Is this a military WE 302? I think so...

[Alex G. Bell]

I have a bad receiver and transmitter. I've ordered some "new" replacements which should arrive tomorrow.
There's no loud clicks in the receiver when I activate the switchhook or dial.
And, removing the transmitter did nothing!
I still think there's a chance I've not wired it properly. I can't tell which wire corresponds to what position for the switchhook wiring.

If the phone is wired properly removing the transmitter unit will release the line and cause dial tone (no matter how loud it is) go away.  If it does not, there is a wiring problem and probably nothing wrong with the transmitter unit.  The handset cord could also be shorted from WH to BK.  That would also prevent the transmitter from working and prevent removing it from releasing the line.

Loud clicks in the receiver would be proof of a wiring error or shorted capacitor but lack of clicks does not necessarily mean there aren't any wiring errors.

I described earlier the physical positions of the 4 switchhook contacts and their corresponding lead colors.  There should be no uncertainty about its connections at at this point.

[shortrackskater]

I removed the hookswitch again so I could get a better idea of what goes where since the wires are severely discolored. The yellow is now brown...
Anyway... I made progress. I've checked the wiring I though was correct and had one lead of the capacitor in the wrong place.
Now the phone will hang up and release the line.
But the dial is not working. It dials very smoothly as well.
And the ringer isn't working. The RED ringer wire goes to GND, which shows to be connected to the YELLOW line wire. However the yellow line isn't connected since we use RED/GREEN, right?

[Alex G. Bell]

I removed the hookswitch again so I could get a better idea of what goes where since the wires are severely discolored. The yellow is now brown...
Anyway... I made progress. I've checked the wiring I though was correct and had one lead of the capacitor in the wrong place.
Now the phone will hang up and release the line.
But the dial is not working. It dials very smoothly as well.
And the ringer isn't working. The RED ringer wire goes to GND, which shows to be connected to the YELLOW line wire. However the yellow line isn't connected since we use RED/GREEN, right? Should I just run the red to a chassis ground?

The RD and YL line cord leads should go to one side of the line and GN to the other.

What happens when you try to dial?

[shortrackskater]

You're fast! Thank you.

UPDATE - the ringer works. I searched the site and found a similar problem. I connect ringer RED to L1 and now it rings.

When I try to dial it does not break the dial tone.
I was thinking I needed just red/green wires the line.
I'll connect the yellow, soon as I make a jumper for it! I chopped it off.
ANOTHER UPDATE:
Yellow line wire on one side eliminated the dial tone.
When I put the yellow with the green, the dial tone returned.
And I still get no dial function.

[Alex G. Bell]

You're fast! Thank you.

UPDATE - the ringer works. I searched the site and found a similar problem. I connect ringer RED to L1 and now it rings.

When I try to dial it does not break the dial tone.
I was thinking I needed just red/green wires the line.
I'll connect the yellow, soon as I make a jumper for it! I chopped it off.
ANOTHER UPDATE:
Yellow line wire on one side eliminated the dial tone.
When I put the yellow with the green, the dial tone returned.
And I still get no dial function.

You're welcome.  "Accidents happen sometimes"!  (If I'm at the PC and hear the notification of a new message)

You should never cut leads off.  Use electrical tape to insulate the spade tip or store it under an isolated terminal such as GND in a 302.

Only the RD and GN line cord leads are required for everything to work.  However normally, in a 302 the speech circuit operates between RD & GN and the ringer operates between YL and GN with the RD ringer lead on GND together with the YL line cord lead.  Therefore connecting YL and RD together at the wall parallels the ringer and speech circuits.  It's easier to do this than insulate unused lead ends and avoids the need to open the phone for different applications such as party lines with grounded ringing.

Does the brown two-lobe cam on the back of the dial spin when the dial is allowed to run down?

Do the contacts (1st & 2nd starting at the left) associated with the YL and BK terminal screws open and close while the dial is running down?

