Does anyone have Rod Lanthier's coin control module? I saw one of his youtube videos and this module looks to work really well. I like how it is compact and hidden in the phone. I sent him a message and he does not sell them with out buying one of his refurb phones.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klyCwMRoVUc#t=41
I do not have any type of controller and I am not familiar with his, don't know what it looks like or where it fits in or near the phone.
Some forum members have these and one is available right now on eBay for it's usual price. You may get member comments on either/or both.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-Coin-Controller-For-Your-Antique-3-Slot-Payphone-/302101944195
I have made my own: http://tinyurl.com/kpq42ev
This one depends on polarity reversal on answer, and fits my ATA (PAP2T)
On a regular line, a timer would fix that, and that is what I guess has been done on the video.
dsk
I have one of Stan's controllers, which is the one John has just posted. I have it connected to a Northern 233 pre-pay coin collector. I have the telephone connected to a 685 subscriber set, which is how this model of coin collector was originally installed. I have the whole thing mounted on an oak backboard which I made myself. The telephone is at the top, the subset directly below , and the controller unit directly below that. (See picture ). The control unit has been plugged in continually for about 2 years, and continues to function without fail each and every time a coin is dropped into the coin slots. The controller works perfectly. As soon as coin ( 10 cents ) hits the trigger mechanism, I have dial tone. If I hang up, the coin is returned to the coin return bucket.
This part I'm not exactly sure of the time limit, but if the handset is kept off hook for I believe it's 45 seconds or more, once the handset is hung up, the coin(s) 2 nickels or a dime, drop into the coin vault. Installation is pretty straight forward.
I'm very happy with the unit.
Jeff Lamb
Does Rod even sell them any more? I haven't heard anything from him in a long time. He used to have a lot of AE 3-slot phones.
This is the link for his website:
http://threeslotpayphone.com/
Quote from: Phonesrfun on October 14, 2016, 10:21:45 PM
Does Rod even sell them any more? I haven't heard anything from him in a long time. He used to have a lot of AE 3-slot phones.
I sent him an email to him the other day to see what they cost, he said that he only puts them in the phones that he restores.
I don't see why he would pass on a $200+ sale.
Quote from: poplar1 on October 14, 2016, 11:41:05 PM
This is the link for his website:
http://threeslotpayphone.com/
This is a screen capture of his controller from one of Rod's videos. It is an external box similar to the other controller posted above.
His site says the price for the controller is $250 in addition to the pay phone.
I can think of one reason why he may only want to sell them with a payphone - no installation required by the purchaser (no troubleshooting phone calls, no returns, stuff like that). The phone and controller are in working order and working together when they ship.
I have an idea of $200 is pretty much money, so I made my own as described in the thread http://tinyurl.com/kpq42ev
And yes it tuned out to be far less, but it is huge, like a subset. and it could have tuned out to be a fail. Sometimes my projects turns out to be pretty expensive, and I spend much more than it would have been to just buy the unit. My only excuse for this is the pleasure of being able to understand the problem, and solve it, but this is my biggest motivation for my hobbies. If it dont need fetteling, I just opens everything, and examine it to understand how it works. (electronics may be difficult that way, so I prefer old-fashioned solutions)
The motivation driving us may be different, so if you just want it up and running, one of the compact controllers over may be a good choice.
The last thing important thing to say; this is just for prepay phones!
dsk
It seems the original question was misunderstood.
Rod Lantier manufactured TWO types of controllers. The first was a stand alone unit. The second was a module built in the payphones he sold. The one built in the payphone is the one in the video. That's the one Kpkube was inquiring about.
Both of his devices were amateurish at best. They did ANIMATE the coin relay of the payphone. However, they in no way made the payphone they were attached to, or built into, operate the way they did when they were in actual service.
If you look at the video, the instant the payphone is hung up the coin relay fires. Three slot payphone never worked that way. He also 'implies' that deposits will be collected when or if the call is answered or returned if it isn't. That's absolute nonsense. Both of his 'creations' have timers.
