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Wiring Western Electric 2AA Dial into a Western Electric 20AL Candlestick

Started by gands-antiques, December 06, 2013, 08:55:05 PM

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TelePlay

Quote from: poplar1 on December 07, 2013, 08:22:01 PM
It won't work properly without a subset.

There are a lot of discussions on this forum about building "cheater" subsets for phones that normally work with an external subset. I bought a 202 some time ago and this is what I found inside, a resistor/capacitor "cheater" subset that allowed the phone to be plugged directly into the wall (without having a ringer attached to it).

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=6134.msg72756#msg72756

and then there is this topic showing the "cheater" in an adaptor block.

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=2849.msg39770#msg39770

I'm sure others who are more familiar with wiring sticks with dials can help you out including how to find and hook up one of several types of real subsets if you need a ringer.

unbeldi

Quote from: TelePlay on December 07, 2013, 09:02:10 PM
Quote from: poplar1 on December 07, 2013, 08:22:01 PM
It won't work properly without a subset.

There are a lot of discussions on this forum about building "cheater" subsets for phones that normally work with an external subset. I bought a 202 some time ago and this is what I found inside, a resistor/capacitor "cheater" subset that allowed the phone to be plugged directly into the wall (without having a ringer attached to it).

Well, I don't know if you noticed, but Poplar1 said it won't work *properly*, and that is undeniably the truth.

TelePlay

Quote from: unbeldi on December 08, 2013, 08:57:19 PM
Quote from: TelePlay on December 07, 2013, 09:02:10 PM
Quote from: poplar1 on December 07, 2013, 08:22:01 PM
It won't work properly without a subset.

There are a lot of discussions on this forum about building "cheater" subsets for phones that normally work with an external subset. I bought a 202 some time ago and this is what I found inside, a resistor/capacitor "cheater" subset that allowed the phone to be plugged directly into the wall (without having a ringer attached to it).

Well, I don't know if you noticed, but Poplar1 said it won't work *properly*, and that is undeniably the truth.

That is true, cheaters are never proper usage.

poplar1

What I mean is that a HOT WIRED candlestick or 202---or a 302 with the induction coil and condenser removed--will not work properly. You risk acoustic shock to your ear and damage to the receiver among other things. I'm sure there are acceptable cheater subsets or homemade subsets using off-the-shelf parts. Maybe I'm just lazy but I like using a WE subset with a WE 202 or candlestick--on a POTS line and/or Panasonic 616 hybrid key system.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

poplar1

Quote from: gands-antiques on December 07, 2013, 08:15:55 PM
The picture with the 4H dial wired was how it was wired when I got it.  It isn't wired like that now. I wired it like you said but without the red wire connected I don't see how it will work.

I'm trying to connect it directly to the line (no subset).


The way both 2A and 4H dials are constructed, there is continuity between BB and W except when the dial is operating. These contacts are normally used to open the receiver so you don't hear the clicks, but without a subset, this would disconnect the line completely every time you tried to dial.

That said, the way it is pictured, the red wire (from the wall?) on W is connected through the dial to the 2nd shortest wire (double-blue) on BB except during dialing. So, if you connect the red wire to W on the 2A dial, that part would be the same. The "extra" wire then would be not the red wire, but the shortest harness wire now on R of the 4H dial.

Surely there is someone here that can help Gary hot wire his phone. Doug?
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.