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Western Electric Imperial D1/685A wiring

Started by Butch Harlow, August 10, 2017, 08:52:28 PM

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unbeldi

#15
With a 6U dial, the set has to be wired differently than what I showed in my first diagram, because these Design Line dials have contacts to shorted the receiver, rather than open the receiver circuit.

I reworked the diagram for that dial, added all switch terminal designations, also using the colors of the D6AA mounting cord that is used in this set.
This is how I would wire the set with the given components.

I would use the spare R terminal in the D1 to connect the black wires from the handset and from the subset, not tie up the hook switch contact Y, which makes the Y-BK switch unusable. So your craftsman had to use the GN-W hook switch to cut off the line, instead of disconnecting the receiver before the line breaks.  This should cause clicks in the receiver when operating the hook switch, for example to get new dial tone after a call, rather than hanging up the handset physically. But since he did leave a varistor across the LB1 terminals, the clicks might be minimal.

I selected the blue and white wires of the D6AA cord the way I think they are used in your set, though I have not traced the wires in your pictures precisely.  There is something different going on with the yellow wire.  Has he placed the dial pulse switch (DP) before the hook switch ?   I think this would be a mistake, because in that case the spark quenching RC filter between F and RR in the 425B network cannot function.  The dial pulse contacts BL-G must be across F and RR.   No, it seems he used the yellow wire instead of green in my case, going directly to DS2 to short the receiver.  I definitely prefer green going to GN terminals.

The BK-R switch on the dial remains unused, as is the case on your set, because using it would require two more wires in the mounting cord, to shorten C and RR terminals on the network during dialing.  This would be a good choice actually, because it eliminates the entire desk set, including the primary windings of the induction coil during dialing, as is the practice in the old 302 telephones.

Butch Harlow

I truly appreciate all the input and extensive information. I figured I had something outside the norm when I first opened it. It will take me awhile to process all of this because I am not nearly as educated in electrical engineering as you folks. I have apparently joined the right group to feed my telephone collecting bug. I look forward to much more of this.
Butch Harlow

Alex G. Bell

Quote from: Butch Harlow on August 11, 2017, 06:00:14 PM
I truly appreciate all the input and extensive information. I figured I had something outside the norm when I first opened it. It will take me awhile to process all of this because I am not nearly as educated in electrical engineering as you folks. I have apparently joined the right group to feed my telephone collecting bug. I look forward to much more of this.
You have.  Happy to help.  I'm sure the others are too.  That's what CRPF is for.

Butch Harlow

Being somewhat eBay lucky, I came across another Imperial that has all the proper parts I need to restore the one I have to original. Luckily it is just dinged up enough for me to not really care about mining it for parts. It has a 6D dial, proper cloth jacketed 3 conductor curly handset and cloth jacketed 4 conductor straight line cord that appear original. The handset has a big chip in it and was also repainted to an incorrect light almond color, so was the hookswitch plunger. The transmitter element is a T1 with two odd spacers, which I have never seen before, but is dated 1-55 like the rest of the phone's elements. The receiver is a U1 dated 1-10-55. So, I think I got all the correct parts to return my imperial to original, factory spec.

My questions pertain to the wiring, and if what is currently wired would be correct.
The subset cord is wired as follows:
Green to GN on hookswitch
Yellow to Y on hookswitch
Red to R on dial
Black to BK on dial
(which seems kinda obvious to me, haha!)

Handset cord:
Red to R on dial
black to BK on dial
White to W on dial
(also, kinda obvious)

two Jumpers, one appears new:
W on hookswitch to BB on dial
BK on hookswitch to Y on dial

also, the handset cord restraint is stamped H3P and under that II 55, the subset cord restraint is stamped 55 and has a string to tie it down in addition to the hook restraint.
Butch Harlow

poplar1

Quote from: Butch Harlow on December 20, 2017, 07:37:36 PM


My questions pertain to the wiring, and if what is currently wired would be correct.
The subset cord is wired as follows:
Green to GN on hookswitch
Yellow to Y on hookswitch
Red to R on dial
Black to BK on dial
(which seems kinda obvious to me, haha!)

Handset cord:
Red to R on dial
black to BK on dial
White to W on dial
(also, kinda obvious)

two Jumpers, one appears new:
W on hookswitch to BB on dial
BK on hookswitch to Y on dial

also, the handset cord restraint is stamped H3P and under that II 55, the subset cord restraint is stamped 55 and has a string to tie it down in addition to the hook restraint.


That is the correct wiring, using the D4U mounting cord connected to a 684 or 634 subset.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.