If you connect a Western Electric 3-slot to his stand alone unit and want 'coin first' operation you couldn't answer an incoming call without first depositing a coin. The same holds true if his module was installed in a Western 3-slot. Seems he kept that a secret.
Just saying.
Stan S.
Thanks, Stan, for the evaluation.
When I read the first post, my first thought was that he was building something into each phone to do whatever that phone needed. Many different payphones so easier to make one to work for one phone only and as such, could not sell one as an external unit as a one size fits all.
Then I saw the external box so posted that with my comments above.
So, my first suspicion was confirmed and what, he no longer builds the external since he no longer sells only the controller?
Quote from: Stan S on October 15, 2016, 01:17:20 PM
It seems the original question was misunderstood.
Rod Lantier manufactured TWO types of controllers. The first was a stand alone unit. The second was a module built in the payphones he sold. The one built in the payphone is the one in the video. That's the one Kpkube was inquiring about.
Both of his devices were amateurish at best. They did ANIMATE the coin relay of the payphone. However, they in no way made the payphone they were attached to, or built into, operate the way they did when they were in actual service.
If you look at the video, the instant the payphone is hung up the coin relay fires. Three slot payphone never worked that way. He also 'implies' that deposits will be collected when or if the call is answered or returned if it isn't. That's absolute nonsense. Both of his 'creations' have timers.
If you connect a Western Electric 3-slot to his stand alone unit and want 'coin first' operation you couldn't answer an incoming call without first depositing a coin. The same holds true if his module was installed in a Western 3-slot. Seems he kept that a secret.
Just saying.
Stan S.
Hi Stan,
Thanks for the information. Looks like I will End up getting the controller you have.
First I need to get the phone set up so I can use your controller with it. I found the coin chute and coil, now I need to find some info on how to connect it back up and see if I'm missing anything else. Right now it is set up to make and receive calls but I would like it to be able to put the coins in and function like it did. Will try to post pics of the inside with the coin chute and coil.
Thanks
Keith
Keith
Assuming your coin relay is OK, you should have no trouble getting the payphone to work.
Stan S.
Need to find out to wire it up.
Keith
What model payphone is it and do you have a diagram?
Stan S.
Don't know the model, no plate on top. Here are some pictures if that helps. No diagrams
On the coin mech the coil and the microswitch need to have wires reattached to them.
The coin chute relay needs to have the wires reattached as well. I found a white wire that is connected to the d-connector need to know where that goes,
The text on the instruction card indicates a semi-postpay, if that is right, the controller described will not be the right.
I should wish I could see a little bit more to the right from the last picture.
dsk
Here is a picture when I got the phone(ebay purchase from celnout)
found this from an ebay auction. Looks to be the same phone.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Automatic-Electric-3-Slot-Coin-Payphone-Model-LPC-82-55-/300857890487
?nma=true&si=kE4ig4%252FjaKxK%252BNhi79voxN%252Ff0yk%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
The coin control mechanism is different, yours are a semi-postpay, the other one is a prepay.
Yours will only return coins not accepted by the coin acceptor. I have a similar one. Yours are missing the coin relay, but has a ringer there. You may change the mechanim to pretpay, you may put in the original, or you may put in a micro-switch, and a few other small components and make it work as semi-postpay, and still have the ringer.
dsk
What kind of line do you want to use the phone at? POTS? PBX? Selfowned and unloced ATA, or locked ATA?
dsk
Quote from: dsk on October 16, 2016, 03:10:24 AM
What kind of line do you want to use the phone at? POTS? PBX? Selfowned and unloced ATA, or locked ATA?
dsk
POTS.
Before
[i mg]h ttp://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16931.0;attach=148776[/i mg]
After
Yes! That make sense, now you may wire it up for a controller. Do you know the voltage the coil is made for?
Mine is working well at approx 100V dc.
dsk
Quote from: dsk on October 16, 2016, 12:39:12 PM
Yes! That make sense, now you may wire it up for a controller. Do you know the voltage the coil is made for?
Mine is working well at approx 100V dc.
dsk
I believe it is a 48v
OH BOY!
Well, I suppose everyone is sufficiently confused. I know I am.
