AE 40 Does Not break Dial Tone

[Doug Rose]

I found an AE 40 awhile back and started to get it in working order. Everything is working except I can't break DT. I did not rewire the dial at all, just the way I found it. Any suggestions? Any help is greatly appreciated.

On a side note, have you ever seen an AE40 with a felt bottom cover? The AE40s I have seen have the rubber gasket around them. I am not fluent in AE, so maybe I just haven't seen enough of them. It looks to be factory or at least very professionally done....thanks...Doug

[Jim Stettler]

Hi Doug,
I used to have one with the felt cover.
It was black felt and appeared to be factory die cut felt (holes for screws ect). Mine had a paper label attatched to the felt.

I asked about it on the listserver and discovered that their are a number of them out there. Not real common,but not really scarce.I don't think it was determined if they were factory bases or from a rebuilder.

They seem more factory to me, I think a rebuilder  would use the rubber rings.

Perhaps there was a rubber shortage and rubber was very high or unavaliable.


Jim

[Doug Rose]

Hi Doug,
I used to have one with the felt cover.
It was black felt and appeared to be factory die cut felt (holes for screws ect). Mine had a paper label attatched to the felt.

I asked about it on the listserver and discovered that their are a number of them out there. Not real common,but not really scarce.I don't think it was determined if they were factory bases or from a rebuilder.

They seem more factory to me, I think a rebuilder  would use the rubber rings.

Perhaps there was a rubber shortage and rubber was very high or unavaliable.


Jim

thx Jim....real cool looking. If i can get it to break DT, I'll clean it up.....Doug

[Wallphone]

Doug,
Try swapping the dial pulse wires with each other and see what happens. And if that isn't it, put them back to where they were and swap the two shunt wires with each other. I had a problem like that on an AE 50 and IIRC, the solution was in those wires. And make sure all the soldered connections are good too. It's strange how a wire that isn't supposed to move can break loose.
Good luck, Doug

[Doug Rose]

I thought I posted pictures with this...sorry

Doug in the pictures below, what two wires should I swap?....thanks....Other Doug

[stub]

 Kidphone ,
                Doug , Here is a pic of my AE-40. I don't see the extra capacitor in yours? I guess it's time to chase some wires!!  Good luck.   stub

[AE_Collector]

There is also a capacitor mounted to the baseplate. SOme 40's have the two seperate capacitors while others have both capacitors in a single gray case on the baseplate. CHeck to see if there are two or four wires on the baseplate capacitor.

As for the felt covered bottom on a few AE40's, I too suspect it was war measures as rubber was almost impossible to get during the war.

An article in a war era BC Telephone employee magazine showed how they were refurbing old two piece take out sets to put them into service again since phones were very hard to get. The article made a point that the hardest part to get to refurb them was the little tiny rubber thing on the hook switch that pushes against the spring pile up!

Terry

[stub]

Terry,
          Mine has both . On the base 4 terminals and this one on the side also.   stub

[Doug Rose]

Terry....you were right, capacitor next to the ringer. What do I do?....thanks...Doug

[stub]

Terry,
          I guess one side of the base cap. was bad on mine, so they put this 1mfd. on the side for the ringer.          stub

[Wallphone]

Looking at the wiring diagram in the TCI Library it looks like your dial is wired correctly. I was talking about swapping the two wires on the left in your 2nd pic (pulse). Those wires are Red, & Red/White. Then I was talking about the two wires on the right (shunt)which are Red and Orange. I have seen two different ways to wire the dial in an AE 50 color wise, and the AE 50 is basically the same as an AE40. It won't hurt to try it, you never know.

[AE_Collector]

Terry,
         I guess one side of the base cap. was bad on mine, so they put this 1mfd. on the side for the ringer.          stub

Now there is something that hadn't occured to me before. If the ringer gets changed to a different frequency or upgraded to a SL, the capacitor needs to change as well. Maybe that would lead to adding the side capacitor in some situations? So are there any two wires connected to your 4 terminal base capacitor Stub?

Doug: you have a frequency ringer there (in case you can't get it to ring once you get the dial working).
Wind the dial up and then look at the back of the dial while you slowly let it wind down. Do you see the pulsing contacts being opened and closed by the oval shaped cam? Make sure they are opening far enough to break the connection between the two contacts.

Terry

[stub]

Terry,  The base capacitor on mine goes to the talk side of phone( # 3 on induction coil and the other end goes to T and the 1mfd. goes to ringer.   The original cap has 4 terminals ( 2 sections ) . Looks like someone( not me) bypassed one side of the base cap. Mine works fine .    stub

[AE_Collector]

Nice drawing Stub! Is that drawing from the phone in question? Looks like it would have been a 66 cycle ringer according to the markings on the drawing.

I wonder if SL ringer 40's might have had the 2 in 1 capacitor and frequency ringer 40's maybe had the 2 seperate capacitors allowing the capacitor to easily be changed out if the ringer changed.

If so, your 40 might have been a SL that was converted to a freq ringer in the field? Just guessing here.

Terry

[stub]

Terry,
          Doug's drawing is on his base, folded , 5 pic from top    stub