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Found - WANTED: Automatic Electric Ringer Box wiring

Started by Jf510, February 16, 2017, 11:09:16 AM

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Jf510

I bought this ringer box last year and now checking it out and I can't find a wiring diagram for it on line. The capacitor says Automatic Electric so I assume that's what it is. My only experiences is with Western Electric so I know nothing about this one. I want to wire a Western Electric 202 to it. Any help would be appreciated.

unbeldi

Does the unit have any identifying markings on it ?  Part numbers on induction coil ?  Vermillion stamps on base ?

Does the condenser canister (the silver metal can) contain two capacitances or just one, and what are the values stamped on it ?

A WECo 202 requires an anti-sidetone subset (AST), such as a 634A, or a 684A.
We have to determine that this subset is in fact an AST subset.


poplar1

Quote from: unbeldi on February 16, 2017, 12:07:42 PM
A WECo 202 requires an anti-sidetone subset (AST), such as a 634A, or a 684A.
We have to determine that this subset is in fact an AST subset.

A 202 requires an AST subset in order to be used in an AST circuit. However, a 202, 201, 211, 151AL, or other AST telephone may be used with a sidetone subset, by simply taping and storing the black conductor in the mounting cord.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Jf510

Here's a few pictures that I hope will help. Sorry for the pictures ending up upside down.

unbeldi

#4
Ok, the part numbers that I see agree with this being the desk set box for a type 1A or type 21 instrument with an anti-sidetone circuit.
The circuit of these is actually quite different than a WECo AST circuit.
IIRC, we analyzed wiring compatibility to make a 202-equivalent telephone with a D1 before somewhere on this forum, but I may mis-remember.
Frankly, I would not mix manufacturers like this. I have to review the circuits to see what needs to be changed in the desk set.

Here is what I think the circuit of this subset was when used with a 1A Monophone.
I highlighted the subset portion of the wiring schematic with a blue broken-line box.
I think you should verify the wiring of your box against this diagram, but to make it work with a D1 will require changes in both the subset and the desk set.


Jf510

Thanks for the diagram. I will compare it to my ringer box also since you state it's not a good idea to mix manufactures I will not do that.

unbeldi

By chance, I ran across this discussion that addresses the identical subject matter of connecting a 202 to an AE AST subset:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=15752.0

I posted there a diagram of that subset, and I believe that diagram is directly applicable to your AE subset here:



This just for your reference, because I think your decision to use a WECo subset is the correct one in the end. That way your set operates exactly as intended with the best performance characteristics as possible given the age of the components.

unbeldi

Out of curiosity, is there any chance you could confirm the resistances of the three windings of the induction coil by measuring them with a multimeter ?

Jf510

Thanks for that information and wiring diagram as for measuring the induction coil I am a beginner using a multimeter. If you could be more specific as to what points I need to measure I would be happy to.

unbeldi

Quote from: Jf510 on February 19, 2017, 01:09:21 PM
Thanks for that information and wiring diagram as for measuring the induction coil I am a beginner using a multimeter. If you could be more specific as to what points I need to measure I would be happy to.

The induction coil has its terminals marked on the ends.
On one end you have 1 5 3  and on the other  4 6 2, each digit is next to a terminal.

So, set your meter to an ohm scale that covers the range 0 to 300 ohms, and connect your meter to
1 and 2,  then
3 and 4, and finally
5 and 6

I think you should expect ca 20 ohms between 1 and 2,  again ca. 20 ohms between 3 and 4, and ca. 200 ohm between 5 and 6.

Practicing the use of the ohm function of a multimeter is good, because it helps in tracing wires and detecting broken wires and poor connection/solder points on old phones.




Jf510

Thanks for that instructions on the multimeter. I measured 1-2 and it was about 24, 3-4 was 20 and 5-6 barely moved the needle. That last reading doesn't sound good.

unbeldi

Quote from: Jf510 on February 19, 2017, 03:43:17 PM
Thanks for that instructions on the multimeter. I measured 1-2 and it was about 24, 3-4 was 20 and 5-6 barely moved the needle. That last reading doesn't sound good.

Great. Well, it sounds like you need to switch the meter to a larger scale for the last measurement since you are using an analog meter.
On a larger scale you will get a better reading as more current is applied for the measurement.

Jf510

The readings of 1-2 and 3-4 I had the meter at RX1. I moved it as you advised to RX 10 and 5-6 was at about 24. I don't have a clue to what all that means. Does the readings look ok?

unbeldi

Quote from: Jf510 on February 19, 2017, 05:33:36 PM
The readings of 1-2 and 3-4 I had the meter at RX1. I moved it as you advised to RX 10 and 5-6 was at about 24. I don't have a clue to what all that means. Does the readings look ok?

Yeah that looks approximately right, perhaps a little bit high on all.

On the Rx10 setting, you have to multiply the value on the scale by 10, so it is 240 ohms.

I should have mentioned, that with analog meter you have to make sure that the unit zeroed correctly before measurement by shorting the leads directly, and adjusting a wheel or knob on the meter so that it shows zero exactly.



Thanks for the test.

Jf510