You said: "does not break dial tone".  What kind of line is it connected to?  A phone company copper line?  A cable TV or internet service provider telephone service using an ATA?

When you wind up the dial and let it run down is the dial tone there immediately once the dial stops moving or after a slight delay?

[shortrackskater]

 
This may take me awhile... I really am a beginner at this. My last two phones needed no wiring changes.
My line is a plain old telephone service. And my AE304 works and rings fine on the line.
I'll check some of what you asked now... will have to resume tomorrow afternoon. I have an early work day tomorrow.

I just read this on a phone with the same dial... I'm not sure if it applies to my phone.
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=14697.15

[shortrackskater]

The lobe spins when the dial runs down.
The contacts at YL and BK do spin when the dial runs down.
And there is a dial tone immediately when the dial runs down.

[Alex G. Bell]

The lobe spins when the dial runs down.
The contacts at YL and BK do spin when the dial runs down.
And there is a dial tone immediately when the dial runs down.

Sorry if I've asked this before but changes have been made and it's a long thread:

Based on what you've said so far, it seems likely there is a wiring error somewhere. 

When you operate and release the switchhook or the dial, are there any loud clicks in the receiver?

Is there sidetone?  Blow in the transmitter.  You should hear it in the receiver over the dial tone.  This is sidetone.

If you unscrew the transmitter cap and remove the transmitter unit you should hear dial tone in the receiver get a little louder for a second and then stop.  Does it?

Another possibility is that the dial is severely misadjusted so that the pulse contacts do not open long enough during each pulse for the pulse to be recognized.

Do you have an analog meter with a 100mADC or 48VDC range or thereabouts?  Another way to analyze dial performance is using the MIKE input on a PC with the free Audacity program.  Effectively you can use the PC as a storage oscilloscope to determine the duration of each dial pulse.  If none of the other symptoms described above are present and the only remaining possibility is pulse duration we will need to do this.

[TelePlay]

Can you take and post close up pictures of the base, the dial and the hook switch as your phone is now wired before making any more changes.

Seeing what you have may make it easier for members to help you figure out if there is and what the wiring error may be.

[shortrackskater]

Alex G. Bell -
No loud clicks in the receiver when I operate switch-hook or dial.
Yes there is side tone. Weak but works. I have replacement transmitter and receiver on the way.
I'm not home yet but when I last removed the transmitter there was no change... just dial tone. I'll check that soon as I get in.

TelePlay -
Pictures on the way!
Here they are.
Note - there's two white wires going to the  handset - I'm not sure why but both are connected to the same terminal in the handset. I just left that alone.

[rdelius]

One thing I see is your dial impulse cam is rotated about 90 degrees from where it  should be.Both white wires will be tied togather on both ends,only one is needed but extra insurance against breakage.Keep wires away from the dial springsand look for shorts between the screw terminals

[poplar1]

There appear to be 4 wires on the L1 double terminal.
Should be only 3:
Red line cord wire
Red ringer wire
Red-slate jumper wire to dial

[poplar1]

The black handset wire and the black capacitor wire should go either to the same screw terminal on the dial, or to each end of the metal strap. It looks like the black capacitor wire may be on the screw that Alex designated as "R" on the dial. Red-slate wire from L1/should go to the "R" equivalent terminal on the dial.

[HarrySmith]

There are 3 wires on the back of the dial that appear to be very close, maybe touching and causing a short. They also appear to be coated with some kind of grease that may be conducting electricity and causing a short.
See attached picture. They are circled in red. One other test I have used for 302 diagnosis is to try it with out tightening the body & base. Just lay the body on the base and try it that way or even leave them apart and try it.

[shortrackskater]

 Thank you
That  glob is some sort of waterproofing they put on. It's nonconductive.
I had the wire from L1 looped back to itself! Oops.
I plug the phone in and the dial still does not work and I cannot release the line now.  I put it back the way I had it before, I thought, and it still won't release the line! I think I'm losing my mind.