Kpkube, let me TRY and explain what you have.
Your payphone is an Automatic Electric LPC 86-55. It's was a cent POSTPAY phone.
You posted 2 pictures. One has a PREPAY hopper and single coil coin relay.
The second has a straight chute. The straight chute WOULD have been used originally in your payphone when it was in service.
Apparently you never got a matching POSTPAY coin relay for the chute.
The way the phone is set up now the chute is only used to direct the coins into the cash box.
Now, getting back to the PREPAY hopper and single coil coin relay.
The hopper is correct for an AE PREPAY 3-slot. The coin relay isn't.
That coin relay is from a single slot payphone. You can tell by the 'T' shaped coin trigger.
The relay only has 2 terminals. All AEs, PREPAY or POSTPAY need a set of switching contacts that will prevent the called party from hearing the calling party.
So, the relay would need a minimum of 4 terminals. Two for the coil of the relay and two to prevent transmission.
Another problem with those relays is the 'T' shaped coin trigger. It isn't long enough to prevent a dime from 'squeaking' by and not hitting the trigger. They were designed for single slot hoppers not 3 slots. 3-slot hoppers are wider.
It's not a big deal changing the coin relay. The wiring to the proper relay is easy. You can leave the rest of the POSTPAY wiring the way it is assuming the payphone works as a standard extension phone.
The major amount of work will be in the top of the phone. All the wiring that made it any type of payphone has been removed.
That includes the coin microphones and the 'nickel counting assembly'.
Since the 'nickel counting assembly' was for a a POSTPAY phone it's different than one that would be used in a PREPAY.
Probably can be made to work as a ten cent phone with a little bit of redesign.
If you don't want to hear the coins hitting the bell and gong in the handset, and you're happy with it being a nickel initial deposit, you can leave it the way it is. It will work fine with the controller I build after you change the coin relay.
To make it 100% correct would requires a lot of work.
Stan S.
Correction
It's was a cent POSTPAY phone.
Should be:
IT WAS A 10 CENT POSTPAY PHONE.
Sorry about that!
Old eyes.
Stan S.
Quote from: Stan S on October 16, 2016, 01:12:38 PM
OH BOY!
Well, I suppose everyone is sufficiently confused. I know I am.
Kpkube, let me TRY and explain what you have.
Your payphone is an Automatic Electric LPC 86-55. It's was a cent POSTPAY phone.
You posted 2 pictures. One has a PREPAY hopper and single coil coin relay.
The second has a straight chute. The straight chute WOULD have been used originally in your payphone when it was in service.
Apparently you never got a matching POSTPAY coin relay for the chute.
The way the phone is set up now the chute is only used to direct the coins into the cash box.
Now, getting back to the PREPAY hopper and single coil coin relay.
The hopper is correct for an AE PREPAY 3-slot. The coin relay isn't.
That coin relay is from a single slot payphone. You can tell by the 'T' shaped coin trigger.
The relay only has 2 terminals. All AEs, PREPAY or POSTPAY need a set of switching contacts that will prevent the called party from hearing the calling party.
So, the relay would need a minimum of 4 terminals. Two for the coil of the relay and two to prevent transmission.
Another problem with those relays is the 'T' shaped coin trigger. It isn't long enough to prevent a dime from 'squeaking' by and not hitting the trigger. They were designed for single slot hoppers not 3 slots. 3-slot hoppers are wider.
It's not a big deal changing the coin relay. The wiring to the proper relay is easy. You can leave the rest of the POSTPAY wiring the way it is assuming the payphone works as a standard extension phone.
The major amount of work will be in the top of the phone. All the wiring that made it any type of payphone has been removed.
That includes the coin microphones and the 'nickel counting assembly'.
Since the 'nickel counting assembly' was for a a POSTPAY phone it's different than one that would be used in a PREPAY.
Probably can be made to work as a ten cent phone with a little bit of redesign.
If you don't want to hear the coins hitting the bell and gong in the handset, and you're happy with it being a nickel initial deposit, you can leave it the way it is. It will work fine with the controller I build after you change the coin relay.
