WE, or about any Common Batt phone

[trainman]

Normal operation of the 555 is as follows.

To answer a station call, use the RIGHT cord to answer the station. Then the LEFT cord would connect the second station.

To place an outside call, start with the LEFT cord in the trunk jack. Then use the Right cord to connect a station.

The order is important.

For what you are trying to do, right now, id ignore the station jack light.  Use the Right Cord first, the right cord should pick the S relay. Then use the Left cord.

For now, left just try to get two station to talk to each other. Later we can add the station light and maybe try to conn3ct to the outside world.

And we shoukd try to find you the correct jacks, so the operation is the same.

[trainman]

Ok. I dont know where you have battery connected to, but the easiest is to use the plug that is on the cord unit. The contacts should be numbered.

-24v battery (negative) goes to pin 12.
Battery ground (positive) goes to pin 9

Ring voltage goes to 14.
Ground ring voltage.goes.to 13

Pin 11 looks like its ground for your station lights, and possibly some other parts of the circuit. CORRECTION. PIN 11 is the battery supply to the station lamp, and the signalling battery supply to go through the phone to groind, to complete the loop.  If you look at A under the station lamp, look at the battery supply FIG 6 on the schematic. Battery voltage feeds the  NL relay, then goes to A under the station lamp and also goes down wire 11 from the NL relay. You need battery supply also on your station jack loop to go through the off hook phone to light the lamp.

As to your station jacks, unless your jacks have the right number of contacts and working in the right sequence, it wont work right. Station jack battery and ground need to get disconnected when the cord gets plugged in, so battery and ground from the cord unit can take over.

Id just use clip leads to attack tip and ring from the phone to the cord plugs. And another clip lead to ground the cord sleeve. Try grounding it to the cord unit frame.

Ill look and see if i have the correct jacks for the station lines. I might even have sockets.

[RB]

Thank you. that's good info.
i do have the 24 volts going to pins 9 and 12. that's as far as I have been able to trace it.
with this new info, I can finish the power connections.
I have been able to get the T relay to pull when I ground the sleeve of the Left cord, as well as the AS relay. but nothing on the Right.
One thing I noticed, someone has put heat shrink over a contact on the RB relay, I believe. I was lookin at that last night.
I think this has stopped ground from appearing at the CS relay, which is the left coil of that relay, and to the AS relay for that light.
Maybe that's why I can't get the lights to light?
could that be a mod? to make this set act differently that originally intended?
i will remove the shrink, and restore the contacts tonight.
This thing is beginning to take shape.
I would indeed love to have the correct jacks and plugs for this thing. I cannot find anything close in todays market. I am using relays to make the changes.

[trainman]

there are two types of RB relays/ one is just a coil. one is a coil with contacts. the one with contacts is a later version. the armature is permanently locked. they put heat shrink over the contacts to select the different option. by wither isulating the contacts or having them uninsulated, selected certain circuit options. they sis this to make it easier to change the circuit rather than unsoldering wires and moving them. They correspond with option J or K on the schematic. Does yours have a AD relay installed or not?

IF grounding the cord sleeve on the right cord wont pick up the S relay, hav you tried cleaning the contacts on the ringing keys, which are the push buttons on top?

[trainman]

i dont thinkt that jack you are using is going to work. i would just use clip leads for now. you wont be able to simulate the phone going off hook, giving the station light to signal the operator. you will be at the point where the operator plugs in the right cord first, then plugs in the left cord to get the second station. ill see if i have the correct type jacks to send you. i might

harry sent a link to his Google Drive that has 555 documents? did you get it?

refer to CD 66520 AND CD 66520. and that GTE schematic you have is also good. do you have the entire one? it also have a circuit description?

[RB]

there are two types of RB relays/ one is just a coil. one is a coil with contacts. the one with contacts is a later version. the armature is permanently locked. they put heat shrink over the contacts to select the different option. by wither isulating the contacts or having them uninsulated, selected certain circuit options. they sis this to make it easier to change the circuit rather than unsoldering wires and moving them. They correspond with option J or K on the schematic. Does yours have a AD relay installed or not?
Ok, that makes sense. mine has contacts. No, no AD relay on this set.

IF grounding the cord sleeve on the right cord wont pick up the S relay, hav you tried cleaning the contacts on the ringing keys, which are the push buttons on top?

