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AE 80 inspection.

Started by Greg G., April 27, 2010, 04:27:49 AM

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Greg G.

This is it for tonight and the last one with it's own line cord.  This one was easy, even came with it's own fancy-shmancy plug in.

The body is in good shape, no breaks, cracks, or gouges.  The dial bezel has a dull finish in comparison with the cover and handset.  Underside looks good, no rust.

The dial rotates and returns fine.  Plugged it in, got a dial tone, but it won't break the tone when I dial.  Hmmm, ok, I think that's just moving a wire or something.  Tried calling it, didn't ring, but I was able to receive the call when I picked up the handset.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

jsowers

Can anyone tell me what that little screwdriver slot adjustment--0-1-2-3-4--does on the bottom? There was one on our AE80 like this one when I was growing up and I could never tell any difference turning it. It was always set on 1. I always wondered if I turned it, that someone from the phone company would come out and slap my hands.  ;)  They never did. We were also across the road from some kind of neighborhood junction box. Phone trucks and vans were pulling up to that box constantly. It's since been eliminated, and I think it was when the party lines went away.

Also like the one we had years ago, this one looks to have a frequency ringer since there is no adjustment wheel for the volume sticking out the bottom. That may be why it won't ring.
Jonathan

Phonesrfun

The early AE80's did not have automatic loop equalizers built in.  The installer had to set it initially based on loop current.  These frequently got out of adjustment because subscribers fiddled with them.


The adjustment does not make much difference at the receiving end, but can make a difference to the volume at the far end, based on loop length.



-Bill G

Greg G.

Quote from: stub1953 on April 27, 2010, 02:03:46 PM
Brinybay,
              Most of the time all you need to do is move #9 to #8 and discard the yellow wire to make it ring , if it's not a frequency ringer.
              Need pic of the backside of dial and pic of the network to find out why it won't break dial tone.    stub

Definitely has a frequency ringer, but I have a couple of NOS AE ringers I can put in it, that is, if I decide to keep it.  The markings on the back of the dial say EB-8, you can't see the 8 because of the shadow.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

stub

Brinybay ,
               Trace out the wire on this diagram and when you put in a new ringer it should work.        stub

                                         http://tinyurl.com/2cmb2pm
Kenneth Stubblefield

Phonesrfun

Regarding breaking dial tone:  I am wondering by looking at the dial if when the finger wheel is taken off normal, does it allow the pulsing contacts to come close enough to the butterfly part that opens and closes the pulse contacts during the dial run-down?

-Bill G

Greg G.

Quote from: Phonesrfun on April 27, 2010, 09:46:46 PM
Regarding breaking dial tone:  I am wondering by looking at the dial if when the finger wheel is taken off normal, does it allow the pulsing contacts to come close enough to the butterfly part that opens and closes the pulse contacts during the dial run-down?

A vid is worth a thousand dial rotations:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pjvrbyb6vM
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Phonesrfun

OK, that part seems to be working as it should.   :)

-Bill G

stub

#8
Phonesrfun,
                  Bill, If the rheostat's blue wire was disconnected would it keep it from dialing out? Something doesn't look right about the wiring in this picture. Pic AE80   006     Here's diagram            What do you think?            stub

http://tinyurl.com/2cmb2pm
                                                                                                       


Kenneth Stubblefield

Phonesrfun

I'll study the AE80 06 picture and compare it to my phone with the same network.  If the blue rheostat wire were disconnected, that appears to be the only connection to L2, and therefore the whole phone would be dead.  But, I will take a look and see what I can see.

-Bill G

stub

#10
Brinybay,
             You have to replace ringer anyway , remove the wires from ringer and see if it will dial out . The green from ringer and the white from capacitor seem to be out of place.   Greg, it looks like the previous owner did some wiring for you and forget the  #9 to #8 move .It won't apply to this phone!!!!             stub

Bill-  I just couldn' tell if it was hooked up from pic .  Thanks
Kenneth Stubblefield

Phonesrfun

Stub and Briny:

AE's are not my forte when it comes to instinctively knowing what wires hook where.  On mine the blue from the pot (rheostat) is connected to L2, as it is in the schematic.  Like Greg's photo, you have to move wires out of the way to see where the blue wire is connected on the network.

I do see that several of the wires from Greg's phone are connected differently than on mine.  Mine is also an early AE80 with a black potted network and the manual compensation rheostat and a frequency ringer.

Stub, your suggestion to take the ringer out of the circuit is an excellent suggestion.  If that does not work, maybe it is just as well to unhook everything and hook it up according to the diagram from scratch.  Greg has said that he is not an expert at schematics, so he may need instructions on where to hook each wire in tabular form.  By the way, Greg, I don't mean that unkindly.  Many collectors get lost in the schematics very easily.
-Bill G

Greg G.

Quote from: Phonesrfun on April 28, 2010, 01:02:38 AM
Stub and Briny:

AE's are not my forte when it comes to instinctively knowing what wires hook where.  On mine the blue from the pot (rheostat) is connected to L2, as it is in the schematic.  Like Greg's photo, you have to move wires out of the way to see where the blue wire is connected on the network.

I do see that several of the wires from Greg's phone are connected differently than on mine.  Mine is also an early AE80 with a black potted network and the manual compensation rheostat and a frequency ringer.

Stub, your suggestion to take the ringer out of the circuit is an excellent suggestion.  If that does not work, maybe it is just as well to unhook everything and hook it up according to the diagram from scratch.  Greg has said that he is not an expert at schematics, so he may need instructions on where to hook each wire in tabular form.  By the way, Greg, I don't mean that unkindly.  Many collectors get lost in the schematics very easily.

Bill - No offense taken at all.  I'm the first to admit schematics may as well be Chinese, I know nothing of electronics, and your instructions have always been very clear.  I'll try taking the ringer out.  The only confusion I'm having now is jumping from the 40 to the 50 to the 80 threads.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

stub

#13
Brinybay-   Me toooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I think I lost a post in here somewhere?????????
                  I like Bill's instructions also!!!!!  stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

Phonesrfun

Here are the re-wire instructions:

Handset:
Red = 5 (T)
Yellow = 4 (R)
Green = 3 (C)

Dial:
White = 3 (C)
Blue = 1
Red = 4 (R)
Yellow = 11

Rheostat:
Yellow = 2
Blue = 8 (L2)
Violet = 14

Hookswitch:
Orange = 6
White = 16
Black = 15
Yellow = 11
Green = 13

Line Cord:
Red = 10 (L1)
Yellow = 9 (G)
Green = 8 (L2)

Ringer:
Red = 7
Green = 6

Ringer Capacitor:
White = 16
Black = 15

That should work.  If you substitute a straight-line ringer for the frequency ringer, just hook that ringer and its associated capacitor up the same as above.
-Bill G