To make it 100% correct would requires a lot of work.
Stan S.
Thanks Stan
Where can I find the correct relay for this?
Other than replacing the wires that were clipped from the chute micro switch, coin signal transmitter and the restoring relay. I could reconnect those. I now have the schematic for the LPC82-55, I can go over this to see what might have been changed.
I think I got the right relay. I also think I have everything connected according to the schematic. Will include some shots of how it is now. I get dial-tone and can dial out, I can transmit & receive, all without putting in any coins in. Shouldn't something be disabled? Newb at this so be bare with me.
Are there any points to check for the correct voltages? Any help would be great.
Would like to end up with this phone being able to use stans controller.
Thanks for your help.
Keith
From what I see from your pictures everything looks fine.
With the wire spring of the nickel counter in the NOTCH of the arm the dial should be disabled. If you deposit ONE nickel and the wire spring jumps out of the notch and flips up, you should be able to dial. Assuming the coin relay you found is working properly, all this will be done automatically by the operation of the controller.
Stan S.
Keith
I forgot to tell you. Do the above test with the top and bottom of the payphone separated and the coin trigger in the hopper in the down position.
Stan S.
Hi Stan,
I think the relay I got was modified. It was missing the resistor and I think it had some of the contacts cut. I'm looking to see if I can get another.
Keith
Rod Lanthier?
Just a guess.
Quote from: Stan S on October 27, 2016, 11:18:38 PM
Keith
Rod Lanthier?
Just a guess.
The mod on the relay?
I got the relay from oldphoneworks.com. I have sent him an email to see if he has an unmodified relay. I replaced the resistor with one from another relay that was the wrong one. After I replaced it I didn't realize that there were contacts that were cut.
I did the test with the nickel and the microswitch and it did work. Could not dial with the switch in the first position, when nickel dropped I was able to dial.
How do I know if the relay would work. Are there places that I could check voltages?
The internal controller you have. How much are they? How hard are they to install.
Does it need an external power source?
Thanks
Keith
Keith
I don't sell the internal controller modules.
Forget about using that relay. To work with the external controller the coin relay must be original and unmodified.
Stan S.
Quote from: Stan S on October 27, 2016, 11:46:17 PM
Keith
I don't sell the internal controller modules.
Forget about using that relay. To work with the external controller the coin relay must be original and unmodified.
Stan S.
Hi Stan,
Got a different relay. Are there any tests to make sure it will work? I tried the 9v test on the reset solenoid, and that works.
Do you only offer the external controller on eBay? Do you have other pricing for forum members?
Thanks
Keith
Keith
The external controller is the only one I sell separately. If someone wants the built in controller they have to buy a complete payphone. See: http://tinyurl.com/zg47eq6 (http://tinyurl.com/zg47eq6). The internal controller isn't something you just stick in the payphone. The entire phone is built around the coin control module and the incoming answer board.
I'm assuming you have an ohmmeter. With it connected between terminals #3 and #4 and with the coin trigger in the UP position you should get an open circuit. With the coin trigger in the DOWN position you should see about 1000 ohms (coil resistance). Some coin relays are stamped 'G' instead of '4'.
Between terminals #1 and #2 with the coin trigger in the UP position you should see a short circuit. With the coin trigger in the DOWN position you should see an open circuit. Terminals #1 and #2 are wired in parallel with the microswitch contracts of the nickel counter. Different combinations of those two sets of contacts disable the pulsing contacts of the dial.
If you have a DC power supply that produces between 45 and 100 VDC you can check the polarity of the coin relay. High voltage between terminals #3 and #4 with the coin trigger DOWN the relay will flip left or right. Reverse the polarity and the coin relay will flip the other way. Each time high voltage is applied the coin trigger will flip UP and the relay will reset. That's assuming the magnetic card and the plastic cam aren't worn out.
Stan S.
Hi Stan,
Tested the relay with 45 volts. It works in both directions. Is there anything else I need to test?
Thanks
Keith
Keith
Nope.
Sounds like everything is 100%. The phone should work perfectly with a controller.
Stan S.