told you earlier here to, but I guess this made outside the USA

On the other hand, I am not sure if it helps your needs. Its just to try. 
1) Modern telephones may use less current for the ringer, that may cause weak or non ringing at your new phone.
2) When you dial 6 to open the door, it may or may not work with a rotary dial, again; try!
if not you need a dialgizmo or other device converting the pulses to tones.

dsk

[unbeldi]

Welcome!
When you have one experts opinion, another will always have another opinion that's life.

The resistor close to terminal E are a voltage sensitive resistor used to eliminate bell tinkle. So to get the ringer in to the circuit, just connect the E terminal to L2. (and that is actually what the they told you earlier here to, but I guess this made outside the USA

On the other hand, I am not sure if it helps your needs. Its just to try. 
1) Modern telephones may use less current for the ringer, that may cause weak or non ringing at your new phone.
2) When you dial 6 to open the door, it may or may not work with a rotary dial, again; try!
if not you need a dialgizmo or other device converting the pulses to tones.

dsk

I think if you study the diagram and look at the pictures, you will revise your post.

[TelePlay]

That resistor is not part of the ringing circuit.

Good catch, you are right. The picture clearly shows "100 Ohm" which would not be the variable resistor shown in the diagram ringing circuit. I wonder if bbcj has tried connecting E to L2 and if that got the phone to ring.

[dsk]

I think if you study the diagram and look at the pictures, you will revise your post.



It may be something I don't see.
The diagram are made pretty like the Siemens diagrams, The 100 ohms resistor are switched in when off hook, and forms a filter across the dial pulsing contacts.
Close to The E you see another resistor, a VCR marked 30 k ohms. This are a way to stop tinkling as an alternative to the the bias spring.  This are most likely OK, but may be shorted out just to test.  And right about connecting E to l2. And again, No I had not seen the floating black wire. If this are the wire connected to E and E and L2 are connected together in the plug then we know why its not ringing. I can not see any markings on the screw terminals.

dsk

[unbeldi]

What you call a VCR is a potentiometer that controls the ringing.  The symbol in the diagram is that of a potentiometer, not of a varistor, and it matches the potentiometer mounted in the base of the unit.  There is no other potentiometer in the circuit either.

The ringer is probably fixed biased and the armature is mounted on a fairly stiff spring blade. This ringer is made in the 1960s at least, and won't cause bell tingle.

[dsk]

OK Thank you.
dsk

[bbcj]

Gosh, hi everyone and thank you for all your responses! Sorry for such a late reply.

I will give it a try and let you know. 

FYI: I've attached another photo of the marking.

Top row left to right: T, R, RT
Bottom row left to right: L1, E, L2

[dsk]

As I see this, I would try this setup: (Picture)
It should even work without the common wire (for testing)

dsk

[bbcj]

Hi everyone!

Success! Thank you for taking the time to help. You guys are the best!

I moved E wire to L2.
It works on the intercom too! 

Have a wonderful week!