202 w/ 684 Subset Prodject - Having Troubles

[WesternElectricBen]

Hello everybody,

I've been working on this 202 with a 684 subset. I have had a hard time getting it to work, all it does right now is ring when I test it, even when the swtichhook is not pushed down. It does not give dial tone nor does not dial out. I wired it like the diagram on the forum here: http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=784.150. Although, it still has issues. I'm puzzled, maybe some new eyes would have an idea what to do.

Ben

[poplar1]

It appears to be wired correctly, but there is a missing contact spring on the switch hook. It would be the top contact associated with the Y terminal. On the switch hook, Y and BK make first, then GN and W. If there is no continuity between BK and Y, then the phone will continue to ring even when the 202 is off-hook.

[WesternElectricBen]

Thank you, David.

In installed a new spring as shown in your picture. When I hold a screwdriver between the contacts the phone will ring and when I pull it off, it will not. (simulating the hookswitch.) Although, the cradle does not do anything. Could you please picture a side profile? Also, it does not get dial tone or dial out.

Thank you for your help,
Ben

[poplar1]

So you know the handset and cord are OK? If so, then check continuity (with plunger not pushed down) from W on dial to GN on 101A, and from BK on dial to L2-Y on induction coil, and R on dial to R on induction coil.

Or, start by connecting the handset directly to the induction coil:  Receiver (white) to GN on ind. coil, transmitter (black) to L2-Y, common (red) to R on ind. coil, then, if you have dial tone, move one handset lead at a time:
White receiver (from GN on induction coil)  to GN on s/h, if OK, move it to W on s/h, if OK to BB on dial, if OK to W on dial.
Red common (from R on induction coil) to R on dial.
Black transmitter (from L2-Y) to BK switch hook, if OK to Y on switch hook, if OK to Y on dial, if OK to BK on dial.

That's a photo I'd saved on my hard drive, so I don't have a side view. But the switch hook contacts are like those in a 302: two sets of make contacts.

[WesternElectricBen]

Alright, I used the first method to hook it up. I now have dial tone, (quiet dial tone.) It no longer rings and still does not dial out.

I'm guessing that switchook is wrong.

Ben

[poplar1]

The silver-colored contact spring (BK)--the one that was on top before you added the Y contact spring-- is bent down too far. It must connect to the top contact when you are off-hook, and should never touch the bottom (W and GN) contacts.

[poplar1]

Can someone post a photo of the side of D-1 contacts?
Here is a 302, showing the same separation of the two sets of contacts that the D-1 should have:

[unbeldi]

This is what the 1935 catalog has to say about that:

[WesternElectricBen]

Okay, same symptoms as before. I fixed I according to unbeldi's picture.

In the first pic it shows the switch depressed the second it is free.

Thank you,
Ben

[unbeldi]

Okay, same symptoms as before. I fixed I according to unbeldi's picture.

In the first pic it shows the switch depressed the second it is free.

Thank you,
Ben

Looking at these last pictures, it seems that your hookswitch springs are still not in order.
The two phenol plates each should lift their respective set of split-springs up, by our angle of view (push them down in reality).

I seem to see that one of them, the lower one from our view, is lifting only one half of the contact, i.e. one finger of the fork.

[poplar1]

Did you disassemble the contact springs at some point? It's possible that there is a short between the two halves. I would completely remove all four wires from the switch hook and just bypass it by connecting the green mtg. cord conductor to BB , and the yellow mtg. cord  conductor to Y on the dial.

[WesternElectricBen]

Did you disassemble the contact springs at some point? It's possible that there is a short between the two halves. I would completely remove all four wires from the switch hook and just bypass it by connecting the green mtg. cord conductor to BB , and the yellow mtg. cord  conductor to Y on the dial.

Okay, it now dials out. But, will not ring and I do not hear dial tone. So, is it safe to assume the switchook needs repair?

Ben

[unbeldi]

Did you disassemble the contact springs at some point? It's possible that there is a short between the two halves. I would completely remove all four wires from the switch hook and just bypass it by connecting the green mtg. cord conductor to BB , and the yellow mtg. cord  conductor to Y on the dial.

Okay, it now dials out. But, will not ring and I do not hear dial tone. So, is it safe to assume the switchook needs repair?

Ben

From the looks in the picture with the fork being split, that is a certainty.

Do you have an ohmmeter ?  Without any wires connected and the plunger depressed (on-hook) there should be no conduction between any of the four terminals. When off-hook, the two adjacent pairs should conduct.

If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can use a small lamp bulb and a battery to test the switches, for example a 2012A transformer and a Princess set. Simply use one lead from the transformer and the same connection to the telephone as your test leads.

[WesternElectricBen]

Alright, I hooked up the multimeter and when I depressed the switch hook there was not conduction. And when I tested the top spring it measured 2.2 in the 200 scale. So, the switchook is working?

Ben

[poplar1]

It's not supposed to ring now with the switch hook bypassed,  because you have simulated an off-hook condition, as if you had picked up the handset to answer or to make a call.

Did you make sure there is no continuity between any of the four switch contacts, as unbeldi suggested, when there are no wires connected to the switch terminals and when the plunger is pushed down? Then, when you release the plunger, you are measuring ~ 0 Ohms  between GN and W, and also ~0 between Y and BK, but infinite between W and BK?

I would still go back to disconnecting everything and starting with the handset (no mounting cord) connected to GN R and L2-Y on the induction coil. You should then hear dial tone and hear yourself if you talk into the transmitter. But that's just the way I do it.