I have worked on them, but will go through again.
The S relay did function at some point, will look closer.
I do have the link, and most of the docs therein.
And I believe I have the circuit descriptions, need to read through them again, as i go .

[trainman]

I would just clip lead ring and tip from the cord plug to the telephone sets ring and tip. Then seperately clip lead the cord sleeve to the cord unit frame. By connecting and disconnecting the cord sleeve ground you can simulate the cord being inserted and removed. Im not sure the jack you are using is making and breaking the connections as needed. If you study the BSP titled 555 Description and look at the simplified station line schematic you will see when the plug is inserted it changes what the connections go to.

[RB]

ok, will give that a go this evening, thanks.

[trainman]

You need a couple of Western Electric 275 type jacks to use for the station line. They have the right set up of contacts to switch correctly.

I looked through half my stash of parts and didnt find any. Ill find the rest and see if i have some.

[HarrySmith]

I will check also, I picked up a few from Steve a while back. Put a key ring in some and sold them on  eBay but I may have a few left.

[RB]

Thanks Trainman and HarrySmith!
made some more progress last night. I added pin 11 to Batt+.
now, when I turn on the power, both lites come on dimly. if i ground the right sleeve, the left lite goes out, and the right lite burns brightly.
and when I pick up the phone connected to the left cord, "no sleeve just t and r" , the right lite goes out.
and if i ground the left sleeve, the lite goes out.
kinda puzzling. it almost seems like the left and right cords are backwards?
i will get there, just need more time with it.
is it possible, to run this cord set with a negative ground? instead of positive ground? I struggle with ground being positive. just goes against everything that seems right. lol.

[trainman]

Are you talking about what would be your ststion lights, or the lights on the cord unit? I say ignore the station lights because i dont thing the jack you are using is switching the circuits in and out correctly. Disconnect pin 11. Im confused about that part of the circuit.


In telephoney,  Ring is -48 and Tip Is Positive 48 ground.

Ignoring the station lights, does using clip leads from the cord init tp the phones make the phones talk to eaxh other?

SO, try this. Clip tip and ring to their respective phones. Pick up phone connected to right cord. Ground cord sleeves. Right light should be out. S relay should pick up. Hang up phone. Right light should be on.  Repeat for left. Light should work same.

By grounding and ungrounding the cord sleeve, you can simulate the plug being inserted and removed.

So, a station picks up. Operator takes RIGHT cord to answer it. Caller specifies what he wants. Operator takes LEFT cord to connect another station or place an outside line call.

I assume you are just trying to make two phones talk to each other?

Whats the J number on the cord unit? Lets make sure you have a cord unit from a 555 and not a 556 or 557. Operation of those is different.

[trainman]

Im going to try to make a mock up over here. I know my cord units opetate correctly. Lets.see if i can make it work.

[trainman]

How are you looking at the cords? Labeling them left and right by looking at it from the front? Sometimes when something is on tbe bench and im looking at it from an angle not seen in normal use, i look at the parts backwards.

[RB]

How are you looking at the cords? Labeling them left and right by looking at it from the front? Sometimes when something is on tbe bench and im looking at it from an angle not seen in normal use, i look at the parts backwards.

Boy, Howdy! do i know thats right!!! I have that same problem. and i have been doin it for over 40 years! lol.
the cord set has a plastic part where the cords connect, "i do not have real cords, i am using a 1/4" stereo plug wired to the right side i believe.
i go by the rt and lt printed on the plastic connect points. and a piece of phone cord with a rj11 plug on the other. grounding comes from clip leads to the sleeve screws on the connect points.
The lights i refer to are on the cord set itself. one under the left cord, and the other under the right cord. i did not wire the station lites.
The pin 11 connection, comes from the - side of a cap in the primary part of the power distribution on the schematic" very top of schematic".
and goes directly to the right lamp. I connect to the big plug on the cord set.
I have been able to make the phones talk to each other, but at a very low volume.
with the t and r connected to each phone, i pick up/hang up right phone, and ground the sleeves, light will not go on/off . but i pick up left phone, and right light goes out like it should. it is acting almost correctly, I think i have a short somewhere i need to find.
And yes, just tryin to make 2 phones talk, no other connections.
I will get the j number tonite, can't remember it right now, not home.
I removed the heat shrink from the contacts of i believe the RB relay, and that's when I started to get the lights to work.
this thing was banged up when i got it, still correcting the damage.lol