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Mahogany Model 500 Refurbishment

Started by Dennis Markham, June 10, 2009, 10:53:29 PM

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Jester

I notice the area you're sanding is large enough that you can properly contour the area you're removing material from so the repair blends in unnoticeably with the rest of the body.  This may seem like a no brainer, but it's quite tempting to start at the scratch & work outward.  Cooler heads would pick a point away from the blemish & work to it, then past it-- as you have done here.
Stephen

Dennis Markham

#16
What invariably happens is that the area gets larger as you sand.  Because you can't stop the back and forth motion exactly at the edge of the surface so you have to go beyond it.  So I don't like to start out too large to repair a single blemish as I know the area will get bigger.  Good point.  In this case (no pun intended) surprisingly enough despite the depth of the original scratch the contour of the phone was not changed at all.  I was careful to note that as I used the 220 grit.  Looking at it from all angles I don't see any change in the appearance.  I won't really know for sure until it's polished and buffed.  I was careful not to flatten the width of the edge of the plastic on the circle---where the dial bezel sticks through.  We shall see.

Dan/Panther

This may not be important, but do you use some form of backing for the sandpaper, like foam, or a block etc. ?
D/P

The More People I meet, The More I Love, and MISS My Dog.  Dan Robinson

Dan/Panther

One other question, do you always start with 220, or do you judge starting point by flaw severity ?
D/P

The More People I meet, The More I Love, and MISS My Dog.  Dan Robinson

Dennis Markham

No, I rarely start with 220.  As you know that is very very rough grit.  I try and get away with the highest number possible.  I avoid sanding unless it just has to be done.  For nicks and scratches that won't polish out.  I like to start with 1,000 and then go 1,500 to 2,000...higher if you can find it.  But I only get out the big gun (220) for something deep like this one.

I do have a small soft piece of foam rubber that I sometimes use to do corners and edges.  It has a sharp edge and I can fold the paper around.   But mostly I use my hand/fingers.


Greg G.

Couple of questions, how do you polish the dial plate w/o rubbing off the numbers and letters?  Also, some recommendations for hand-held buffers.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

HobieSport

Quote from: Brinybay
Also, some recommendations for hand-held buffers.

Good question about a buffer.  What Riobi (or other buffer) and attachments/pads do folks recommend?  I don't have a bench wheel and would like to keep it simple.
-Matt

Dennis Markham

#22
If you're talking about the Model 500 dial bezels, the numbers won't rub off UNLESS you have one of the old ones from 1950 that were an overlay. There was some discussion on this topic...look at page 5:

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=327.60

Those made after 1950 are sandwiched plastic, meaning two pieces of the plastic sandwiched together.  So if you sand away the top layer the letters/numbers will still exist.

As far as a hand held buffer, I really like the Ryobi 6 Inch Orbital Buffer.  It is available at Home  Depot and possibly other places.

I see it's $22.97 now.  I bought my second one a few months ago and they were $19.99.  The terry cloth replacement pads are available at WalMart in the automotive section for about $4-5 for a 3 or 4 pack---can't remember which.  It's a great buffer and can get in small places, but doesn't do inside corners very well.  It spins fast enough to create some friction when combined with the polish (I like Novus2) really does a nice job.  The warming of the part on Bakelite caused by the friction of the turning pad also improves the shine.

(Edit: December 06, 2022 - The buffer is now $59.97 at Home Depot.  Inflation in action:  https://tinyurl.com/mwwp8a6y ).

Greg G.

Would buffing attachments for a standard electric drill work?  Your buffer is about the same price as some drills I saw at HD, plus I could use the drill for other stuff as well.
The idea that a four-year degree is the only path to worthwhile knowledge is insane.
- Mike Row
e

Dennis Markham

Brinybay, that I do not know.  I'm sure there are many methods that will work and some probably better.  I just discovered the Ryobi and have stuck with it.  You just have to be careful if there are too may RPM's it can burn the plastic.  I ruined a soft plastic dial face on the bench wheel once.  One has to be very careful with something moving too fast.

HobieSport

Thanks Dennis and Brinybay.  The Ryobi palm held buffer does look like just the ticket.  I would think that a drill with buffer attachment could be a a bit awkward to control and might also be harder to control the rpms.  I'll go with the Ryobi.  Shinny phones here we come. :)
-Matt

Dennis Markham

If I remember correctly, the Ryobi came with a buffer cloth that ties with two strings.  They ALWAYS come off.  The replacement terry cloth covers that I mentioned that are available at WalMart have elastic that hold them on to the buffing head.  I have washed mine over and over and they hold up pretty well.  They're pretty cheap considering the use you'll get out of them.

HobieSport

#27
That's great that we can wash and re-use the terry cloth elastic banded buffer pads a few times, Dennis.  I was wondering about that because as you well know even with just hand rubbing with Novus 2, even after a good long warm soap bath and a rinse and dry, the buffing cloths with the Novus can still take off lots of gunk during the polishing, especially on bakelite.  Can't wait to try the Ryobi. :)
-Matt

Dennis Markham

#28
I have finished the work on the top of the Mahogany cover.  The gouge is nowhere to be found.  I'm excited with how nice it turned out.  With lots of Novus2 and elbow grease it is finished.  I may perform an "operation" on a spot in the back but it's pretty good the way it is.  The handset is next and then the dial bezel.  Here's how it looks now.  I know photos aren't like being there in person but it's pretty close.  One can see their reflection in the shine.

Dennis Markham

With regard to the sandpaper...don't start at 220 unless you have to.  Try a mid-grit first.  If you can find higher grit than 2000 go up to it.  Novus2 is readily available on eBay in 8oz bottles.  I buy it in half gallon bottles that last me quite a while.  I use a lot of it.  I think I paid $28 for a half gallon bottle and I just refill my 8oz bottle when it's empty.