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Compact AE32 Subset wiring for Automatic Electric 1A Telephone

Started by handworn, May 20, 2012, 09:45:02 PM

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handworn

I'm not sure how to unscrew the nut; it's flush with the plastic.  There are what look like two square openings which could perhaps be used to unscrew it with needlenose pliers, but I'm not sure.

Glad we seem to think your subset would work with my phone.  Thanks!


Quote from: AE_collector on June 26, 2012, 09:31:50 PM
Have you taken the plate off of the top of the cradle to take a look at the hookswitch contacts? Carefully unscrew the large diameter nut around the plunger so you can lift the cover plate off. If you can post a close up picture of the contacts that would be great!

Stub: Sounds like a 5 contact hookswitch??

Terry

AE_Collector

You need a "Monophone Tool"! Without that, as you say needlenose pliers will work but very careully so you don't scratch anything up. You probably don't need to worry about it now though if it is too difficult to sort out.

Terry

AE_Collector

Hi Matt:

Wondering how the 32 subset I sent you is getting along with your AE 1A set? Do you have them hooked up and working?

Terry

handworn

Okay.  AE_Collector's ringer box arrived in good order, and after some consultation I sat down with temporary wiring to hook everything up and see if it worked.

It didn't.  Busy signal.  Hmm.  I examined the diagram (the one some kind soul posted earlier in this discussion) closely, tracing where each wire went and was supposed to go according to the diagram.  It appears to me as though the phone itself was rewired according to some odd logic I couldn't follow.

Here are photos:




#1 in the phone is supposed to have two wires, one that goes to the switch (it does) and one to the ringer box (which I added).  Someone connected to it a wire that goes to the handset.

#2 in the phone is OK-- it has one to the switch as it's supposed to and one I added to the ringer box.

#3 in the phone is supposed to have two wires, to the switch and to the ringer box, but someone removed the screw entirely.  I supplied a screw and attached the new one to the ringer box, but the switch one is not there currently.

#4 in the phone should and does have one to the dial and one I added to the ringer box, but it should not have one to the switch.  Yet it does.

#5 in the phone has nothing connected but the cloth outer wrapping of the cord to the handset, I suppose to take the tension off those wires and make them last longer.  The diagram shows no connections that go there.

#6 in the phone is as it should be, with a wire to the handset and one to the dial.

#7 in the phone has only a wire to the switch; it should have wires to the dial and handset, too.  Oddly enough, the connection at the dial that #7 should connect to is taken up by a wire directly from there to the handset.

#8 in the phone has a wire to the dial as it should, and one to the handset too, but should also have one to the switch and doesn't have it.

So I could change the extra switch wire on #4 to #3 (or #8) and change the extra handset wire from #1 to #7, but that leaves the missing dial wire and missing switch wire, and the extra, mysterious wire from the dial to the switch.  There are supposed to be 5 wires coming from the switch, but there are only four, so supplying one would return it to original configuration, but what exactly was someone trying to accomplish with this rejiggering?  Any ideas?

Also-- is my connection of L1 and L2, from the ringer box to the wall plug, OK?  As I said, I saw on another discussion here that someone said the ground was not necessary, but I'm unsure of myself.

Also-- AE_Collector said I should use a Monophone Tool to unscrew the switch assembly.  Where can I get one?

Thanks a million!

Matt

AE_Collector

Hi Matt:

I will have to study this for awhile (and hope that Stub sorts it all out before I have to) but a couple of quick comments.

Monophone Tools are very difficult to find. The Monophone tools would remove the cover plate from the switch hook so we can see how many contacts are in there. Just carefully use a pair of needle nose pliers to turn the nut around the plunger button and remove the cover plate.

Ground is not required. Worst case is that a wire has to be moved in the subset to make it ring on a private line without the ground. Ground isn't needed for anything else.

Terry

stub

 Matt,
        Try breaking this up into two projects. 1st , disconnect the phone from the subset. Now on the subset ,take a jumper wire and put it on the grd side of connector base and hook it to the L 1 next to it. Hook up line in wires to L1 and L2 and dial your number from cell. Don't touch either line in or ringer wires while ringing ,it will BITE, AC voltage!! Did it ring ? That just bridged the ringer and it should work. The diagram wants you to go back thru the hookswitch, maybe later if we have to.
        Here is the monophone tool.   I used the needlenose pliers for years, very carefully!!stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

AE_Collector

I think that I hooked the subset to L1 & L2 and it rang VERY WELL before I mailed it off. That was all I did though. Need to go back a page or two in this thread to re-read 4 and 5 wires from switch hook though.

Terry

stub

These phones were wired a lot of different ways depending on the type of subset and the number of hookswitch wires or contacts.  Need to identify the hookswitch wires and location. If the phone were mine , I would start all over after I traced out the hookswitch wires and see if they were connected right. Yeph, one wire at a time.
       My AE 1A is wired for 4 hookswitch wires and won't be any use here.
       The note on the diagram for individual ringing has you to move the green ringer wire to #10 on the induction coil and that removes the ring capacitor labled B and grd from the circuit completely. Hence the reason for the two types one with 1 cap.( Individual ring) and with two capacitors (Party 2 and Party 1 ringing).  Sorry I couldn't be of more help.  stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

stub

Here's the 5 contact hookswitch and wire connection in the phone base. The color code is off on the last three of these wires but they are in order as per diagram. Hope this helps.   stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

handworn

Hi Stub,

I thought I had the line in wires to L1 and L2 already (the green and red ones in the photo-- does it matter which goes to which?).  And I wasn't quite sure what you meant by "take a jumper wire and put it on the grd side of connector base and hook it to the L 1 next to it," so I did my best-- is this photo what you meant?

Thanks,

Matt


handworn

Hmm.  Well, I got the subset ringing okay.  And after taking apart the switch and inspecting which wires were going to which connection numbers, I rewired the telephone as per the diagram.  I also opened up the handset and saw which wires were going where.  The only thing I did with that was to take the handset wire that was, strangely, connected to #1 and connect it to #7 as it should have been, 'cause the others were correctly going to #6 and #8.

And it's closer to working, at least.  When I call myself, the ringer box rings (I took that bridging wire off, of course) and removing the phone from the cradle, triggering the switch, does cut off the ringing.  But there's no connection at the handset, and no dial tone after pushing the switch down and letting it back up again.  I tried dialing, and could hear the dial tone just for a second while dialing, and could hear a clicking in the earpiece when dialing according to the length of the dial's rotation.  But at the end of the dialed number, nothing.  So now I'm mystified and am not sure what else to try.

The handset seems to be working properly, since I'm hearing anything at all, and it looks like it's correctly wired per the diagram.  Here's a photo of the inside of the sending end.


LarryInMichigan

Have you verified that the shunting contacts on the dial are open when the dial is in the rest position?  It sounds like the receiver might be shunted when it should not be.

Larry

stub

Handworn,        
                You are missing the terminal link on your dial. You can use a small piece of wire inplace of it , shown in pic. This will help . We can go back to the ringer later if needed. stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

LarryInMichigan

Stub, that's a good catch.  I thought that something looked amiss about the dial, but I couldn't see it well enough to notice that the bridge part was missing.  The lack of that part would not explain the symptoms described though.

Larry

stub

Larry and Terry,
               I saw the missing part on the dial but I missed where Handworn said it was 4 instead of 5 hookswitch wires.
Handworn,
              I went back and reread your reply on the number of hookswitch wires 4 not 5 right ? Which hookswitch do you have   A - 001 or  B - 003  ?
              Check your PM. stub
Kenneth Stubblefield