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Frustrations trying to use stranded wire with Type 66 blocks

Started by Babybearjs, April 17, 2019, 11:03:21 PM

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Babybearjs

   >:( So, went to use the phone... and no dial tone... UHG! now what's wrong! discovered that my 10 line fuse block had a double punch on it... just insulation, but enough to throw the system off. since I am planning on remodeling the whole system... I went ahead and bypassed the block and removed it... it will be reintroduced to the system later... discovered it was the RJ45 cord I had punched down on it.. Has anyone had any problem with 66 Blocks and stranded wire? because I've had some issues with it and its frustrating!
John

CanadianGuy

I don't think stranded wire was ever acceptable for use on 66 blocks for this reason. If I ever have to connect stranded wire to anything with IDC, I splice it to a short piece of solid core.

Babybearjs

Its so frustrating... I wanted the system modularized so I could unplug the entire system from the Telco lines and used a RJ45 cord to do it with... so when I remodel, I'm going to have to reroute the line wires through the floor instead of the current setup... just another step in the research I'm doing to prepare for this project! so now, the line is going to come directly from my NID to the Fuse block and I'll have to use the block as a disconnect...
John

SUnset2

You can buy RJ-11 and RJ-45 plugs for use with solid wire.  So you can make up patch cords to go to your 66 block.
A web search will turn up multiple sources.

RB

Stay away from stranded wire when using punch blocks.
Did you cut a patch cable in half? is that where you got the stranded wire?
Just use regular solid core wire for all your internal wiring. "including home made patches".
It is much easier to work with. and unless disturbed, will stay in place.

Key2871

Oh yea, stranded wire and punch blocks don't mix.
Because the clips on the block were not designed for stranded wire, only sold wire.
But by now you know that ...
If you want a block to use RJ connectors, buy one set up for that. I may have one set up for RJ45, I'll have to look and see if I still have it.

But what I did to make a modular system I put AMP connectors in my system and conectorized cables.

I don't understand why you want double protection. If your wires are already coming from an NID,  you don't need one in the house.
What would work for up to five lines is an adapted extension Jack, you know the type with a pigtail and five Jacks built in. You open it up and using a sharp knife cut traces on the printed circuit board with the jacks. Then put a cable into it, make sure it's solid. Punch those down, and use the jacks for your patch cables..
KEN

CanadianGuy

Maybe you could use an RJ31X alarm coupler to disconnect your system as needed? They allow dialtone to pass through when disconnected from the "alarm".

RB

Quote from: Key2871 on April 18, 2019, 09:25:44 AM
and what would work for up to five lines is an adapted extension Jack. You know the type with a pigtail and five Jacks built in. You open it up and using a sharp knife cut traces on the printed circuit board with the jacks. Then put a cable into it, make sure it's solid. Punch those down, and use the jacks for your patch cables..
Great idea! awesome mod for small/tite installations. :)

Key2871

If you have a dremmel tool it's faster and safer.
You can use cat five for the wire. That's what I did at one point, just for testing, and for different stations with my SX 5.
Oh, at the ends use a #1, flat blade screw driver to pry open the shell.
KEN

Babybearjs

currently, this is my setup. on my 1A1 system I use 10 position terminal strips to make my connections. I've got a RJ-12 cord feeing the lines... and as you can see, its plugged into my RJ45 jack temporarily. this is all going to change... when I re-feed the phone lines from the NID, they will be terminated on the Fuse block and then hard wired in to the terminal blocks. trying to plan out how I'm going to lay out the 66 blocks, fuse block and the 1A1 matrix block is my big challenge...  found the page in the KSSM that shows the proper lay out of the blocks and wiring... and the measurements too... the bottom of the Blocks are 12" off the floor... that's a start... once I get my new Plywood panels installed, then everything will fall into place...
John

Key2871

What a nightmare. Why do you use those terminals instead of punch blocks? That would be neater and easier.
KEN

HarrySmith

That is quite a rat's nest of wires! I can see why you want to redo it!
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

Babybearjs

Well, that part won't be redone. that's the inter-connect for the KTU's that has to say... its the rest of the system I'm redesigning!
John

Key2871

When I started with my system, a lot of it was cluttered and kind-of messy. Along with the mess came frequent problems.  So I re did everything, I actually sat down at my bench and designed what I had, what I wanted to end up with. I referred to the Bell manuals as well to get ideas on how best to lay out things so they flowed from start to finish.
I wish I had my old hard-drive up I'd take some pictures of what I ended up with, because it worked so well and if an issue came up, I could locate the problem so much faster than before.
Separate your internet from your key stuff more. If it were me, I'd get a couple mini blocks and use those in place of the terminal strips. Because those will always give you problems. Because I started off in much the same way.
To many issues can come up with them, over tighten a screw a cut a wire, or loose connections between the two, never ending trouble.
I have made my own blocks by removing the back and removing a row or two, so I can better figure areas in my system better. Color code using the plastic separators painted on either side. Things like that just to let me identity areas and connections.
KEN